KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
Hey All,
No, I'm not going to ask which is the better swap from a performance or monetary perspective (ZE from everything I've read). I'm also not looking to do any forced induction. What I will ask is when it comes to long term reliability, repair work, and overall market support, which is the better choice?
For instance, given the more 'aggressive' nature of the ZE, will it have a shorter overall life expectancy than the DE? Or, if I were to have a local mechanic or, heaven forbid, a dealership do any work on the car after the swap, would they simply scratch their head at the ZE, but be able to work on the DE? Or, are these relatively silly questions and if I'm going to bother at all, just bite the bullet and get a ZE? Sorry for the ignorance.
The reason I ask is because I'm debating swapping out my K8 w/125k miles for a replacement next summer. Given the K8 is probably due for a timing belt replacement, and likely some other things, I figured I'd be better off investing in the swap. Since I'm based in Detroit, I figured maybe I'd drive out to A-Spec in Ontario and have them do the work since I've heard good things. I've done suspension and basic engine mods myself, but I'm no mechanic. If I want to put in a replacement which is a) better than what I've got, b) that's going to last me a long time, and c) isn't trouble to maintain after I've put it in....well which is it?
Thanks for your input!
No, I'm not going to ask which is the better swap from a performance or monetary perspective (ZE from everything I've read). I'm also not looking to do any forced induction. What I will ask is when it comes to long term reliability, repair work, and overall market support, which is the better choice?
For instance, given the more 'aggressive' nature of the ZE, will it have a shorter overall life expectancy than the DE? Or, if I were to have a local mechanic or, heaven forbid, a dealership do any work on the car after the swap, would they simply scratch their head at the ZE, but be able to work on the DE? Or, are these relatively silly questions and if I'm going to bother at all, just bite the bullet and get a ZE? Sorry for the ignorance.
The reason I ask is because I'm debating swapping out my K8 w/125k miles for a replacement next summer. Given the K8 is probably due for a timing belt replacement, and likely some other things, I figured I'd be better off investing in the swap. Since I'm based in Detroit, I figured maybe I'd drive out to A-Spec in Ontario and have them do the work since I've heard good things. I've done suspension and basic engine mods myself, but I'm no mechanic. If I want to put in a replacement which is a) better than what I've got, b) that's going to last me a long time, and c) isn't trouble to maintain after I've put it in....well which is it?
Thanks for your input!
'93 MX-3 GS
- JWMX3
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Re: KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
I'd say it will be practical to go with KL-DE... you will save lots of money and it will be much easier to pass emissions
Also, you can still get ze power from a naturally aspirated DE with some work
Also, you can still get ze power from a naturally aspirated DE with some work
94' Mx3 GS 0-60 in 7.53s [5 spd conversion / Rebuilt 2.5 KL]
- papa roached
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Re: KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
they are the same block, the head castings are slightly different, the ZE has higher compression and better cams, you can get all service parts for it by using KL-DE parts and millenia intake manifold gaskets, i see no reason why it shouldnt last just as long if you take care of it and done beat on it all the time
93 MX-3 GS (collecting parts for Eunos Presso conversion), 94 626 Transmission (4.10 gears), KL31 camed KL-ZE, Millenia intake, Millenia TB, SSAutochrome V2 headers, Magnaflow cat, 2 1/4 in pipe, Top Speed Pro 1 muffler, 9lb Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, Corksport SS clutch line, Corksport SS brake lines, Unorthadox UDP, 255 lph fuel pump, HEI mod, ghetto-charger intake, KL36 ECU, SRD transverse crossmember bushings, SRD shifter extention bushing, SRD crossmember, Corksport bronzoil shifter bushings, Brembo Crossdrilled and Slotted rotors, 15 inch Konig Heliums, ZX-2 S/R struts, Eibach lowering springs, OEM front strut bar, Ebay rear strut bar, BFGoodrich G-Force T/A KDWs
Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
http://www.cardomain.com/id/blazejeremy
Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
http://www.cardomain.com/id/blazejeremy
- babyblueMX3
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Re: KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
don't forget that ze and de intake valves are different...ze intake valves are bigger..not sure where you can get those if you need replacement tho
RIP 400whp ZE-T MX-3
Current car : Golf 01 GTI 1.8T (15 psi)
Current car : Golf 01 GTI 1.8T (15 psi)
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Re: KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
If you're into having to pay for valve replacement, then you might as well just buy another ZE anyways.Originally posted by babyblueMX3:
don't forget that ze and de intake valves are different...ze intake valves are bigger..not sure where you can get those if you need replacement tho
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Re: KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
Basically the same thing. Because of the lack of an EGR the ZE is harder to pass emissions but just put the EGR on and its all good. They use the same aftermarket parts and are both just as reliable as each other.
