Does anyone have a wideband installed?

Rick Johnson · Post by **Rick Johnson** » August 26th, 2005, 8:25 pm

I have one and I would like to compare A/Fr's with someone else....

jschrauwen · Post by **jschrauwen** » August 26th, 2005, 8:49 pm

Not sure what that is??? Someone at my last meet mentioned that I should get one too but was too embarrassed to ask what it was.

MX-3 Money · Post by **MX-3 Money** » August 26th, 2005, 9:10 pm

jschrauwen wrote:Not sure what that is??? Someone at my last meet mentioned that I should get one too but was too embarrassed to ask what it was.

fieromx3 · Post by **fieromx3** » August 26th, 2005, 11:34 pm

a wideband is a an air/fuel ratio gauge that tells you if u r runnin rich/lean or stoich throughout the whole power band and uses ur o2 sensor for measuring ur a/f(obviously). unlike the normal narrow band gauge u pick up for 70 bucks the wideband tells u exactly what ur a/f ratio instead of just bouncin back and forth from lean to rich like on the narrow band. with the aid of a a/f controller u can udjust ur a/f using the wideband gauge. this is a perfect tool if u got a stand alone engine management. the normal narrow band costs anywhere from 60-150 bucks and the wideband costs 400-600bucks on average. a good wideband is available from aem. i hope i have this all right and i also hope someone adds on to this and makes the wording more clear but hopefully u get the general idea

WTF · Post by **WTF** » August 27th, 2005, 11:32 pm

Is it the same as the infamous Rich and Lean, that piece of crap?

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » August 27th, 2005, 11:51 pm

Fiero is right on. However, a EGT (exhaust gas temp) guage will work just as well and doesn't cost that much. The more rich your car runs the cooler the exhaust temps will be and visa versa. So all you would need to know is what is the perfect temp. (that I don't know yet)

Rick Johnson · Post by **Rick Johnson** » August 28th, 2005, 12:21 am

Just to clarify on fiero's post, A wideband cannot use your stock O2 sensor(s) you need a wideband 02 sensor. Most cars come with a narrow band as far as I know.

Is no one running a wideband here?

hppwdn · Post by **hppwdn** » August 28th, 2005, 7:57 am

Rick Johnson wrote:Just to clarify on fiero's post, A wideband cannot use your stock O2 sensor(s) you need a wideband 02 sensor. Most cars come with a narrow band as far as I know.

Is no one running a wideband here?

Correct,

A narrowband sends different voltages then a wideband. You need a wideband controller for your wideband typically. All can be picked up for under $400 with smart shopping.

A wideband is great for these cars once you swap a ZE and run a stand alone. With a ZE ECU I don't see it as a must have. That doesn't offer the tunability of a stand alone.

I should be putting one in within a few months. I'm trying to tune every bit of power out of the motor before I add mods to it. Kinda like a fun little Megasquirt project.

kiwi_MX3 · Post by **kiwi_MX3** » August 28th, 2005, 8:11 am

I do run a wide band on the 944, as im running basicly
a formula 3 motor in it.

Only good if you are running stand alone ECU for tunning.
else a expensize toy thats all.

EGT tell you only when your turbo donk is about to blow thats all.

nope-mx3 · Post by **nope-mx3** » August 28th, 2005, 12:19 pm

a narrowband o2 sensor uses a signal between 0-1 volt, the wideband uses between 0-5 volt.

Also, you can get a _good_ wideband sensor with controller for $199, the innovative LC-1 (or LM-1), they also have a deal wich includes a gauge, for $349.

If you have a standalone, you only need the $199 one, and that`s what I`m gonna get for my Megasquirt. I`ll do all logging etc via the MS and a laptop.

Nice to save $150 when it`s not actually needed

I believe that the "ideal" figure for wideband is 14.7 for gasoline engines.
It`s lots of info on this on http://www.megasquirt.info

nope-mx3

babyblueMX3 · Post by **babyblueMX3** » August 28th, 2005, 2:28 pm

I run the aem wideband uego style controller.
I can't really compre my a/f to yours since we have different set ups.
I'm monitoring it through megasquirt

Rick Johnson · Post by **Rick Johnson** » August 28th, 2005, 9:15 pm

Well the reason why I want to compare, after months of watching that damn needle I have come to the conclusion that the K-series engines run way to rich from the factory. I had a WB on the K8 for months and now have it on the ZE, Both motors are hitting 11/11.5-1 at WOT, and for a N/A setup that is to rich....It should be more like 13/13.5-1, Theres definitely gains to be made here...

Or maybe it's my O2 sensors, but as far as I know those don't make a lick of difference at WOT.

Or my WB is screwed, but I highly doubt that I read a solid 14.7 at idle.... And it's a pretty high end unit, full datalogging, pre programmable outputs etc etc, If only I had a laptop to fully utilize it.....

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » August 28th, 2005, 9:21 pm

Yes, it runs rich from the factory. That's why when people get AFPR's they turn the fuel pressure DOWN to make more power, not up.

ScooterBovine · Post by **ScooterBovine** » August 28th, 2005, 11:05 pm

I would assume that the mentality is "better rich than lean"?

kiwi_MX3 · Post by **kiwi_MX3** » August 29th, 2005, 12:20 am

Optimum A/f for max Hp is 12.5
Optimum A/f for comsumpion is 16.

This is for most motors.

The K Serise do run very rich from the factory a factor of
built in protection.