Erk! Induction kit install gone wrong! (or has it?)

[Dave-UK-MX3-V6-SE]

Was looking not at a new distributor - but just the ignition unit? See here...

http://www.quitegood.com/menu.php?&supplierRef=probedistributors&cat1=Motoring&cat2=Parts%20n%20Accessories-Distributors&category=MAZDA&subCategory=IGNITION%20MODULES&subSubCategor y=MX

Thanks

<small>[ October 06, 2004, 08:40 AM: Message edited by: Dave-UK-MX3-V6-SE ]</small>

[mmac]

I suppose my concern would be that only buying the ignition unit might turn out to be a false economy if it isn't the component that is faulty.

[Dave-UK-MX3-V6-SE]

OK, thanks all.

I'm going to swap over the VAF and check the TDC sensor again tonight as a last ditch effort, then order a reconditioned dizzy tomorrow for £235

On an unrelated note, I got those nite-glo dials in yesterday, any hints or tips when installing? Is it a big job to do?

-David "hopefully 'ing soon" N

[IanL]

Agree with that.

Why not do what mmac suggested higher up:

"Give them a phone on 07973 315 349 and arrange to send your dizzy to be tested. They are prompt (I sent mine to them and it was returned fixed within 3 days of me sending it).
If it turns out that the dizzy is OK it will only have cost you about a tenner in postage"

That way if its faulty they will fit the module for you, and if it doesn't work there will be no issue of whether you damaged it in fitting it to the distributor. And if it isn't faulty, you are quids in.

[Dave-UK-MX3-V6-SE]

I'd send the dizzy off, but i'm now in urgent need of the car working, so am banking on this being shipped next-day and sorted on the friday. I'm supposed to be taking the car to a show on the friday night.

Question... if the VAF sensor was faulty, is there any way it could cause this? having the argument with someone, i think it might since it's relaying data to the ECU and if it is opened to much the car will choke and stall, his argument is that it's got nothing to do with ignition... argh!

cheers

<small>[ October 06, 2004, 11:29 AM: Message edited by: Dave-UK-MX3-V6-SE ]</small>

[IanL]

From the symptoms you've reported I'd say 95% probability it's the distributor, 5% VAF or something else.

[Dave-UK-MX3-V6-SE]

Right.

It's done, ordered and paid £270 for a new disty, I now have no money for the rest of the month!

Moral of this story, don't fit an induction kit if you don't need to. The end.

Will post an update tomorrow night when it's installed.............. again thanks for everybody's advice.

[Dave-UK-MX3-V6-SE]

Alas...

new disty did not fix, what a b*stard..

on another note, i did the whole fault code thing, got 04 - TDC issue after all?

[IanL]

TDC?

Code 04 is No SGT (aka NE1)signal (camshaft position sensor):

Distributor connector
Wiring from main relay to distributor
Wiring from distributor to ECU
Sensor in distributor

Could it be a cable has fractured in changing the disty?

[Dave-UK-MX3-V6-SE]

Well.

Ordered new camshaft position sensor from Mazda - arrived today, fitted, still not starting.

Put old disty back on since the new one seems not to be helping, and checked pretty much every connection i could see. Sometimes now it fires and seems to be on the edge of starting up, but just not quite there.

Bloody hell then! How **** this situation truly is.

One thing to note is that while I was cranking it, my brother wiggled the connectors on the disty/going to engine block and it turned over enough to cause the "stall" lights (on HUD) to go off, for just a moment. Perhaps a loose connection?

Pass the suicide pills please, thanks.

Dave

[HKv6]

I hate to say this, but thank God this is happening to you and not me!
Go shoot some high calibre weapons and go back and look at your engine with fresh eyes.
Hope you get your baby fixed.

[IanL]

Originally posted by Dave-UK-MX3-V6-SE:
.... my brother wiggled the connectors on the disty/going to engine block and it turned over enough to cause the "stall" lights (on HUD) to go off, for just a moment. Perhaps a loose connection?

Definitely a clue. (Not that I know what lights you're referring to.) Do you have access to a multimeter? If so, I'll scan some pages of the manual for you to do some fault-finding on the wires.

I've just read XxantwanxX's thread (3 distys) and it would be a good idea to check that ground from the disty.

<small>[ October 12, 2004, 05:03 PM: Message edited by: IanL ]</small>

[blueskyguy007]

Hey Man I feel ya...Right now my car is given me $hit too...Everytime I hit the gas more than 20% it just stalls really low but doesn't die. After takin everyone's advice on here, replaceing an o2 sensor, and the fuel filter I thought well I'll just get it looked at by a real professional...they said it was my fuel pump so out goes about $165 US just to have the same problem even after...Oh did i mention I had to pay him $55 US just to get his wrong diagnoisis...Man I'm Fu(kin pissed...I'm goin up there in the morning and someone's getten there A$$ chewed. Oh I'm 20 too with no money also

[mmac]

Sorry for asking what may seem obvious questions, but here I go anyway.

During your removal-fit-removal-refit of the induction/intake kit did you make sure and reconnnect everything as it was originally :- pipes,ducts,elec connections?

When you ordered your replacement dizzy did you make sure and get the right p/n as they changed in 1994(maybe IanL can clarify this)and I think the wiring to them differs slightly. I think the two possible P/N are KLY1-18-200 (old) and K834-18-200A (new).

Like I said obvious questions, but if you don't ask you don't know.

[IanL]

Originally posted by mmac:
...When you ordered your replacement dizzy did you make sure and get the right p/n as they changed in 1994(maybe IanL can clarify this)and I think the wiring to them differs slightly. I think the two possible P/N are KLY1-18-200 (old) and K834-18-200A (new).

KLY1-18-200 (old) is correct. It changed to K834-18-200 in 11/93 (I assume that date is from the factory, not sold to buyer).

The difference is the way the 3 pin plug is wired. If the wires are the wrong way round it doesn't work at all.

With the two "bars" on the top, the pins on the distributor are called C, B and A from left to right. (Just to be clear, it will be right to left looking into the connector).

On 93 and earlier models, the coil primary is between A and C, and the secondary on C. On 94-on, the primary is between A and B, and the secondary on A. If this applies to your car, and you have a 93 and earlier distributor, you should swap the A cable to C position in the connector, B cable to A position and C cable to B position.

If it's the other way round, just reverse the instructions.