2.5 swap .........won't start

fieval79 · Post by **fieval79** » August 8th, 2004, 12:42 pm

i just finished putting in a 2.5 in my 3. However.....there are some plugs that I can't figure out where in the hell they go......the motor won't fire up....it turns over, gets fuel...gets spark, but won't fire up. I can't get anybody to come help me.....and it's really starting to bug the hell out of me.

The plug I can't figure out is this: There is a one coming from under the IM (pt says it's the knock sensor), but I can't get my damn plug to reach it. Mine is on the passenger side, and this one is on the drivers side. I tried taking the IM completely off, and putting mine on. Ecxept a bolt rounded off and I can't get the 2.5 IM off of the motor now......

HELP????? PLEASE ?????

Mnemonic · Post by **Mnemonic** » August 8th, 2004, 1:24 pm

yep thats the knock sensor, what we did is pulled the IM off (off cource my motor was completely appart) and just reloacated it to the driver side wo that it would plug in to the stock harness. If you cant do that, you can splice more wiring into your oringinal harness to make it long enough to reach where it sits now, but if you do this you need to use the same wire size as the stock harness and i would suggest saudering(sp) the wires togeather to make sure you get a connection.

fieval79 · Post by **fieval79** » August 8th, 2004, 2:05 pm

thanks

I guess I'm going to have to do that anyways......I just noticed the the plug on the 2.5 has a wire that is broken...... i pulled back the cover and it looks like a single wire with another wire wrapped around it? I didn't pull it back too far though....can I just eliminate the plugs all together and run straight wire?

Mnemonic · Post by **Mnemonic** » August 8th, 2004, 3:36 pm

you could do that, i would just wire the plugs up, that away if you ever have a short you have less of a risk of destroying the knock sensor

Macen · Post by **Macen** » August 31st, 2004, 5:41 pm

Did it help? Did the engine start? I have the same problem after my swap, and I also couldn't find any knock sensor on the passengers side. So when I'm back in the garage on thursday, I will try to reach the connector in some way. Or should I use the KL wiring harness instead? Then I don't have to relocate the knock sensor connector to fit the K8 harness.

[ August 31, 2004, 06:12 PM: Message edited by: Macen ]

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » September 1st, 2004, 12:40 am

I think you'd have to get a J-spec wiring harness to ge tthe knock sensor plug on the other side. As for splicing the two wires to a no-connector fit, I wouldn't. One day you'll need to take the manifold off and have to cut the wire and wire the plugs in anyway. Also the reason that the one wire is wrapped around the other it to avoid any static interference(sp?)You can get that kind of wire if you look for it. Make sure you use the exact same wire size b/c the sensor works off of resistance so changing wire size will mess with the resisitance of the wire. When soldering make sure to use silver solder, it is for sensitive electrical connections.

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » September 1st, 2004, 12:51 am

as an after thought, if you don't know how to solder very well I'll give you a quick lesson.
1. allways use the proper wire size and type. Try to color match when possible to keep confusion to a minimum.
2. get some shrink wrap for wiring, use the proper size for the wire you are splicing (Home Depot or Radio Shack has a good selection of shrink wrap in the Electrical dept.)
3. cut a piece of shrink wrap about 3" long and slide it away from the slodering area as the soldering gun's heat will make it shrink.
4. strip the wires about 1" on boths sides
5. untwist both ends of the wire (they come twisted inside of the sheathing)This will ensure that when you twist the wires together that they lock onto eachother
6. Twist the wires together tightly
7. solder the twisted part making sure that solder is on all sides and you should be able to see the wires twist pattern underneath the solder(this is not a case of the more the better, a precise amount is required)(silver solder is sold at Radio Shack and any soldering gun will work, no torches.. this isn't plumbing)
8. slide the shrink wrap over the middle of the solder and heat with a lighter till it is holding snigly to the wires.
9. tape with electrical tape just for good measure.

Finished, Job Well Done

Macen · Post by **Macen** » September 3rd, 2004, 5:07 pm

I tried to connect the two connectors with a wire today, but engine still wouldn't start. Any other suggestions?
Please, I need help!

DJester187 · Post by **DJester187** » September 3rd, 2004, 6:11 pm

perhaps vacuum leak, or like they said it could be a critical sensor. i had the same prob at first too, it was both a vac leak and the thermo sensor wasn't wired correctly. just a thought...

Macen · Post by **Macen** » September 3rd, 2004, 6:18 pm

Thanks! Will re check all hoses and wires tomorrow (night here in Sweden now).

How about the KL EGR? Should I use it or use the one from the K8? I can't find any cable to connect ot the K8 EGR sensor connector. Looks like the connector on the KL EGR is broken, because I can't find that sensor at all. Compared it to this pic: http://www.mkd.cc/egrwireing.jpg
Will the engine start without the EGR connector connected?

Here's a pic of two small hoses. I have connected one of them to the Charocal Canister, and the second I left loose. Is that correct?
<img src="http://www.student.bth.se/~masx02/pic3.jpg" alt=" - " />

Here's another pic of two other hoses (a bit thicker). One is connected to the brake booster, and the second one I just left loose. Is that also correct?
<img src="http://www.student.bth.se/~masx02/pic4.jpg" alt=" - " />

[ September 03, 2004, 05:53 PM: Message edited by: Macen ]

fieval79 · Post by **fieval79** » September 3rd, 2004, 10:13 pm

i got mine started....turns out I had the wrong firing order on the distributor....

I can't tell what that hose is in your pic... I know I didn't have anything left over after I was done.....

With my knock sensor I just removed the IM and pulled it over to the passenger side and put the IM back on. I had to redo the connection because one of the wires was broke off.......I just took the knock sensor wire and plug from the K8 and soldered it to the 2.5 wire where I spliced it.....

papa roached · Post by **papa roached** » September 3rd, 2004, 10:48 pm

could it be the vacume line that goes to the solenoid?

WI2.5MX-3 · Post by **WI2.5MX-3** » September 3rd, 2004, 11:35 pm

In the second picture the hose you have labeled loose goes to the intake tube and the other is a brake booster

Macen · Post by **Macen** » September 4th, 2004, 3:02 am

How about the KL EGR? Should I use it or use the one from the K8? I can't find any cable to connect to the K8 EGR sensor connector. Looks like the connector on the KL EGR is broken, because I can't find that sensor at all. Compared it to this pic: http://www.mkd.cc/egrwireing.jpg
Will the engine start without the EGR connector connected?

fireval79: How did you solve the firing order? And what's the correct firing order for the dist?

[ September 04, 2004, 02:05 AM: Message edited by: Macen ]

Macen · Post by **Macen** » September 4th, 2004, 7:33 pm

She runs now!! We tried adding another ground cable, and then WRAAAAOOOOMMM!! So, we bought some cable and some connectors and grounded the engine. Now she runs like a beast!

MX-3.com

2.5 swap .........won't start

2.5 swap .........won't start

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Re: 2.5 swap .........won't start

Re: 2.5 swap .........won't start

Re: 2.5 swap .........won't start

Re: 2.5 swap .........won't start

Re: 2.5 swap .........won't start

Re: 2.5 swap .........won't start

Re: 2.5 swap .........won't start

Re: 2.5 swap .........won't start

Re: 2.5 swap .........won't start

Re: 2.5 swap .........won't start