Finaly, I bought an mx-3

Vanished · Post by **Vanished** » August 30th, 2005, 5:00 am

Oh yah about that...I'm takin her in tomoro morning to get everything looked at. W/e needs to be replaced, I'll buy the parts, and install them myself or with the help of my buddy's trusty dad (he's the main man in the machanics in Kelsey (SIAST, technical institution kinda thing)

I've checked the oil, it was changed in may by the owner, the radiator fluid is good to go, I replaced all the spark plugs (the old ones were corrodid to s--- and the electrode was very low and flat), replaced the PVC valve, distributer cap and rotor. And windsheild wipers. And cleaned everything. And driven it. Alot.

Anything else I should do myself before I take it in to get everything checked over at the shop?

jschrauwen · Post by **jschrauwen** » August 30th, 2005, 9:12 pm

Vanished wrote:Oh yah about that...I'm takin her in tomoro morning to get everything looked at. W/e needs to be replaced, I'll buy the parts, and install them myself or with the help of my buddy's trusty dad (he's the main man in the machanics in Kelsey (SIAST, technical institution kinda thing)
I've checked the oil, it was changed in may by the owner, the radiator fluid is good to go, I replaced all the spark plugs (the old ones were corrodid to shat and the electrode was very low and flat), replaced the PVC valve, distributer cap and rotor. And windsheild wipers. And cleaned everything. And driven it. Alot.
Anything else I should do myself before I take it in to get everything checked over at the shop?

Woah woah tabernack S T. Oil changed in May, than probably running 2 months behind on last oil change. Older engines are going to need more frequent oil changes if you want to make it last. "Old spark plugs were corroded"??? This just keeps getting better all of the time. If the previous owner sold you a car that smokes, is mucho behind in oil changes, has corroded plugs .... you see where i'm going with this. And you know what, I really think the coolant is probably shat too. Whats it look like inside the coolant reservoir? Narly?, grungy?, if so, you've got a pile of good old basic shat to take care of. There's too many signs heree to indicate that this was not taken very good care of. You want some safe reliable driving .....
Change timing belt and tensioner - while your at it, change water pump. Of course after that, flush and fill coolant. Flush and fill power steering. Install new thermostat. Replace fuel filter, and air filter. Suspect TB and intake are god awfull as well as VAF. Clean intake tract and and use TB cleaner in TB. Have injectors cleaned out. Verify condition of plug wires and replace if necessary. I haven't ecen gotten to the suspension and brakes yet. Was this thing certified? If not there's probably a good reason why it wasn't. Not that I've already burst your bubble, because you had such high hopes for this car, but you've got a shatload of things to get taken care of - WHY - cause the previous owner obviously neglected it. Probably best to know know before spending mucho bucks for possibly nothing. Get the suspension a serious going over as well as the brakes. I imagine that if you don't cover all of the things that I've mentioned and try to cut corners because you can't afford it right now, you may end up paying dearly this winter. Saskatoon winters are no picnic and if the MX isn't 100% it'll cost you more in the long run. It would be more ecnomical to have almost everything done at once since certain items would be more costly if not combined with other servicing items. Not such great news I'm affraid, and hope the QUALITY LICENSED MECHANIC that you choose performs a top notch job and hopefully renders a much better prognosis. Good luck!!!

mx-3north · Post by **mx-3north** » August 30th, 2005, 11:47 pm

good for you I hope you really enjoy it. As far as gas mileage goes I got 42 mpg on my trip from Latchford to Mississauga and back for the July 3rd meet.

Vanished · Post by **Vanished** » August 31st, 2005, 1:51 am

wow that was alot to suck in but very very usefull. You know your stuff and your posts are always amazing. I'll get started on some of the things you said straite away. Thanks again.

Vanished · Post by **Vanished** » August 31st, 2005, 8:14 pm

Ok I took her in to the machanic to get everything checked out. I dont' think the previouse owner acculy certified it because both frame rails are flattened, and that would defantly not pass inspection. Anyway heres the list, tell me what you think.

Stiff shifter
Oil pressure switch is leaking noticiably
Rack and pinnion sterring gear is leaking (noticable) at driver side bellows boot
muffler is leaking and splitting (has tried to repair is with muffler cement)
left outer cv boot is deeply cracked
left rear disc brake caliper is sticking
left rear strut is leaking
engine rad cap and plastic houseing is cracked
upper radiator hose swelled up under pressure
blockheater needs a new cord end

so yah I'm getting things started tonight, oil change, oil filter, fuel filter, the pressure switch, rad cap housing, rad cap...see how much else i get done we shall see.

jschrauwen · Post by **jschrauwen** » August 31st, 2005, 9:29 pm

Oh boy, that really sucks. Sounds like you're staying pretty optimistic about it all - good for you!!! Sounds like you got a bit of work ahead of you. Keep us up to date and good luck!!

Vanished · Post by **Vanished** » September 1st, 2005, 1:00 am

hey question, were does the Oil Pressure Switch go? Does it plug into the oil pan? I'm gonna put it in when I do the oil tomoro (I was to buisy tonight) but i have never heard of it and dont' know were it goes.

andy · Post by **andy** » September 1st, 2005, 7:42 am

oil pressure switch= standing in front of the car, the oil pr.sw. is on the left side of the engine block just above and a little to the left of the oil filter. Unless the radiator is out of the car its going to be easier to get to it from under the car.

I would recomend not waiting to long to replace the CV boots if your going to repack the grease and throw another boot on. If your planning on replacing the shaft assemblies with rebuilts then theres not as of a rush.

next I would take care of that seizing brake caliper. I have never had good luck trying to r&r them myself. You'd be better off just replacing it and the pads at the same time. You might also need a new disc on the the side with the bad caliper, have it checked (mic'ed) if in doubt.

good luck and feel free to ask more questions.

Andy P. 93 GS

Vanished · Post by **Vanished** » September 1st, 2005, 4:49 pm

thanks bro. Part Source doesnt' seem to have any oil pr.sw's i dunno why. They said they're gonna try and track one down for me. Thanks for the tip tho , and i'll have some more questions to come for sure.