KLDE SWAP NO START

mx32nerDOTcom · Post by **mx32nerDOTcom** » October 20th, 2005, 5:29 pm

I got everything put back together in the car, new klde motor from a 97 626, i hit the key and it just turns over and over and over...It gets gas, it gets spark, it may be out of time i guess, I changed the timing belt and put all 3 marks as close to where they go as I could, is there anything I could check/test to see if it's for sure out of time, and adjusting the belt requires taking the motor back out correct? cause it's a small space to try to work in... is there anything I could do with the disty to make it right? ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!

Reaver19 · Post by **Reaver19** » October 20th, 2005, 5:59 pm

Pull the spark plugs out and see if any of them are drenched in gasoline, if they are then the car is flooded. Just so you know, everytime you turn the ignition, it shoots gasoline into the engine, because the car is fuel injected. If the plugs are drenched in gasoline then the car is most likely flooded with gas. If your getting the right amount of gas, and not too much, then you might not be getting enough oxygen, or too much... Did you change the VAF over from the stock one to the correct one for the KLDE? (Should have a model # of KL02 on it).

Edit: one other thing, if you adjust the timing without putting the car into diagonstic mode, it does nothing, so put the car into diagnostic mode: take a paper clip, bend it so that it looks like a U shape, flip it upside down, and put it inside the diagnostic box touching the TEN and GRD pins, one is on the left and one is almost the top right, the diagram of it should be on the flipside of the lid to the diagnostic box. The other thing you can adjust is the screw on top of the intake the further it goes down the more fuel mixed into the gas/oxygen mixture, I'm pretty sure the default position is 1.5 twists up from the bottom. If you get the car going and do adjust it, just so your aware, when you do pull the pin from the diagnostic box out, once you do this, in theory the car should idle another 100-200rpms above when you just had it set at, so set it slightly lower than what you really want it at. Hope this helps.

ChrisG3 · Post by **ChrisG3** » October 20th, 2005, 6:36 pm

You may have to put in the old V6's distributor. I had to with my KLZE swap. Just a thought.

Chris

mx32nerDOTcom · Post by **mx32nerDOTcom** » October 20th, 2005, 6:38 pm

Doesnt the car have to start to be in diagnostic mode, mine won't even start...that's where Im at right now.., I have changed the VAF to KL02, so that's right, but still nothing...but does it have to start to be in dianostic mode?

mazdababe · Post by **mazdababe** » October 20th, 2005, 7:02 pm

i keep reading in these forums"floodin, flooding,"...is every one here running a carbuator?.....excese flooding dosent happen in in fuel injected cars,,,,,u have a timing problem...even if the time belt is out on or two teeth....would amke bit problems..."close as u can"
isint good enough recheck all your timing marks,make sure ther r nooo vacuum leaks...the kl motors dont like them....also....to be in diag mode...key on ....engine off is all u need...u woud get any codes till u run it...

Reaver19 · Post by **Reaver19** » October 20th, 2005, 9:22 pm

Car does not have to be running in order to go into Diagnostic mode, just needs battery power. Open up the hood, open up the diagnostic box, bend the paper clip into a U shape, put one end down into the TEN box, one into the GRD box, leave it in there, get into the car, turn the ignition so that the CEL (check engine light) turns on, do not turn it far enough that the engine starts to turn over, just have it far enough that you can see the CEL light is on, along with the other lights (seatbelt, battery, oil; though these do not need to come on just giving you an idea). You'll know you did it right, if, within 20 seconds the CEL starts to flash, be patient, some are long flashes and slow flashes...now the car is in Diagnostic mode. Now that the car is in diagnostic mode, you can adjust the screw on top of the intake manifold....or you can adjust the timing, or you can do both, I suggest using a timing light for timing the car, though it's possible to manually do it.

mx32nerDOTcom · Post by **mx32nerDOTcom** » October 21st, 2005, 12:29 am

And to redo the timing belt, it's definately easier to pull the motor out to do this correct? i think doing it while in the engine bay is pretty impossible really...and...if it is one or two teeth off, is there any way to save it without redoing the timing belt? and also...please any ideas will help me, i really do NOT want to have to pull the motor again, and if i do, is there any tricks to make SURE ITS ON RIGHT and not off by any amount of teeth (lol)? one last thing, when doing the timing marks for the cam gears, why is it so hard to keep it in place, because once you go so far, it just turns by itself like a half a turn, there any way to avoid that..

