KL - DE

[hgallegos915]

This is super interesting.. my 86 maxima had 160 hp but that thing was heavy..over 3000 lbs..around 3500.. im assuming we are lighter..i tought the maxima was fast..WOW ui cant imagine this car with 160 (since i cant get the ze for now.

-hec

[IanL]

Originally posted by Macen:
I will get the engine from a 626. Is there anything better with a newer engine (except that it is new)? Found one from 1993 for $650 (180000km) and one from 1996 for $1000 (152000km). But maybe it's better the find an engine with good compression than a newer one?

Those kms look high - if you do put one of those in, be sure to change the belts (particularly cambelt), inspect/change belt tensioners, change water pump and maybe the alternator - save a lot of grief later. I'd do the valve cover gaskets as well, the rear one is a b... to change when it's in the car.

Yes, go by compression rather than kms - you can believe the compression tester, but not the speedo. As for year, I suppose the main issue is seals. I'd change the output shaft oil seal when putting the new clutch in.

I think the best source of a KL is a Millenia/Xedos 9, if you can find one. It is less likely to have been hammered by a "spirited" driver.

<small>[ August 11, 2004, 02:54 AM: Message edited by: IanL ]</small>

[Tempus]

Yeah, go by compression.

If getting stuff from a wrecking yard, see if you can make sure to get the entire intake.. including throttle body, and airflow sensor, and also the ECU, then you can use that whole 'system'

otherwise you might end up using those parts off your existing engine, and the intake will be a little restricted, which will limit performance at higher rpm's..

People seem to have had mixed results with 'mixing' those parts (intake, tb, VAF, ECU) than with using either the entire 'K8' set of parts, or the entire KL setup..

[Macen]

Well, it's very hard to find an engine with low km's here. It's also hard to find a Xedos 9, they are also high km's.
Of course I will change the cambelt, and also waterpump.
Thanks for letting me know about the valve cover gasket, will change that one too then.

ECU and VAF isn't included with the engine, but I will try to get them aswell.

EDIT: Found an engine from 1995 with 159000km. 12.5-13kg compression. ECU and VAF included. Price: $1100
Think I will take that one. Nice compression and quite low km's. And also a quite new engine. Hope once again that there will be no problem with an engine from 95 when my car is from 93.

<small>[ August 12, 2004, 04:03 AM: Message edited by: Macen ]</small>

[Tempus]

I don't know where you are, but here in the states, the 92 and 93 engines were nearly identical, and used the OBDC-I computer.. The later engines used OBDC-II and I think have some sensors slightly different. So there might be a few things you need to transfer over from the old engine..

[IanL]

Originally posted by Macen:
ECU and VAF isn't included with the engine, but I will try to get them aswell.

EDIT: Found an engine from 1995 with 159000km. 12.5-13kg compression. ECU and VAF included. Price: $1100
Think I will take that one. Nice compression and quite low km's. And also a quite new engine. Hope once again that there will be no problem with an engine from 95 when my car is from 93.

Your car is OBDI, but the ECU from a 95 car is OBDII, so don't get that one. Get a 94 or earlier ECU. Keep your K8 distributor, because the 95 disty is wired differently, or you can use the 95 disty and swap the 3 wires into the 3 pin connector - see this post .

The other difference is that the 95 model has four O2 sensors, but you should keep your K8 exhaust manifold with two O2 sensors, so that will not be an issue.

[Macen]

That engine dosen't have any dist, so I will use the one from my K8. Sad that I can't use the ECU, but thanks for letting me know.

Tempus: I'm from Sweden.

EDIT: Luckely I have now found a Xedos 9 from -93 on the same wreckyard, so maybe I can get the ECU from that one instead. That engine has worse compression so I will still stay to the -95 engine.

<small>[ August 13, 2004, 04:02 AM: Message edited by: Macen ]</small>

[IanL]

Originally posted by Macen:
Luckely I have now found a Xedos 9 from -93 on the same wreckyard, so maybe I can get the ECU from that one instead.

That may be ok, but it could give fault codes because it is an ATX-only ECU (that certainly is true of the KL62 ECUs, but not sure about the OBDI). Keep looking for a OBDI MX-6, V6 626 or Probe ECU.

<small>[ August 13, 2004, 02:49 AM: Message edited by: IanL ]</small>

[Macen]

No, the Xedos 9 here in Sweden that I have found has a 5 speed manual tranny.

Any other gaskets I need except the valve cover gaskets?

Got my tax money back today, so I will place my order at Corksport now

<small>[ August 13, 2004, 04:05 AM: Message edited by: Macen ]</small>

[IanL]

Originally posted by Macen:
No, the Xedos 9 here in Sweden that I have found has a 5 speed manual tranny.

Any other gaskets I need except the valve cover gaskets?

Lucky I have never heard of a MTX Xedos 9. Should be good.

Water pump O-seal and gasket. How about the exhaust pipe to manifold gaskets?

[Macen]

Isn't the O-seal and gasket for the waterpump included in a new one?
Will get the exhaust pipe gasket too. Thanks
Guess I will have to change the O-seal to the distributor also?

Well, according to the wreckyard it's a manual Xedos 9

[rebel2k4]

I didnt change my disty o-ring and I didnt have any probs.

I got a KLDE with 130k miles (somewhat high) but it had about 160 psi across the board. It is now boosted and pulls very strong.

As far as ECU's, if you have a 94 MX3 you must get the KL48 ecu (94 PGT or MX6). All the other earlier years have that extra coolant temp sensor, you will get a CEL and your fans will never turn on.

[PATDIESEL]

Uh... you better change the front and rear main seals while you have the opportunity. Can't believe that none of you suggested that by now. Geesh! Other than that you sound pretty good to go. If you end up changing the water necks, or pulling it to drill and tap, then you need to replace the O rings that are on either end too.


I hate to brag, but you don't have to do $H1T to the motor mounts to get the ZE straight neck to fit. All you have to do is modify the throttle cable pulley so that it will fit and turn beside the brake fluid resevoir. I'd also suggest some MS motor mounts (poly filled) and I also chained the front mount to ensure it CAN'T get to the fluid resevoir.

<small>[ August 14, 2004, 12:01 AM: Message edited by: PATDIESEL ]</small>

[Macen]

Front and rear main seals? Where are those located?

[PATDIESEL]

At either ends of the crank shaft, hehe. on the outside look for a round brown seal behind the crank pulley (Front) and under the flywheel (rear)Just around the crank, you'll see just the end of it on both sides.