Bear with me as I am a new owner of an MX-3, V6, 1992. The car was sitting for 6 months + and it starts, idles, and will go in reverse just fine. However, when I put it in D the engine dies IMMEDIATELY. No amount of revving or rolling or coaxing of any kind will convince the engine to run while in D.
Any thoughts? I am new to this car, and will try to pull engine codes, but I am guessing it has to be a sensor or switch of some sort.
I would love to get this thing to drive so I can move it to a safe garage (it's on the street now with no plates) so your help would be GREATLY appreaciated!!!
-James
<small>[ September 18, 2004, 06:03 PM: Message edited by: rs25com ]</small>
Engine dies in D but not in R???
Re: Engine dies in D but not in R???
There are a number of things which could be the cause. Most likely ones are the P/N switch signal (ECU terminal 1R or Transaxle CU terminal 1D - should be battery volts other than in P and N), ATF level and condition (easy to check - nice if it fixes the problem!).
Others: Transaxle Range Switch adjustment/fault, Line Pressure Test, Throttle Pressure Test, Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve, Transaxle Control Module. You need special test gear for most of these, so it's a job for a specialist.
<small>[ September 19, 2004, 03:22 AM: Message edited by: IanL ]</small>
Others: Transaxle Range Switch adjustment/fault, Line Pressure Test, Throttle Pressure Test, Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve, Transaxle Control Module. You need special test gear for most of these, so it's a job for a specialist.
<small>[ September 19, 2004, 03:22 AM: Message edited by: IanL ]</small>
Re-shaped and re-sized gearshift lever. Best driveability mod you can do!
Extra thick soundproofing in the boot (trunk) to quieten my stainless steel exhaust system![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Extra thick soundproofing in the boot (trunk) to quieten my stainless steel exhaust system
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
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Re: Engine dies in D but not in R???
Hey, the P/N switch - is that located under the shifter, a little black box with a grey rod that comes out and goes around the metal rod that connects to the shifter?
When I bought the car, the shifter release would not work, so I popped to consoles off and tried to figure out why. Someone had destroyed the key release (to the right of the shifter) and I could not figure out how to release it, so I simply bent it about 1/2" to the right to allow the shifter arm to move. Now it moves, so I can get it in gear, but you are saying that switch is sending a signal, right?
I thought it was the lockout mechanism, and simply moved the lockout arm out of the way or something.
How do I make the shifter interlock disable when I turn on the ignition? I think this is the most likely problem.
THANKS!
When I bought the car, the shifter release would not work, so I popped to consoles off and tried to figure out why. Someone had destroyed the key release (to the right of the shifter) and I could not figure out how to release it, so I simply bent it about 1/2" to the right to allow the shifter arm to move. Now it moves, so I can get it in gear, but you are saying that switch is sending a signal, right?
I thought it was the lockout mechanism, and simply moved the lockout arm out of the way or something.
How do I make the shifter interlock disable when I turn on the ignition? I think this is the most likely problem.
THANKS!
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Re: Engine dies in D but not in R???
I guess I should clarify a little more:
In the automatic car, you have to press the button on the side of the shifter in to move the gear selector. When I bought it, the button could not be depressed. Under the console the button has a pin/rod that moves when you depress the button. However, right now it strikes a metal assembly.
My quick fix was to bend the metal blocking assembly out of the way so I could move the shifter arm without having to depress the button on the shifter. Sounds like I need to bend it back, but how does that lock-out thing work? Is there a cable or relay that is broken?
In the automatic car, you have to press the button on the side of the shifter in to move the gear selector. When I bought it, the button could not be depressed. Under the console the button has a pin/rod that moves when you depress the button. However, right now it strikes a metal assembly.
My quick fix was to bend the metal blocking assembly out of the way so I could move the shifter arm without having to depress the button on the shifter. Sounds like I need to bend it back, but how does that lock-out thing work? Is there a cable or relay that is broken?
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Re: Engine dies in D but not in R???
And the solution was:
The intake tube from between the air filter box and the manifold had a tear in it. Obviously the MAF was measuring the air, but the vacuum leak was causing problems.
In addition, I bent the arm back under the console and manually engaged it. Now it starts, idles, and runs fine.
Thanks!
The intake tube from between the air filter box and the manifold had a tear in it. Obviously the MAF was measuring the air, but the vacuum leak was causing problems.
In addition, I bent the arm back under the console and manually engaged it. Now it starts, idles, and runs fine.
Thanks!