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP MX3ERS

Macen · Post by **Macen** » October 21st, 2005, 4:22 am

Have you added som more ground points? That helped me get my KL-DE engine started. I had fuel and spark, but it didn't want to start.

mx32nerDOTcom · Post by **mx32nerDOTcom** » October 21st, 2005, 8:01 am

No I haven't, at first it wouldnt do anything but click, and my stainless steel clutch line was getting hot and smoking, so I grounded the tranny, and that got it to at least crank over and everything, where should I add these ground points, and what gauge wire should I use?

Macen · Post by **Macen** » October 21st, 2005, 8:37 am

I added 3-4 ground points around the engine.

vozaday2000 · Post by **vozaday2000** » October 21st, 2005, 9:16 am

just go out and buy some 8 guage wire and hook one up to the distributor bolts (where it mounts to the engine), then hook more ground wire to each valve cover, and to the intake manifold. see if that helps, if not then hook some up to the block.

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » October 21st, 2005, 2:21 pm

I put one ground to each head. One is between a disty bolt and the head, the other straight to the rear head. Another to the short block. Another to the tranny casing. Another to the intake manifold. Remember to take a piece of medium grit sand paper to the mounting point first to get a nice clean, corrosion free mounting point. And make sure all the other grounds that are part of the harness are hooked up to. You can throw out old ground straps straight to the chassis once you get all the other grounding points taken care of, but there are a few smaller ones coming right out of the harness that you should always hook up. Like the one that goes to the intake manifold.

mx32nerDOTcom · Post by **mx32nerDOTcom** » October 22nd, 2005, 6:54 pm

OK, quick question to all the DE swap gods, if you don't hook up any vaccums from the intake and stuff, will that make the car not start or is there something else wrong with the car? I did change the timing belt, and used the K8 disty for it, the timing marks were all right and everything, and i took a spark plug out, it had gas on it, so im flooded...is there any way to get rid of the gas that's in the cylinders when the damn thing won't start? please any help will help me out, i need to get this thing running...

Here is exactly what it does, it'll turn over a few times, then it'll like...turn over once REALLY slow, then it'll turn over a few times and keep doing the same thing over and over....

Reaver19 · Post by **Reaver19** » October 22nd, 2005, 9:13 pm

Take all the plugs out and set them aside, leave the rubber attachments out as well, turn the car over. This will blow some of the gas out, the other thing I did to get gasoline out of the car was take an air compressor, and just blow air down in there one cylinder at a time. I highly suggest, you take some of the excess fuel you had on the spark plugs and wipe it off onto a flap smooth, non flammable surface, like concrete, and throw a match on it, see how well it burns. I personally just had a problem where I had everything what it should be, timing, right amount of fuel, oxygen, etc, and the problem was that the fuel was bad. So check to make sure the fuel is good, my gas tank either had some rust in it, had some water in it, the gas station gave me bad gas, or a combination of these. Luckily, if you find out your gas is bad, there is a plug on the bottom of the tank (just a bolt) so you can jack the back up and drain it out easily like that. If the fuel is good, you checked to see that your getting spark, then that basically leaves it to oxygen. Check to see that all of your vacuum lines are TIGHT, air tight. If everything I've said so far doesn't solve your problem, put the car into diagnostic mode (let me know if you need to know how to do this) and then take the screw on top of the intake manifold (it has a specific name but I can't think of it, you know what it is

) the default position is that the screw is all the way screwed down in, minus 1.5 turns upwards. Let me know if any of this works. If you can't get it to work after all of this, there is a possiblity I could drive down to Pittsburgh tomorrow or next weekend to help you, pretty sure it's an hour and a half south of me.

P.S. I am by no means a DE swap God, but I just got done doing it to my 93' Mx-3, so everything is fresh in my mind, I encountered quite a few problems with it, not because we did a bad job on it, but some unexpected things happened. Fortunately, as a result, I've now got some experience in many problems relating to the DE swap

Oh yeah, it's also important that your battery is operating at full power to turn the car over when you don't have the spark plugs and wires into the car in order to blow out the excess gasoline. Be careful when you are putting the spark plugs back in to let them down in easily and gently.

mx32nerDOTcom · Post by **mx32nerDOTcom** » October 22nd, 2005, 10:48 pm

So if all of the vaccum lines are not hooked up at all, that could make the engine not fire and not start...because I havent hooked up all of the vaccum lines yet because i just wanted to get it to fire...let me know...and is there any way I could call you or do you have aol or anything like that...thanks for all the help so far.

MX-3.com

KLDE SWAP NO START

KLDE SWAP PROBLEMS, HELP PLEASE

KLDE SWAP NO START