KLZE Swap- 1.8ECU vs 2.5ECU

[Absath]

As I post this, my car is in the shop in the middle of the KLZE swap. Now, originally we had planned to just use the 1.8 ECU.

However, I may be able to get a 2.5 ECU sometime this week. In your opinions, from personal experience and what you've read... should I hold out and get the 2.5 ECU, possibly delaying the return of my car an extra few days (already been without it for 3 weeks) or should I just go ahead and let them put the engine back in with the 1.8 ECU?

Will the engine run much better with a 2.5 ECU? Will the engine run like crap with a 1.8 ECU? How big of a deal is it to have the ECU swapped at a later date? Is it something they can do fairly quickly, or does the engine have to come out to do it?

-Tim

<small>[ September 12, 2004, 07:06 PM: Message edited by: Absath ]</small>

[mxmaz]

Go ahead and get your car back with the 1.8 ecu, when you get the 2.5 ecu, put it in then. When you say 2.5 ecu, are you talking about the klze or klde ecu. I dont think it will run so well with the klde ecu. Maybe get the de vaf to? ... im not to sure on that one.

[lakersfan1]

From what I understand, if you're trying to go cheap with a KLZE swap, you want to use the KLDE VAF with the K8DE ECU.

[papa roached]

thats what i did, runs pretty good

[Absath]

I'm not really worried about cheap, I'm worried about having my car running well

-Tim

[Nd4SpdSe]

Originally posted by lakersfan1:
From what I understand, if you're trying to go cheap with a KLZE swap, you want to use the KLDE VAF with the K8DE ECU.

But the ironic thing is that a VAF is about the same price as an ECU..i know the 1.8VAF(JE50) is the VAF that's used stock with KLZE ECU's

I ran my ZE with the stock ECU for a day, it ran really rich and sucked through gas like it was going out of style

<small>[ September 13, 2004, 12:47 AM: Message edited by: Nd4SpdSe ]</small>

[hgallegos915]

why not get the klze ecu? and the ze vaf if money is not the problem?

[papa roached]

the KL-DE VAF leans it out ALOT

[Absath]

So let me get this straight, because you guys are giving me all sorts of combinations here-

To have my engine running the BEST it can, I should have the 2.5 ECU and the stock 1.8 VAF?

Or should I get the 2.5 ECU and find a 2.5 VAF?

Because as it sounds right now, running a KLZE with a 1.8 ECU and 1.8 VAF is not a good idea, correct?

Edit: By the way, the ECU I'm ready to buy is out of a 93 Probe Gt. He says it has "KL-47" on it. Is this an ECU I can use?
-Tim

<small>[ September 13, 2004, 02:40 AM: Message edited by: Absath ]</small>

[IanL]

Originally posted by Absath:
So let me get this straight, because you guys are giving me all sorts of combinations here-

To have my engine running the BEST it can, I should have the 2.5 ECU and the stock 1.8 VAF?

Or should I get the 2.5 ECU and find a 2.5 VAF?

Because as it sounds right now, running a KLZE with a 1.8 ECU and 1.8 VAF is not a good idea, correct?

Edit: By the way, the ECU I'm ready to buy is out of a 93 Probe Gt. He says it has "KL-47" on it. Is this an ECU I can use?
-Tim

The BEST is the KLZE ECU (KL31 or KL36) with the stock K8 VAF. That's the factory fit for the KLZE engine. The ECU change is quite easy, just take out the side panel from the central console under the dash and you'll see it there.

If you really want to keep the stock K8 ECU, then get a KLDE VAF, but it's not as good, and won't save much, if anything.

Using the KL47 does not sound like a good idea - It's not matched to the KLZE engine, and I've never seen a post that anyone was happy with using it in any combination. It would, of course be fine with a KLDE engine and a KLDE VAF.

[2RotorsNaDream]

Dont use that ECU. Ask him to buy his VAF instead. And use that til you could get a ZE ECU.

[Absath]

Alright, I told them to go ahead and finish it up with the 1.8 ECU. I'm going to look for an ECU with KL31 or KL36 on it, and I'll have it put in as soon as I get one. Until then, my car will just eat more gas than usual, right?

-Tim

[IanL]

Lazzyie on this board can get KL31 / KL36 ECU's. Until you get one, try resetting the K8 ECU daily, because I have an idea that the running rich may be caused by the learning program in the ECU.

[Absath]

Well, I've already bought a KL36 ECU, but I won't have it for about a week. I should get my car back this week, so I'll be driving it for a short time with the K8 ECU and K8 VAF.

I just want to make sure it's not going to damage anything until I'm able to switch to a KL36 ECU and K8 VAF combination.

-Tim

<small>[ September 13, 2004, 04:27 PM: Message edited by: Absath ]</small>

[lakersfan1]

Originally posted by Absath:
Well, I've already bought a KL36 ECU, but I won't have it for about a week. I should get my car back this week, so I'll be driving it for a short time with the K8 ECU and K8 VAF.

I just want to make sure it's not going to damage anything until I'm able to switch to a KL36 ECU and K8 VAF combination.

-Tim

If it's already on order, don't worry about it. It'll run really rich, but it's much better to run rich than lean. A week ain't going to kill it.