1993 Mazda RX-7 Touring Edition Innocent Blue Mica- Not stock...
1993 Teal MX-3 GS- KLZE and other goodies. RIP
1993 Teal MX-3 GS- KLZE and other goodies. RIP
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Re: KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
What aftermarket parts would those be?Originally posted by Illa Killa:
Basically the same thing. Because of the lack of an EGR the ZE is harder to pass emissions but just put the EGR on and its all good. They use the same aftermarket parts and are both just as reliable as each other.
GS-R SE
Fixin's
- papa roached
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Re: KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
cams, headers, flywheel, UDP
93 MX-3 GS (collecting parts for Eunos Presso conversion), 94 626 Transmission (4.10 gears), KL31 camed KL-ZE, Millenia intake, Millenia TB, SSAutochrome V2 headers, Magnaflow cat, 2 1/4 in pipe, Top Speed Pro 1 muffler, 9lb Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, Corksport SS clutch line, Corksport SS brake lines, Unorthadox UDP, 255 lph fuel pump, HEI mod, ghetto-charger intake, KL36 ECU, SRD transverse crossmember bushings, SRD shifter extention bushing, SRD crossmember, Corksport bronzoil shifter bushings, Brembo Crossdrilled and Slotted rotors, 15 inch Konig Heliums, ZX-2 S/R struts, Eibach lowering springs, OEM front strut bar, Ebay rear strut bar, BFGoodrich G-Force T/A KDWs
Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
http://www.cardomain.com/id/blazejeremy
Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
http://www.cardomain.com/id/blazejeremy
- PATDIESEL
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Re: KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
I see that alot of peple are saying that the ZE will have emission passing problems. However, I just pasted mine in July. The ZE got better numbers than my K8 ever got and I've owned the K8 since 33K miles. My ZE is running with out an EGR and has basic mods: intake, header, etc. As for which will last longer, that is an impossible ? to answer. You will get a used motor either way and the number of miles and the condition of the motor will determine it's life. As for which would last longer from new, probably the same amount of time. B/C the differences between the motors are not the weaknesses of either motor. Meaning that they share the same weaknesses- using the K8 disty, cam friction gear noise, HLA noise, vaccum leaks.
I'd suggest that you try and get the motor from somewhere that you can go and pick one out to ensure that you get the best one. If that is possible.
I'd suggest that you try and get the motor from somewhere that you can go and pick one out to ensure that you get the best one. If that is possible.
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
Re: KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
Thanks for all the feedback guys....and sorry for the delay in responding.
Basically it sounds like the ZE would be just about as serviceable and last as long as a DE...it would simply cost a bit more up front. I've got no problem with that, so I'm guessing I'll go for the ZE when it comes time.
As was mentioned, the condition of the engine I get as a replacement will have the greatest overall effect on engine life. It sounds like A-SPEC is able to supply the engines themselves as well as doing the work for the swap. Anyone dealt with them for an engine swap before or know the quality of the engines they source?
Basically it sounds like the ZE would be just about as serviceable and last as long as a DE...it would simply cost a bit more up front. I've got no problem with that, so I'm guessing I'll go for the ZE when it comes time.
As was mentioned, the condition of the engine I get as a replacement will have the greatest overall effect on engine life. It sounds like A-SPEC is able to supply the engines themselves as well as doing the work for the swap. Anyone dealt with them for an engine swap before or know the quality of the engines they source?
'93 MX-3 GS
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Re: KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
I got mine done there.
a few things. Ask for a curved neck intake manifold. Do not let them put your stock k8 manifold on in place of it.
