Turn signal housing

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jschrauwen
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Turn signal housing

Post by jschrauwen »

Just got the first lense cover off my front turn signals to install clear covers and noticed a second isolated section inside the turn signal body, probably utilized in non NA-Spec MX's. Has anyone converted that section (to Euro-Spec), if so what size light bulb and base was used. I'd like to do the conversion. :?:
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Post by MarkMoore »

where'd you get clear lenses at? i thought in order to have clear signals you had to buy the whole housing like the ones at corksport
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Post by jschrauwen »

From Bugsy007
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Post by neutral »

Luc St. Pierre had a nice DRL how-to on the previous incarnation of his GSR site - he recently removed that info though. I haven't done this mod (yet) but remember reading from Luc's old site that while NA housings have no socket provided, the size required is the same as the 3rd brake light & 3rd brake light bulb is P/N 921 @18w. The turn signal bulb filament is rated @25w w/50% duty-cycle so the housing should handle at least 12.5w continuous. You might want to use #922 12.5w bulbs to be safe because the #921 18w bulb heats up the turn sig housing pretty toasty. :evil:
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Post by MX-3.com »

That's actually a pretty old mod.

Check Luc St. Pierre's page for more info on doing that mod.

I could;t find the pages myself, but maybe if you e-mail him, he still has it somewhere.
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Post by jschrauwen »

Neutral and Jeff
Outstanding info, many thanks. I'll try contacting Luc. Was he listed on the home page or do you know what handle he goes by (if he does) in here? Again many thanks!!
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Post by neutral »

Try l s t p i e r @ c g o c a b l e . c a (address from his current website). Might see him on the UBB once in a while but can't recall his sr. Here's the link to Luc's current hosted MX-3 GSR site if ever needed. http://cafe.rapidus.net/stpierlu/index.html Used to have a lot of additional useful info there from Vaughn but looks like that's been removed recently.
Last edited by neutral on February 11th, 2005, 7:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by jschrauwen »

MX-3.com wrote:That's actually a pretty old mod.

Old mod for an old guy.......LOL
Thanks for the thread move!!
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Post by atlantamx3 »

MarkMoore wrote:where'd you get clear lenses at? i thought in order to have clear signals you had to buy the whole housing like the ones at corksport
NO-- you can buy the lenses only if you want to. I bought mine from corksport 5 years ago and did the conversion.

Pretty easy too! 8)
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Post by jschrauwen »

atlantamx3 wrote: NO-- you can buy the lenses only if you want to. I bought mine from corksport 5 years ago and did the conversion. Pretty easy too! 8)
atlantamx3 - What power source did you draw upon, DRL or park light system.
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Post by Invisible »

MarkMoore wrote:where'd you get clear lenses at? i thought in order to have clear signals you had to buy the whole housing like the ones at corksport
Corksport also sells just the lenses, just gotta heat up the old ones and pull em off the assembly and reseal the new ones. :twisted:
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Post by jschrauwen »

jschrauwen wrote:atlantamx3 - What power source did you draw upon, DRL or park light system.
More precisely, did you do the extra mod of adding another fixture (socket and bulb) in the spare recess. If so, I'm looking to find which or where would be the best place to draw current from.....park lights, DRL???
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Post by neutral »

Most of Luc's DRL how-to is available on this archive site. Minus some of the pics but still worth a read for ideas and direction. Explains enough to find your way around diff wiring options, especially if you have a shop manual... Scroll down for the DRL piece http://web.archive.org/web/200202252206 ... r_inst.htm
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Post by jschrauwen »

Outstanding neutral
I had the first bit but not the DRL stuff. Many thanks.
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Post by Taras »

jschrauwen wrote:
jschrauwen wrote:atlantamx3 - What power source did you draw upon, DRL or park light system.
More precisely, did you do the extra mod of adding another fixture (socket and bulb) in the spare recess. If so, I'm looking to find which or where would be the best place to draw current from.....park lights, DRL???
Either or. You do not want to tap into a DRL circuity (as is) for this, as you will run it on a de-powered mode. If you want those to be activated by the DRL circuit, you need to bypass the resistor and then you can have a full power from that. Resistor is a big box/heat sink that sits in the upper driverside corner of the engine bay. Close to the wiper motor.

As far as connectors and bulb choice for that little socket is concerned. If you want, I have an OEM ones from J-Spec lights that you can have for free, I do not need them. Or you can go to Cad Tire and pick some up. I would not want to run a high powered bulb in there for obvious reasons. The highest I had was a 7w one, bit I am sure somewhere in 10w range will be ok too.
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