Suspension hell, any help appretiated
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Suspension hell, any help appretiated
I, like quicksilver, have had this clunking sound in the front end of my car for a while, pretty much ever since i lowered it. It makes noise over low speed bumps, and around really hard corners. I tried asking him if he ever fixed his problem, but he never responded to my private message. any way, me axles went bad a while ago and I replaced them so they arent the problem. the ball joint dust boot was shredded so i replaced the whole ball joint recently(2 weeks ago). I thought that would fix the problem, but it didnt. I also dont have a broken spring like David OS suggested, and I have new(jan 05) struts and strut mounts, and they didnt fix the problem, but were old n needed replaced anyway. the only thing left in the suspension that isnt new is the end link, and tie rod ends. Both of the dust boots look fine, and my alignment is fine. the only problem is the clunking. what would cause this. my thought is the endlink, but i dont want to spend 100$ if someone has had the same problem and can point me in the right direction. when i grab the stabilizer(sway) bar i cant physically move it much and it hardly budges, even with the lower control arm jacked up so im not sure it thats the problem. if anyone can help me out please let me know, this suspension is making me poor and im about to fricken go back to stock!
93 GS-DE,mx6 tranny, obx 2nd gen headers, highflow cat n 2.25" catback, 65mm tb,CAI, mazdaspeed mounts, SPEC Stage I clutch kit, new K8 flywheel, SRD C.A.B., Intrax, S.T. braces
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- mitmaks
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are your strut mounts still original, maybe they need replacement
Magnum s/s lines, strut bars, carbon fiber bezel, indiglow gauge, Sony Xplod, inverted c/f hood, SRD lower tie bar '93 GS SE '95 Cobra SVT #2722 '68 Charger R/T 440
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i replaced those with the struts in january
93 GS-DE,mx6 tranny, obx 2nd gen headers, highflow cat n 2.25" catback, 65mm tb,CAI, mazdaspeed mounts, SPEC Stage I clutch kit, new K8 flywheel, SRD C.A.B., Intrax, S.T. braces
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good suggestions. i dont think it could be the spring just because i'd think the passanger side would do the same thing, but ill wrap some old garden hose around it to be sure. Ill tighten the bolts on the endlinks because its jacked up right now, hopefully it could be that. the thrust bearings were replaced, but it was done by me mechanic a little before I replaced the struts. Could they wear out that fast, and how would they cause the clunking, because it they could make that noise, theyre cheap and pretty easy to put in so i might give that a shot
93 GS-DE,mx6 tranny, obx 2nd gen headers, highflow cat n 2.25" catback, 65mm tb,CAI, mazdaspeed mounts, SPEC Stage I clutch kit, new K8 flywheel, SRD C.A.B., Intrax, S.T. braces
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when i tighten the endlink the nut spins but doesnt move inward. Im guessing its stripped inside? also when i jack up the control arm the sway bar moves towrd the back of the car and then when i try to tighen in the sway bar moves forward. should there be play in that. Im guessing not and thinking that it could be the endlinks.?.?.?
93 GS-DE,mx6 tranny, obx 2nd gen headers, highflow cat n 2.25" catback, 65mm tb,CAI, mazdaspeed mounts, SPEC Stage I clutch kit, new K8 flywheel, SRD C.A.B., Intrax, S.T. braces
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well its not the whole endlink assembly that spins. Its the top bolt that im having that problem with, and if u can picture it, the nut side points to the back of the car and the bushing and enlink assembly points to the front. that bushing part doesnt spin, its that bolt inside there that spins. how can i stop that from moving, because nothing will fit in that gap? Does this basically mean that it wont loosen or tighten n ill have to cut that nut off?
93 GS-DE,mx6 tranny, obx 2nd gen headers, highflow cat n 2.25" catback, 65mm tb,CAI, mazdaspeed mounts, SPEC Stage I clutch kit, new K8 flywheel, SRD C.A.B., Intrax, S.T. braces
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hold that torch...
The clunking? yeah, probably the endlinks... thats a more common issue now that our cars are over 10 years old... the endlinks are just 2 balljoints that are connected by a small rod of metal... if the ball portion (with the threaded stud and nut that you're turning) spins and the nut isnt backing off, then its even more likely to be the cause of your noise... here's how to get that nut off of there... first, give it few good shots of WD-40 (and a penetrating oil if you have any around) as soon as you plan on starting to work on it (to let it soak in). After you get the car off of the ground and have your replacement parts in hand, (of course, kids, SECURELY support your front end with a jackstand, preferably on the rounded control arm bushing bracket. You look better with those legs attached.) take the wheel off, and grab your 14mm wrench (ratcheting wrenches are godsends for this kind of stuff) and a 5mm allen head socket (you can try to use a standard allen wrench, but the socket on a ratchet is MUCH easier). First, take the closed end of the 14mm wrench and slide it on the nut of your choice on the endlink. Next, take your 5mm allenhead socket (this is a socket with a six flat sided--hex shaped-- stub of metal sticking out) and stick it in the hole inside the stud of the same end of the endlink. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE that the allen socket fits TIGHTLY into the hole in the endlink stud, lest you want headaches. Now, attach your ratchet to the socket, and set it to the direction you would use to TIGHTEN. This turns the stud the opposite direction while you pop the nut off of it. Now, just turn the wrench and ratchet in opposite directions until the nut comes off. Be sure to use liberal amounts of WD-40 (or whatever lube you have handy). Repeat with the other end of the link. After this is done, you may need to grab a prybar to pop the links from the swaybar and control arm if all of your bushings are still in good shape. Installation is the reverse of removal.
