Is that hard to do?Originally posted by MX3-Freak:
If you want a sharp brake pedal feel, you need to change your brake lines from rubber to braided stainless. Have fun
Standard brakes in Mx-3
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Re: Standard brakes in Mx-3
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Re: Standard brakes in Mx-3
Nope, the change over to stainless lines only took me about 1 hour. 30 minutes to change the lines and 30 more to bleed all four lines. Definately much more brake feel and no brake fade. Also rubber lines will "balloon" (expand when you brake hard)This usually won't happen untill your lines are 5+ years old and it will decrease brake power. Make sure that when you bleed the system that you do it properly or you are just wasting time and brake fluid.
1. put a 8mm wrench on the bleeder valve
2. connect a piece of hose that just fits the bleeder vavle and run it to a can to hold used brake fluid.
3. Make sure that you have plenty of fluid so you don't run out when bleeding and check often to keep it full during bleeding or you'll put air in the brake lines and ruin the whole process.
4. one person in the car to push the brake pedal and one to work the bleeder vavle at each brake.
5. the person at the bleeder vavle will call out to the person at the pedal when he is ready.
1. pedal guy pumps brake pedal untill it barely goes down
2. bleeder guy opens vavle untill the pedal guy tells him when the pedal is close to the ground, then he closes it before the pedal reaches the ground.
3. pedal guy pumps the brake pedal untill it won't go down and we start over.
The valve guy needs to watch the fluid go through the tube and watch for any air bubles. When you have bled 3-4 times and seen no air you should be good to move to the next brake. Usually 5-7 times before you are ready.
Also no one has said that when you do a brake job you need to clean the slides and relube them with brake grease to keep them sliding well. If you don't do this they will stick.
1. put a 8mm wrench on the bleeder valve
2. connect a piece of hose that just fits the bleeder vavle and run it to a can to hold used brake fluid.
3. Make sure that you have plenty of fluid so you don't run out when bleeding and check often to keep it full during bleeding or you'll put air in the brake lines and ruin the whole process.
4. one person in the car to push the brake pedal and one to work the bleeder vavle at each brake.
5. the person at the bleeder vavle will call out to the person at the pedal when he is ready.
1. pedal guy pumps brake pedal untill it barely goes down
2. bleeder guy opens vavle untill the pedal guy tells him when the pedal is close to the ground, then he closes it before the pedal reaches the ground.
3. pedal guy pumps the brake pedal untill it won't go down and we start over.
The valve guy needs to watch the fluid go through the tube and watch for any air bubles. When you have bled 3-4 times and seen no air you should be good to move to the next brake. Usually 5-7 times before you are ready.
Also no one has said that when you do a brake job you need to clean the slides and relube them with brake grease to keep them sliding well. If you don't do this they will stick.
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Re: Standard brakes in Mx-3
Ordered 1500ml of Motul RBF600 brake fluid. Heard that it should be very good.
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Re: Standard brakes in Mx-3
I bought the good pads from a-zone and am not happy with them. They are not a good street pad. They take to much heat to work well. If the brakes are cold- which is 90% of the time - it takes LOTS of pedal pressure to stop the car. Once you do a hard stop with them and get some heat into the pads they work great.Originally posted by Mnemonic:
Not many cars feel to confident slowing down at 120mph infact when ive gotten up to speeds like that i let the engine slow me down then ill use my brakes.Originally posted by valdigre:
Braking from 120 mph (200 km) or from much smaller speeds just doesn't feel confident.
And you can by ceramic brake pads at autozone for the mx3. They work better than organic or metalic. i wouldnt expect buying the 16 dollar brake pads (not saying you did) from autozone to be that great.
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99 Subaru Impreza RS, the new toy
91 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD *RIP*
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Re: Standard brakes in Mx-3
PATDIESEL: I changed brake fluid yesterday. Didn't get it right, becuase I have to push the pedal ~80% to get any brake power. And I think what we did wrong. I think I had the valve open too long, and the pedal guy reached the bottom before I closed the valve.
I also tried to "pump up preasure" when engine is runinng. But after every "pump" it just feels the same, and I can't get any preasure. Can it be the master brake cylinder that is bad? Is it hard to replace? And how much do it cost?
<small>[ July 22, 2004, 02:21 PM: Message edited by: Macen ]</small>
I also tried to "pump up preasure" when engine is runinng. But after every "pump" it just feels the same, and I can't get any preasure. Can it be the master brake cylinder that is bad? Is it hard to replace? And how much do it cost?
<small>[ July 22, 2004, 02:21 PM: Message edited by: Macen ]</small>
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Re: Standard brakes in Mx-3
Thinking of buying new brake lines. Should I buy CORK SPORT SS Brake Line Kit or GOODRIDGE G-Stop Brake Line Kit? Goodridge costs $10 more.
Re: Standard brakes in Mx-3
hi Macen buy the goodridge brakelines I heard they fit perfect and you can get them with a TÜV certificate. dont know if it is required in Sweden but in Denmark its often needed to keep the car street legal.
<small>[ July 23, 2004, 06:39 PM: Message edited by: SIXPACK ]</small>
<small>[ July 23, 2004, 06:39 PM: Message edited by: SIXPACK ]</small>
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