performance chip

[pickinganame]

has any one tryed this and is this a good idea?jet chip

[Hy300]

Wouldn't be worth the money in my opinion. What do you want from it, performance or economy?<p>If you want performance you could probably get better results for much less if you play your cards right.

[pickinganame]

how would i get off better for much less with performance?

[Hy300]

Performance wise, there are a number of cheap things that can be done that are reversible<p>One is to adjust the voltage of your TPS higher and trick the computer into using more fuel. A similar thing is to use a switch to ground the PRC solenoid and effectively cause the engine to run the injectors at max psi (I believe 43psi). A test pipe can change the whole tone of your exhaust and reduce backpressure, effectively allowing for better exhaust flow and more power at higher RPM. The benefit of a test pipe is that it is removable, replacable with your catalytic convertor for if you need emissions testing, and cheap. If you feel up to it you can attempt to do a simple porting of your intake manifold.<p>All of those things can cost less than a hundred dollars and provide results you can feel, and see if you ever go to a track. I'm not guaranteeing a one second drop in 1/4mile time. I'm saying that there will be a benefit however.

[pickinganame]

hey you got any step by step direction for those things be much appreciated

[Hy300]

I'll let you know when I get home. I'm at school right now and can't check my wiring.

[pickinganame]

hey just email it to me in easyest form so i can understand thanks virusman76@hotmail.com

[monstar-mx-3]

HY300- Can you email that information too?

[Hy300]

If I was feeling better this afternoon I would have, sorry guys, I must be catching something. I'll make a few wiring notes before I go into school tomorrow and try to make a good write up during some of my long study periods.<p>[ May 13, 2003: Message edited by: Hy300 ]</p>

[chance]

putting together a homemade intake and doing a little weight reduction are also ways to get a noticable quicker ET.

[Hy300]

Alright, let me see if I can describe the procedure well enough for others to understand.<p>First of all, lets begin with the TPS sensor. This is something that should always be in tune. The settings will change over time as circuits become weak and the output of the sensor will change as well and affect your engine.<p>The first thing you should do is look at your throttle body. On the left side of the throttle body you will see a black sensor protruding and a plug with five wires connecting to it. The second wire down from the top is green with a yellow stripe, this is what you need to work on. You need to read the voltage of this wire without cutting it. To do this you a wire tap you can buy from an Autozone or the like. Clip the tap over the wire and turn the engine to the ON position but do no start. Using the multimeter, set it to DC volts so that you can read to hundreths, 0.00v. Ground the multimeter on the battery ground and use the positive contact to touch the metal strip of your wire tap. Now you should be able to read a voltage on the multimeter.<p>I've good everyday results at 0.69v. In order to adjust the voltage you'll need a 7mm socket and patience. On the top and the bottom of the TPS sensor there are two 7mm nuts. Loosen them both just slightly, so that you can rotate the sensor gently, but it won't move on it's own. Remove any hoses that might be in your way if you need to, be sure to return them to their proper place afterward. You should be able to watch the voltage on the multimeter while you carefully rotate your TPS sensor. You will notice the voltage will slowly rise or fall depending upon rotation. When you think you find the correct voltage then tighten the top nut on the TPS so that it will no longer move, check the voltage again, then tighten the other nut.<p>Return everything to the way it was and take it out for a drive. I would suggest starting at 0.75v and trying increments of 0.05, then fine tuning to a voltage you like. The TPS settings will affect your idle and most likely raise it to or above 1000rpm. Fortunately, this whole process is reversible.<p>Multimeters can be bought cheaply at Multimeter Warehouse. If this sounds complicated then I'll try to get pictures some time, though I suck at HTML so you'll have to put up with a Cardomain site.

[Hy300]

Now, for the easy job, the PRC solenoid.<p>The PRC solenoid, very simply, regulates the fuel pressure by allowing the intake manifold vacuum to reach the FPR. By grounding the PRC solenoid the FPR receives no vacuum from the intake manifold and will run at 41psi.<p>In order to do this though you need to find the wire which connects the PRC solenoid to the ECU. I'll simplify that for you though. Look at your VAF and the plug connecting to it. Remove your intake and disconnect that plug so that you have plenty of room to work with. Now, follow the wires of that plug a few inches, you will see two wires branching away from the others. These wires should be White w/ Red stripe and Green w/ Orange stripe.<p>The key here is to connect a wire tap to the Green & Orange wire ONLY. I have to stress this, the White & Red wire are for your fuel injection, if you ground this wire then you will burn out your Fuel Injection fuse. Using your wire tap on the Green & Orange wire, tap into it a second wire. Extend this second wire along a path of your choice to the fire wall, there will be a hole on the right side of the master cylinder which will come out behind and below the gauge cluster. Now, secure this wire away from others and connect it to a toggle switch. On the other connection of the toggle switch run a third wire to the frame, this will be your ground.<p>Now, whenever the toggle switch is turned on the PRC solenoid will be grounded. I suggest using a simple toggle switch without an LED to prevent draw from the current. More information about the PRC solenoid can be found Here. The same wire that you first tap into runs from the ECU as well, I just haven't bothered to find it as the bundle of wires taunts me. If you find which wire this is then things would be much simpler.<p>Thanks to Luc St-Pierre for his wonderful site and information I needed to perform this modification. Keep up the good work on the GSR.

[Wirespeed]

What sort of performance gains (bhp) can you expect to get from these modifications and what sort of extra stress does it put on the engine?

[nolimits865]

Will these mods work for the K8?

[mazdamaniac]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Wirespeed:
What sort of performance gains (bhp) can you expect to get from these modifications and what sort of extra stress does it put on the engine?<hr></blockquote><p>None and none.<p>The TPS adjustment scheme that is posted here is not the Mazda indicated procedure. That said, it has helped some people regain some power lost to a misadjusted or failing TPS.
The voltages indicated in this mod are NOT spec. Use the proper method outlined in the shop manula. Done correctly, this will yield the most power.<p>Raising fuel pressure will just waste gas. The ECU will add/subtract fuel in closed loop regardless of your mods or fuel pressure. At WOT, the pressure regulator is seeing atmospheric pressure, anyway - the same thing as removing the solenoid from the loop.
If you have added significant manifold pressure (turbo or supercharger) this mod will not be enough.<p>I'm a bit tired of seeing voodoo like this put out as a "mod" or performance increase.
Often, things like this either address an existing performance issue on a vehicle or produce drivability changes that are perceived as an increase in power, but aren't.
Neither of the mods listed here will actually increase power as measured on a dyno. Period.