which tranny is better?
which tranny is better?
ok id like to know what tranny is better... the G-series that comes with the B6T or the pro lx? im getting 2 of the B6T trannies for free and well im just wondering if i should maybe sell them or go to an autowrecker and trade them straight up for the pro lx? im gonna have a B6T with 12 psi for now with the b6de tranny in and i wanna run about 16 psi after i put a beefier tranny in but id just like to know what 1 is stronger incase i decide to upgrade to a larger turbo and run more boost.
95 rs with custom short ram air, b&m short throw shifter, probe 2.0L header with 2 1/4" exhaust all the way back, catco high flow cat, apc high flow muffler with 4.5" tip, accel 8 mm wires, blaze red, cf altezzas, gun metal 17" mr7s, slotted cross drilled rotors on the way with hawk hps pads, red and white interior, other then that its stock.
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mmmm i THINK that the b6T comes w/ an AWD tranny..... i kno the japanese engines come w/ AWD trannies which is why no one wants them and probably why you can get it for free...... if its really a G-series tranny then thats the same one that comes off the Pro Lx..... the other option would be the F-series that come on stock 4-banger Mx's and Protege Dx (SOHC Model). The F series' long gears would be better for a turbo'd car, but will not hold anything over 200 hp, which the G-series would be a stronger tranny w/ shorter gears
The axles or better say the CV joints shaft ends are thicker on the 93-94 Escort GT compared to 1991- 92. The Protege 5 has the same axles and are very very strong, the bearings inside are much bigger and thicker. I think the same applies with the LX...
To tell which axle is the appropiate one you have to look closely to the boot. The thick axle has a cover boot that has contours that follow the shape of the CV joint housing while the THIN one is similar to the F axles boots, just a regular rubber boot and to secure the contours of the CV joint it uses a plastic adapter glued to the cover.
The axles are also found on the Kia Sephias DOHC 1.8, it was an upgrade done across the board. I would go for the G seires tranny, specially from the Kia Sephia 1.8 DOHC 1995-97, that is what we use here instead of the Protege or Escort.
![Image](http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/430000-430999/430130_133.jpg)
The Kia Sephia LS tranny was used on my turbo Escort GT with more than 200 WHP and it held strong no matter what, even with 4-pad disc with ACT pressure plate.
To tell which axle is the appropiate one you have to look closely to the boot. The thick axle has a cover boot that has contours that follow the shape of the CV joint housing while the THIN one is similar to the F axles boots, just a regular rubber boot and to secure the contours of the CV joint it uses a plastic adapter glued to the cover.
The axles are also found on the Kia Sephias DOHC 1.8, it was an upgrade done across the board. I would go for the G seires tranny, specially from the Kia Sephia 1.8 DOHC 1995-97, that is what we use here instead of the Protege or Escort.
![Image](http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/430000-430999/430130_133.jpg)
The Kia Sephia LS tranny was used on my turbo Escort GT with more than 200 WHP and it held strong no matter what, even with 4-pad disc with ACT pressure plate.
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ok but i have the g series from the b6t and the b6t motor and i have an axel from it also i just need to get the other axel and convert it to hydraulic or my car to cable.
95 rs with custom short ram air, b&m short throw shifter, probe 2.0L header with 2 1/4" exhaust all the way back, catco high flow cat, apc high flow muffler with 4.5" tip, accel 8 mm wires, blaze red, cf altezzas, gun metal 17" mr7s, slotted cross drilled rotors on the way with hawk hps pads, red and white interior, other then that its stock.
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Derrick Ambrose @ Corksport told me to check out the 1.8L Kia Sophia trans because supposedly it has larger ribs than the Pro LX but he couldn't remeber what year. Our sleeper is laying down around 220WHP @ 10psi and has already broken the spyder gears in a Escort GT tranny. He now has my back up Pro LX tranny in and so far it's holding it's own. The Pro-LX box has been pushed to over 500WHP but doesn't last long. The biggest problem is they stock differential at around 300lb/ft of torque. The next problem is supposedly the end case cracks between the shafts. We are investigating that issue and looking for solutions because my Drag car will make around 330WHP @ 13psi and over 500WHP @ 30psi....then I'm gonna spray the piss out of it with a progressive controller on top of that. I've had a couple theories tossed to me from several Engineers....one of which teaches the CAD system that both GM and my company uses. He is thinking it is the shafts flexing and or the bell housing twisting due to the lack of mounting points on the block to prevent torsional twisting.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/354836
B6T, APEXi Silvia IC, HKS SSQV, Magnacore KV85 Wires, NGK V-Power, Haltech E6K, Accel 300+ Digital Ign w/ coil, Accel 375+ controller, JWMmotorsports turbo manifold & exhaust, custom Garret GT-R series turbo, MAZDASPEED mounts, SRD Bushings, Pacesetter Short Shift, entire Pro LX drive train w/ custom ACT clutch (I'm the first to succeed this on B6T), Weapon-R, and lots more stuff!