Make sure they use the ZE ecu and the 1.8 VAF (or) the 2.5 (US spec) ecu, and the 2.5 VAF or even the 1.8 ecu and the 1.8 vaf (though I hear this is the worst for gas mileage of the 3). When I recieved my car, it had my original k8 intake manifold on (the engine they orded was a straight neck) and they, for some reason put the 2.5 US spec ecu with my 1.8 vaf which does not work properly, throws egr codes etc...
If you do get it done I recomment there 6 copper puck clutch, or buy one of your choice and have it done at the same time.
a few things. Ask for a curved neck intake manifold. Do not let them put your stock k8 manifold on in place of it.
Make sure they use the ZE ecu and the 1.8 VAF (or) the 2.5 (US spec) ecu, and the 2.5 VAF or even the 1.8 ecu and the 1.8 vaf (though I hear this is the worst for gas mileage of the 3). When I recieved my car, it had my original k8 intake manifold on (the engine they orded was a straight neck) and they, for some reason put the 2.5 US spec ecu with my 1.8 vaf which does not work properly, throws egr codes etc...
If you do get it done I recomment there 6 copper puck clutch, or buy one of your choice and have it done at the same time.
Tom Alexander
93 MX3 GSR - KLZE / stage 3 clutch / PRM Intake / 2.25" exhaust - dual 3" outlet
full custom black and red interior / KLZE ECU / JE50 VAF
http://home.cogeco.ca/~mx3/ - updated dec 1/03
93 MX3 GSR - KLZE / stage 3 clutch / PRM Intake / 2.25" exhaust - dual 3" outlet
full custom black and red interior / KLZE ECU / JE50 VAF
http://home.cogeco.ca/~mx3/ - updated dec 1/03
Re: KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
Hey, thanks for all the recommendations. Question: how long did it take A-SPEC to perform the swap for you?
'93 MX-3 GS
- papa roached
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Re: KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
you can run the 1.8 ecu and KL-DE vaf too
93 MX-3 GS (collecting parts for Eunos Presso conversion), 94 626 Transmission (4.10 gears), KL31 camed KL-ZE, Millenia intake, Millenia TB, SSAutochrome V2 headers, Magnaflow cat, 2 1/4 in pipe, Top Speed Pro 1 muffler, 9lb Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, Corksport SS clutch line, Corksport SS brake lines, Unorthadox UDP, 255 lph fuel pump, HEI mod, ghetto-charger intake, KL36 ECU, SRD transverse crossmember bushings, SRD shifter extention bushing, SRD crossmember, Corksport bronzoil shifter bushings, Brembo Crossdrilled and Slotted rotors, 15 inch Konig Heliums, ZX-2 S/R struts, Eibach lowering springs, OEM front strut bar, Ebay rear strut bar, BFGoodrich G-Force T/A KDWs
Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
http://www.cardomain.com/id/blazejeremy
Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
http://www.cardomain.com/id/blazejeremy
Re: KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
what about the 2.5 j-spec ecu and the 2.5 VAF?
- papa roached
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- Joined: December 10th, 2002, 2:01 am
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Re: KLZE vs. KLDE - Practical Considerations
the J-Spec ECU in japan runs with your JE50 on our cars already
93 MX-3 GS (collecting parts for Eunos Presso conversion), 94 626 Transmission (4.10 gears), KL31 camed KL-ZE, Millenia intake, Millenia TB, SSAutochrome V2 headers, Magnaflow cat, 2 1/4 in pipe, Top Speed Pro 1 muffler, 9lb Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, Corksport SS clutch line, Corksport SS brake lines, Unorthadox UDP, 255 lph fuel pump, HEI mod, ghetto-charger intake, KL36 ECU, SRD transverse crossmember bushings, SRD shifter extention bushing, SRD crossmember, Corksport bronzoil shifter bushings, Brembo Crossdrilled and Slotted rotors, 15 inch Konig Heliums, ZX-2 S/R struts, Eibach lowering springs, OEM front strut bar, Ebay rear strut bar, BFGoodrich G-Force T/A KDWs
Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
http://www.cardomain.com/id/blazejeremy
Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
http://www.cardomain.com/id/blazejeremy