Buying a MX-3, good deal??

[sevsev]

Hey all, new here. I haven't got a MX-3 YET but I plan to definately get one, I think they are beautiful. Forgive me if this is in the wrong section?

I live in Cambridge, Ontario which is in the Waterloo region for those of you that are from Ontario, I'm about a 45 minute drive from Toronto.

Someone that I've been talking to recently is selling their '93 MX-3, it's the V6 with power sunroof and power everything, I think that's the GS model? There is 255,000 km's on the body and less than 100,000 on a new engine and it's a 5spd. Their is small spots of rust just above the tires on the rear quarter panels (both of them, this should be an easy fix?). He bought the car about a month ago but has to drive quite a distance for school everyday and can't afford the gas. He bought it for $2530 and is asking $2900 for it (says put $400 into it, I will still only offer up to $2500). I really want a MX-3 and I really want the V6 with power everything, but I also really want the interior of the 92-93 models. Wondering what everyone thinks, is this a good buy? How much should I ask? I could always go for a newer one (94-96) but I really want the interior style.

I have included some pictures.

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/ ... ure092.jpg" alt=" - " />
This is the engine, you can see a black tube to the right that has tape around it, when he bought it it was like that, probably broke when the new engine was being put in. He recently had some problems with it but more tape solved the problem. I'll get this fixed right away if I buy it of course.

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/ ... ure091.jpg" alt=" - " />
Interior, very clean

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/ ... ure088.jpg" alt=" - " />
Rear shot

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/ ... ure083.jpg" alt=" - " />
The hood is also chipped up pretty good, the guy said that the previous owner said it was pretty much all highway driven. If I buy it I'm getting it painted, and probably an aftermarket front bumper.

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/ ... ure080.jpg" alt=" - " />
Here you can kinda see the rust on the rear quarter panel, it's on the other side too

So what does everybody think? Should I go through or is this MX-3's time almost up? How much should I ask or should I just go with a newer more expensive model? Is 255,000 km's on the body too much??

[mitmaks]

id say its good buy for $2500

[sevsev]

thanks, is there anything i should look out for in this particular model year?

input please

[perhapsadingo8yerbaby]

2500 sounds reasonable considering the engine replacement and car appears decently cared for from pics anyway, good tires, good interior.

*Check everything that operates on an electrical switch/motor. Pwr. windows, locks, sunroof, accessories. It's had a lot of "body miles" so you wanna ask if those things have been replaced/repaired cause they do wear out and original Mazda parts can cost a gonad.

* Pay attention on a test drive to any supension noises, clicking/ticking/clunking etc. Again, fairly high body miles can mean worn susp. bushings/CV joints/shocks etc. All repairable when needed but at some time and expense. Ask if any suspension work has been done in those areas of the car.

* Look inside/around the gas filler tube opening. They are prone to rust from the inside out. Replaceable but it's a dealer part so you'd maybe hafta part with a bit of another gonad to replace.

* Check the "technical service bulletin" and recalls link of MX-3.com for some other typical stuff to be aware of and ask about.

* Ck. if the rear wheelwell edge rust is only on the surface or is it coming thru from the underside. If from the underside, might be more body work there than is immediately apparent.

* Using a magnet wrapped in a thin single cloth layer, like a piece of old t-shirt (to protect the car), run the magnet all over the metal body panel areas. Whenever/wherever the magnet stops being attracted, it's a good way to detect previous bondo body repairs from accidents.

* Ck. the oil and coolant. Make sure it looks fresh, clean with no grayish color in either fluid which can indicate a blown head gasket.

* Open the oil filler cap. Inside, you should not see a dark brown varnish type coating on the internals which can mean that oil changes have been skipped.

* Test drive the car to full operating temp. to be sure it runs within reasonable temp range and not too hot. Check heater and A/C for ok operation.

* Punch the throttle/rpms a bit thru the gears and watch your rear view mirror or even better, have a friend follow to make sure no blue smoke puffs out the exhaust. Watch it when the motor is both cold and in normal op temp range. Blue smoke means oil is burning/entering the exhaust stream and the engine internals are worn.

* Ask if there are any receipts/records of past repairs including the engine replacement. It's great if those exist and you'll wanna review em.

Good luck!

<small>[ September 11, 2004, 03:43 PM: Message edited by: perhapsadingo8yerbaby ]</small>

[sevsev]

thanks a ton! this looks like it pretty much covers everything i need to do, thanks again

[slogar]

Sorry to be such a cynic, but I would be very suspicious of anyone who buys a performance vehicle and then claims one month later he can't afford the gas (and wants a few hundred dollars more than he paid for the car to boot! He would not have shelled out for repairs if he could not even buy gas!) This is either a student with absolutely zero foresight...or he recently bought the car at auction looking for a quick (and profitable) resale. For your sake I hope I am woefully wrong. But please check carefully all body panels to make sure they're straight (i.e. no crash damage--check also for areas where paint colors/glossiness change--this could indicate repairs). Look for smoke on start-up and acceleration. Does it run smoothly? Does it wobble any during steering/braking? Does it steer absolutely straight or are you constantly correcting a little urge to veer into the roadside? Are the window/windshield seals all in place and fitted properly?(missing or poorly fitting ones could indicate repairs). Drive it long enough to get full temp and make sure it does not overheat. Is the transmission tight? No clutch slippage? Accelerate to high rpm--MX-3's should be silky, silky smooth aaallll the way, so smooth in fact that I often forgot to change into 5th gear on highways when I first bought mine). Check tires for abnormal wear (i.e. suspension damage). And look closely for the very common mx-3 valve cover leaks...and then be sure you've got a legit deal (i.e. not a stolen car). Good luck! A good MX-3 will make you very, very happy every time you turn the key.

[PATDIESEL]

A good way to check for body repair is to look at the joints between body panels. They should have a consistant even gap between them. If not then they have been removed and not replaced properly. Also many aftermarket body parts used by repair shops are not 100% straight, so they will not line up perfectly.

[sevsev]

Thanks all for the input, I'm pretty confident he's not trying to screw with me as me and him are somewhat friends but also some good friends of mine know him personally. He says he has all reciepts, aside from the reason being just gas he might want something faster or something more of a project, he doesn't even know if he's going to sell it for sure, but this thing runs awesome