Replacing rear brake pads

[wombleUK]

Hi,
I'm not very mechanically minded but a few weeks ago I decided to have a go at maintaining my MX3 myself.
The first job was to replace the front brake pads. It seemed a little daunting, but once I got the wheels off and had a good look, it was pretty straightforward and I had the whole job done in about an hour and a half.
Today I decided to do the rear pads - completely different story. I just cannot see how to change them. Having spend a couple of hours this afternoon, I decided to get a Haynes manual before the shops shut for the bank holiday weekend - apparently they don't do one!
I did a search on the internet and came up with Chiltons, but discovered their coverage for the MX3 is sketchy to say the least.
So, can anyone tell me (in great detail and preferably with diagrams) how to change the rear brake pads on my 98 MX3 ?

thanks for your help
Graham

<small>[ May 29, 2004, 12:40 PM: Message edited by: Graham ]</small>

[perhapsadingo8yerbaby]

Sorry, I don't have a flatbed scanner and my repair manuals are bound copies so can't send you e-diagrams. Recommend you get the chilton's as it covers this topic well including diagrams. You could also get basic tutorial type info from the following link...

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/drum-brake.htm

You don't say if your MX is 4 cyl Base model or a V6 GS model. Only GS's had 4 wheel disc brakes. My guess is that you have a 4 cyl. model w/rear brake DRUMS which utilize a pair of brake shoes (only called pads for disc brakes, like your front ones). For rear drum brakes, the shoes (2 per wheel) are enclosed within each drum, mounted in a spring retention opposing configuration. When the brake pedal is depressed, the shoes are pressed outward against the spinning drum internal surface.

The key to seeing the inner drum workings and removing/replacing the shoes is to be sure your emer. parking brake is off, take off the wheel and pull the drum off. Removing the drum can sometimes be a pain as it probably hasn't been off the car for quite some time. Replacing drum brakes is not difficult but is different than the disc brakes & the challenge usually concerns reinstalling the various brake shoe retention springs which are not easily spread for reattachment. I use a special inexpensive pair of hooked nose pliers to make this easier but they aren't absolutely required.

Whether you attempt to replace the shoes with a Chilton's manual handy or not, recommend removing both rear wheels & drums, then work on one side to completion while using the assembled side for reference as needed. Good luck.

[wombleUK]

Thanks.
I know I said I'm not mechanically minded, but I do know the difference between drums and discs.
I have discs.
thanks,
Graham

[perhapsadingo8yerbaby]

Originally posted by Graham:
Hi,
I'm not very mechanically minded but a few weeks ago I decided to have a go at maintaining my MX3 myself... Today I decided to do the rear pads - completely different story. I just cannot SEE how to change them...

Sorry bout that. I took your statements too literally and made an erroneous conclusion. Good luck.

[wombleUK]

[johnnyb]

Just like the front pads only when you push the piston you need to turn as well

[wombleUK]

But how do you push the piston ?
I can't see anyway to get to it.
Also the pads are a weird shape and, again, if I get the piston moved back I don't see how they come out.

cheers,
Graham

[Jutzi420]

I'm assuming you haven't managed to remove the caliper, you need to remove it to get at the rear pads. You might be able to do it without disconnecting the brake line but I can't remember for sure, I painted my calipers when I did my brakes last so I had everything pulled apart.

There's one bolt holding the caliper in place from the rear at the top end of each one. It's either I think it's a 12mm. Remove that and pull the parking brake cable out of the lever on the back of the caliper then you should be able to pivot the whole thing towards the front of the car.

[Jutzi420]

Oh, and about pushing the piston. There's a couple notches on the surface of the piston, you'll see them when you get the caliper off, you should be able to move it in by grabbing the notches with some large needle-nose pliers and turning it clockwise. If they're real stiff you may need a C-Clamp. Be aware if you still have the brake lines attached that when you compress the piston fluid will flow back into the resevoir. Make sure it doesn't overflow on ya, brake fluid makes a real mess.

<small>[ May 29, 2004, 05:46 PM: Message edited by: Jutzi420 ]</small>

[lakersfan1]

Originally posted by Jutzi420:
you should be able to move it in by grabbing the notches with some large needle-nose pliers and turning it clockwise.

Yep. Spread the pliers, and stick one end on each side in the indents, and twist them in instead of pushing. They'll go in. Very wierd way of doing it, IMO.

[wombleUK]

Thanks guys, that was exactly what I needed.
Easy when you know how!

thanks again,
Graham