which tranny is better?

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95 rs
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which tranny is better?

Post by 95 rs »

ok id like to know what tranny is better... the G-series that comes with the B6T or the pro lx? im getting 2 of the B6T trannies for free and well im just wondering if i should maybe sell them or go to an autowrecker and trade them straight up for the pro lx? im gonna have a B6T with 12 psi for now with the b6de tranny in and i wanna run about 16 psi after i put a beefier tranny in but id just like to know what 1 is stronger incase i decide to upgrade to a larger turbo and run more boost.
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Domnknpimp
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Post by Domnknpimp »

mmmm i THINK that the b6T comes w/ an AWD tranny..... i kno the japanese engines come w/ AWD trannies which is why no one wants them and probably why you can get it for free...... if its really a G-series tranny then thats the same one that comes off the Pro Lx..... the other option would be the F-series that come on stock 4-banger Mx's and Protege Dx (SOHC Model). The F series' long gears would be better for a turbo'd car, but will not hold anything over 200 hp, which the G-series would be a stronger tranny w/ shorter gears
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nos92mx3
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Post by nos92mx3 »

they also made the 323 b6t a fwd car not just awd.
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jordy
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Post by jordy »

yeah in Holland we had both: FWD and AWD with the same engine, which BTW is produce 150 BHP instead of the 132 in amerika. And i've seen on other furom's that "our" B6T is running on 0,7 bar stock boost with a VJ-12 turbo :shock:
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Post by WTF »

The axles or better say the CV joints shaft ends are thicker on the 93-94 Escort GT compared to 1991- 92. The Protege 5 has the same axles and are very very strong, the bearings inside are much bigger and thicker. I think the same applies with the LX...

To tell which axle is the appropiate one you have to look closely to the boot. The thick axle has a cover boot that has contours that follow the shape of the CV joint housing while the THIN one is similar to the F axles boots, just a regular rubber boot and to secure the contours of the CV joint it uses a plastic adapter glued to the cover.


The axles are also found on the Kia Sephias DOHC 1.8, it was an upgrade done across the board. I would go for the G seires tranny, specially from the Kia Sephia 1.8 DOHC 1995-97, that is what we use here instead of the Protege or Escort.

Image

The Kia Sephia LS tranny was used on my turbo Escort GT with more than 200 WHP and it held strong no matter what, even with 4-pad disc with ACT pressure plate.
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95 rs
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Post by 95 rs »

ok but i have the g series from the b6t and the b6t motor and i have an axel from it also i just need to get the other axel and convert it to hydraulic or my car to cable.
95 rs with custom short ram air, b&m short throw shifter, probe 2.0L header with 2 1/4" exhaust all the way back, catco high flow cat, apc high flow muffler with 4.5" tip, accel 8 mm wires, blaze red, cf altezzas, gun metal 17" mr7s, slotted cross drilled rotors on the way with hawk hps pads, red and white interior, other then that its stock.
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Post by JWMotorsports »

Derrick Ambrose @ Corksport told me to check out the 1.8L Kia Sophia trans because supposedly it has larger ribs than the Pro LX but he couldn't remeber what year. Our sleeper is laying down around 220WHP @ 10psi and has already broken the spyder gears in a Escort GT tranny. He now has my back up Pro LX tranny in and so far it's holding it's own. The Pro-LX box has been pushed to over 500WHP but doesn't last long. The biggest problem is they stock differential at around 300lb/ft of torque. The next problem is supposedly the end case cracks between the shafts. We are investigating that issue and looking for solutions because my Drag car will make around 330WHP @ 13psi and over 500WHP @ 30psi....then I'm gonna spray the piss out of it with a progressive controller on top of that. I've had a couple theories tossed to me from several Engineers....one of which teaches the CAD system that both GM and my company uses. He is thinking it is the shafts flexing and or the bell housing twisting due to the lack of mounting points on the block to prevent torsional twisting.
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Josh
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Post by Josh »

JWMotorsports wrote:Derrick Ambrose @ Corksport told me to check out the 1.8L Kia Sophia trans because supposedly it has larger ribs than the Pro LX but he couldn't remeber what year. Our sleeper is laying down around 220WHP @ 10psi and has already broken the spyder gears in a Escort GT tranny. He now has my back up Pro LX tranny in and so far it's holding it's own. The Pro-LX box has been pushed to over 500WHP but doesn't last long. The biggest problem is they stock differential at around 300lb/ft of torque. The next problem is supposedly the end case cracks between the shafts. We are investigating that issue and looking for solutions because my Drag car will make around 330WHP @ 13psi and over 500WHP @ 30psi....then I'm gonna spray the piss out of it with a progressive controller on top of that. I've had a couple theories tossed to me from several Engineers....one of which teaches the CAD system that both GM and my company uses. He is thinking it is the shafts flexing and or the bell housing twisting due to the lack of mounting points on the block to prevent torsional twisting.
its definatly the bell housing twisting. you should have seen the first trans i blew. the belhousing was torqued out of wack about 1/2", stress cracks and fractures all over freaking place. pissed me off, but was cool to see i had put down enough torque to do that.
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cjthor
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Post by cjthor »

I exploded the diff into a few pieces and now I have a pro LX tranny now with a Mazdaspeed LSD....If I somehow break this im in big trouble.LOL
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Bo0sted_Rafi
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Post by Bo0sted_Rafi »

Here in PR, we use the Kia Sephia Tranny, its the most strongest tranny for BP engines.
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papa roached
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Post by papa roached »

cjthor wrote:I exploded the diff into a few pieces and now I have a pro LX tranny now with a Mazdaspeed LSD....If I somehow break this im in big trouble.LOL
hope thats not the stock one from a MSP, from what im told they arent much stronger than the stock diffs without some riveted ring on em welded before install
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WTF
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diff welding

Post by WTF »

Image


One small trick to prevent the diff from collapsing and self destruct into pieces is to weld the pin or pins located in the diff, its marked in the pic for better detail.

It may be a repost, but I like this thread;

http://www.fordlaser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25339
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