Those who have done a Millenia or ZE alternator swap...
- jschrauwen
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I believe the ZE/Millennia alt is 110 or 120 amp. Fuses are not going to blow unless the load on the circuit that the fuse is protecting exceeds the fuse lmit. That said there can be as much as 200 amps going to any fused circuit but if the load exceeds that fuses limit it will blow. It doesn't matter what available amps were there to begin with. The other consideration of course is true Barry. You can't exceed the amperage rating of the wire concerned either. Having a 200 amp output alt shouldn't affect anything downstrem unless it was faulty in the first place. It in no way means that your sending 200 amps anywhere but allows the availability of more loads without the extra stress.
'92 GS-ZE - sold, '95 GS - sold, '02 Protege LX - Daughter, '00 Audi A4 2.8 QTip, Ducati TT2

90 JDM RHD 300ZX TT - 572.1 RWHP | 590.0 RWTQ | 21 PSI | Pump gas

90 JDM RHD 300ZX TT - 572.1 RWHP | 590.0 RWTQ | 21 PSI | Pump gas
I swapped in the 110amp alt with my ZE swap and it is definately a 12V signal going to the IG terminal. I had it verified by an auto electrician first just to be sure. I used the 12V ignition signal going to the disty (the orange wire from memory?) just tapped the wire and then trailed it along the loom going to the alternator, looks nice and neat that way. It's been running fine and charging now for about 3 months so i guess its right. The only down side is the headlights no longer dim with the bass....
- MX3 GSR for dummies
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Go with the 12V...My manual confirms this. And tapping into the disty line....isn't that like free energy!!!! To be safe, I would run a line with a in-line fuse. Go with the suggestion from Pauli_au or run an independant line. Just run it with the wires that lead across your rad support existing and tap the battery. Use a 14awg T-90.
If at first you don't succeed....it never happened
94 mx3 GS w/ KLZE, KL31 ECU, clutchmaster stage 3, cross drilled rotors, Custom ram air intake, Custom exhaust, Toyo tires, 250LPH fuel pump, Modified Distributor, Upgraded Wiring etc, external HEI, Full Body Drift kit and freshly painted Grey. Interior neon accents and much more in progress
94 mx3 GS w/ KLZE, KL31 ECU, clutchmaster stage 3, cross drilled rotors, Custom ram air intake, Custom exhaust, Toyo tires, 250LPH fuel pump, Modified Distributor, Upgraded Wiring etc, external HEI, Full Body Drift kit and freshly painted Grey. Interior neon accents and much more in progress
- MX3 GSR for dummies
- Regular Member
- Posts: 466
- Joined: October 28th, 2005, 9:00 am
- Location: GHETTOVALE, Ontario
Definately change that hook up. Every time you use the window, who knows how that can effect your power consumption. Go with the battery...the wiring will be far away from the heat of your block, and you already should have wires leading across your rad support plus inline fuses are cheap but keep them away from heat too...intall just after batt/drivers side....Good luck with the pully issues....been there, done that!
If at first you don't succeed....it never happened
94 mx3 GS w/ KLZE, KL31 ECU, clutchmaster stage 3, cross drilled rotors, Custom ram air intake, Custom exhaust, Toyo tires, 250LPH fuel pump, Modified Distributor, Upgraded Wiring etc, external HEI, Full Body Drift kit and freshly painted Grey. Interior neon accents and much more in progress
94 mx3 GS w/ KLZE, KL31 ECU, clutchmaster stage 3, cross drilled rotors, Custom ram air intake, Custom exhaust, Toyo tires, 250LPH fuel pump, Modified Distributor, Upgraded Wiring etc, external HEI, Full Body Drift kit and freshly painted Grey. Interior neon accents and much more in progress