B6T, APEXi Silvia IC, HKS SSQV, Magnacore KV85 Wires, NGK V-Power, Haltech E6K, Accel 300+ Digital Ign w/ coil, Accel 375+ controller, JWMmotorsports turbo manifold & exhaust, custom Garret GT-R series turbo, MAZDASPEED mounts, SRD Bushings, Pacesetter Short Shift, entire Pro LX drive train w/ custom ACT clutch (I'm the first to succeed this on B6T), Weapon-R, and lots more stuff!
- Josh
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its definatly the bell housing twisting. you should have seen the first trans i blew. the belhousing was torqued out of wack about 1/2", stress cracks and fractures all over freaking place. pissed me off, but was cool to see i had put down enough torque to do that.JWMotorsports wrote:Derrick Ambrose @ Corksport told me to check out the 1.8L Kia Sophia trans because supposedly it has larger ribs than the Pro LX but he couldn't remeber what year. Our sleeper is laying down around 220WHP @ 10psi and has already broken the spyder gears in a Escort GT tranny. He now has my back up Pro LX tranny in and so far it's holding it's own. The Pro-LX box has been pushed to over 500WHP but doesn't last long. The biggest problem is they stock differential at around 300lb/ft of torque. The next problem is supposedly the end case cracks between the shafts. We are investigating that issue and looking for solutions because my Drag car will make around 330WHP @ 13psi and over 500WHP @ 30psi....then I'm gonna spray the piss out of it with a progressive controller on top of that. I've had a couple theories tossed to me from several Engineers....one of which teaches the CAD system that both GM and my company uses. He is thinking it is the shafts flexing and or the bell housing twisting due to the lack of mounting points on the block to prevent torsional twisting.
Josh
95' AWD MX-3 RST - (work log - http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=73765 )
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95' AWD MX-3 RST - (work log - http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=73765 )
94' GS - KLZE DD (work log - viewtopic.php?uid=2713&f=46&t=79063&start=0 )
05' MS RX-8 - Parted out and Sold :'(
Feedback - http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=49519
Cardomain Page - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/408020
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- cjthor
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I exploded the diff into a few pieces and now I have a pro LX tranny now with a Mazdaspeed LSD....If I somehow break this im in big trouble.LOL
Jarid Perry
94 mx3 Turrrbooooo (not even close to stock) 302WHP
71 Chevy C20 (tow rig!!)
77 Jeep CJ5 (no way its stock)
06 MINI Cooper S JCW GP (few goodies) 210WHP
2008 MINI Cooper Clubman S
94 mx3 Turrrbooooo (not even close to stock) 302WHP
71 Chevy C20 (tow rig!!)
77 Jeep CJ5 (no way its stock)
06 MINI Cooper S JCW GP (few goodies) 210WHP
2008 MINI Cooper Clubman S
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- papa roached
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hope thats not the stock one from a MSP, from what im told they arent much stronger than the stock diffs without some riveted ring on em welded before installcjthor wrote:I exploded the diff into a few pieces and now I have a pro LX tranny now with a Mazdaspeed LSD....If I somehow break this im in big trouble.LOL
93 MX-3 GS (collecting parts for Eunos Presso conversion), 94 626 Transmission (4.10 gears), KL31 camed KL-ZE, Millenia intake, Millenia TB, SSAutochrome V2 headers, Magnaflow cat, 2 1/4 in pipe, Top Speed Pro 1 muffler, 9lb Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, Corksport SS clutch line, Corksport SS brake lines, Unorthadox UDP, 255 lph fuel pump, HEI mod, ghetto-charger intake, KL36 ECU, SRD transverse crossmember bushings, SRD shifter extention bushing, SRD crossmember, Corksport bronzoil shifter bushings, Brembo Crossdrilled and Slotted rotors, 15 inch Konig Heliums, ZX-2 S/R struts, Eibach lowering springs, OEM front strut bar, Ebay rear strut bar, BFGoodrich G-Force T/A KDWs
Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
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Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
http://www.cardomain.com/id/blazejeremy
diff welding
![Image](http://img217.exs.cx/img217/3315/dcp24817ji.jpg)
One small trick to prevent the diff from collapsing and self destruct into pieces is to weld the pin or pins located in the diff, its marked in the pic for better detail.
It may be a repost, but I like this thread;
http://www.fordlaser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25339
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