car dies at 70 mph

[mazdamxstyle]

This is really wierd, first of all I just got timing belt and water pump replaced, also I just put in a new distributor cap and rotor thats really all that Ive messed with. Car runs perfectly fine no problems at all. but earlier today I was on the freeway doing about 70 just regular driving maintaining my speed and instantly like in .2 seconds the tach dropped to 0 rpms and the car was shutoff. So I pulled to the side of the freeway and tried to turn the key right away the car stumbled and wouldnt start it would be trying to turn over but never "catch" I gave it about 10 seconds tried again and it started right up no problems so I took off and went back on the freeway. I wanted to see if it would do it again so I went 70 for a minute or so and sure enough it happened again. But it started right up again. Ive had timing belt done for 2 days, but also last night I was going 70 on the freeway and this didnt happen. Im thinking its electrical not timing, but not sure. Any help? thanks!

[Len-Dogg]

My girlfriend's car did that kind of thing when the airflow sensor was starting to go bad.

[mazdamxstyle]

hmmm ya I was thinking MAF, maybe its not connected good enough, I wonder why it just does it at 70 mph though? hrm

[quicksliver]

There is a problem with you're distributor. Id' go back to the mechanic and tell him what happened. He should take another look at it..

[mazdamxstyle]

my dad put on a new cap and rotor, I'll take a look at it.

[Gro Harlem]

I hightly doubt it is ignition, if anything it is fuel related. Maybe your fuel pump is going bad, or the fuse/relay for it is bad. Also the connection could be loose, you can pull your rear cushion off and check this easily. <p>And the airflow meter connection is also a possibilty but unlikely, especially if the car runs with no problems (when it is running). If the connection was loose, it'd bog or sound very odd when it was revved. <p>There is no way it could be your timing belt.....if that broke, your engine wouldn't run at all, and if it jumped a tooth, you'd notice a major decrease in power, and the engine would run strangely.<p>if your distributor did go bad, the engine wouldn't start at all, just crank. Distributors don't decide to go bad then work again, they fry out and need replacement. (this has left me stranded before).

[mazdamxstyle]

alright thanks for the advice, one questions though, what and where is the rear cushion? Becuase your right, I really dont think its electrical or my MAF since my car runs perfectly normal. The other thing thats making me lean towards fuel is that after the car dies out and I pull off to the side of the freeway I turn the key right after I stop and it makes the engine turning sound but doesnt start. So I give it about 10 seconds then turn the key again and it runs perfectly so I take off and go and drive no higher than 68 mph. Im gonna drive about 80 and see if it does it there, although that wont really tell me anything. Thanks again

[IanL]

The rear cushion is what the rear seat passenger(s) sit on Just lift the front up to disengage the two metal clips from the plastic sockets, then pull forward to remove. When you put it back, make sure the clips are lined up, or you can damage the plastic sockets, like I did <p>Hope you find the problem !<p>[ July 15, 2003: Message edited by: IanL ]</p>

[mazdamxstyle]

Im pretty sure now that its my distributor but before I replace that or decide what Im gonna do next (maybe and engine swap, everythings breaking on mine) I want to check the fuel inertia switch. AKA the cut-off switch. Is it just the 2 wire harnesses under the rear seat? If so do you just unplug them and put them back together? Or is there an actualy switch that needs to be turned off or on?