IF you happen to strip out the inner hole of the studs of the endlinks, there is one last option before grabbing the hacksaw or torch. Take a small (3-5") C-clamp and just clamp it TIGHTLY onto the end of the stud and the back of the endlink. This will press the ball firmly into the joint housing and keep it from turning as easily. if it still spins freely, try a bigger c-clamp, or maybe a big set of vice grips... be creative... If all else fails, cut the bastard. Good luck!
Dan
The clunking? yeah, probably the endlinks... thats a more common issue now that our cars are over 10 years old... the endlinks are just 2 balljoints that are connected by a small rod of metal... if the ball portion (with the threaded stud and nut that you're turning) spins and the nut isnt backing off, then its even more likely to be the cause of your noise... here's how to get that nut off of there... first, give it few good shots of WD-40 (and a penetrating oil if you have any around) as soon as you plan on starting to work on it (to let it soak in). After you get the car off of the ground and have your replacement parts in hand, (of course, kids, SECURELY support your front end with a jackstand, preferably on the rounded control arm bushing bracket. You look better with those legs attached.) take the wheel off, and grab your 14mm wrench (ratcheting wrenches are godsends for this kind of stuff) and a 5mm allen head socket (you can try to use a standard allen wrench, but the socket on a ratchet is MUCH easier). First, take the closed end of the 14mm wrench and slide it on the nut of your choice on the endlink. Next, take your 5mm allenhead socket (this is a socket with a six flat sided--hex shaped-- stub of metal sticking out) and stick it in the hole inside the stud of the same end of the endlink. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE that the allen socket fits TIGHTLY into the hole in the endlink stud, lest you want headaches. Now, attach your ratchet to the socket, and set it to the direction you would use to TIGHTEN. This turns the stud the opposite direction while you pop the nut off of it. Now, just turn the wrench and ratchet in opposite directions until the nut comes off. Be sure to use liberal amounts of WD-40 (or whatever lube you have handy). Repeat with the other end of the link. After this is done, you may need to grab a prybar to pop the links from the swaybar and control arm if all of your bushings are still in good shape. Installation is the reverse of removal.
IF you happen to strip out the inner hole of the studs of the endlinks, there is one last option before grabbing the hacksaw or torch. Take a small (3-5") C-clamp and just clamp it TIGHTLY onto the end of the stud and the back of the endlink. This will press the ball firmly into the joint housing and keep it from turning as easily. if it still spins freely, try a bigger c-clamp, or maybe a big set of vice grips... be creative... If all else fails, cut the bastard. Good luck!
Dan
--Maybe the Hippopotamus was just a really cool Apotamus.--
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Cool dan, thanks for the tip. I called all the dealerships around here, and luckily the one has an endlink in stock, and surprisingly its only 50$. Im hoping to pick it up tomorrow after work, and work on it tomorrow night. I hope to god this fixes all my woes. Thanks again for everyones input, Ill update u with the final verdict
93 GS-DE,mx6 tranny, obx 2nd gen headers, highflow cat n 2.25" catback, 65mm tb,CAI, mazdaspeed mounts, SPEC Stage I clutch kit, new K8 flywheel, SRD C.A.B., Intrax, S.T. braces
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Clunking Noise
Has your clunking problem been resolved? My MX3 has been doing the same thing and is very annoying. Have changed struts and springs and 1 endlink and is still clunking when I go over little bumps (hi speed and low speeds). Let me know. Thanks.
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yea sorry for not updating, i forgot about the post for a lil. the clunking is still there and still very annoying. Quicksilver and I have the same problem and have replaced everything possible except the tie rod ends so thats probably my and his next step. So far the ball joint and the endlink being replaced has minimized the problem, but its still there. Im hoping to get a tie rod end and put that on while im doing my engine swap, so if that fixes it ill let u know. If u replace ur tie rod end and it helps post back too!
93 GS-DE,mx6 tranny, obx 2nd gen headers, highflow cat n 2.25" catback, 65mm tb,CAI, mazdaspeed mounts, SPEC Stage I clutch kit, new K8 flywheel, SRD C.A.B., Intrax, S.T. braces
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