Tick while turning

[Leo_Rivard]

Im cold when it comes to troubleshooting cars and dont know if this exactly is where I should post this.<P>When I am just sitting idle and I turn my steering wheel, I am getting a constant "ticking" sound from the right from wheel. Ive checked all fluid levels and thevery basics, nothing SEEMS out of place, but what do I know, Im a computer technician Any ideas ???<P>Thanks

[VizualXTC]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Leo_Rivard:<BR><STRONG>Im cold when it comes to troubleshooting cars and dont know if this exactly is where I should post this.<P>When I am just sitting idle and I turn my steering wheel, I am getting a constant "ticking" sound from the right from wheel. Ive checked all fluid levels and thevery basics, nothing SEEMS out of place, but what do I know, Im a computer technician Any ideas ???<P>Thanks</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>My guess would be your CV joints. I'd get a pref. to check it out tho.

[Q187]

Does it happen when you turn while your driving too?

[back alley]

yep!

[OsoSlo z28]

yeah, it sounds like your cv joint. turn your wheel all the way to the right and check the boot from the axle to the wheel. if it's ripped, then that's your problem. what happens is the rubber on the boot dryrots and rips which lets dirt and other crap get in there.

[Leo_Rivard]

yea, ive heard it while driving, it is a little to quiet to really hear it over the engine but it is there. Thanks for the help guys

[ssmog]

It is definately the CV Joint that is making those noises you hear. I have worked on many Mazdas that had the same problem. I am even going out to my shop tonight to change the right outer-most CV Joint on my MX-3. You had better get it replaced ASAP. If you let it go too long it will eventually let go thus freezing your wheel while driving. Most time when it does jam up the wheel will immediatey crank to the right possibly causing an accident.

[Q187]

I tried replacing mine a few months back. Mazda gave me the wrong damn kind and I didn't figure that out till I had the whole damn suspension taken apart. I just ended up packing it full of grease and used some awesome glue to patch the boot back up. It didn't click for a while but it's starting to again. Don't go to mazda for them. They're half the price at autozone. And maybe they'll give you the right kind! <p>[ February 18, 2002: Message edited by: Q187 ]

[Leo_Rivard]

does anyone know if its a fairly simple procedure, i got the shop manuals and stuff but like i said, im a IT guy not a mechanic im fairly confident in doing if its not too bad of a job but if i should take it to someone please lemme know.. thanks people

[A.S.]

DO your homework, get a buddy to help and go for it.

[pelado]

Check your yellow pages. Any town of decent size should have a shop specializing in re-building CV joints. The small difference in cost between me taking them out and them taking them out (and putting back) convinced me to let the shop do the dirty stuff.

[Kronos]

May be a little late, but i had the same exact problem in my car, when ever i made a left turn slowly i'd hear it tick. They told me it was the Axles, 450 dollars later at Meineke. It was fix'd, So i thought. . . Now the same exact noise is back.I talked to the manager about it, he gave me a round-a-bout story. Then I talked to a friend about it, he said to take it to a different person to get it checked out..and it could be a totally different problem?. . . but i think 450 dollars was alot to pay for a couple hours labor + axles (around 200 dollars? if not cheaper)

[Kronos]

Around 200 for the axles, than add 2 hours labor

[jasonbierschwale]

Just did this tonight in about 30 minutes. Go to Autozone, buy CV joint/Halfshaft for $79.99 plus $50.00 core (for left side, not sure about right). It comes with a new spindle nut. Also rent 32mm spindle socket from Autozone...$15 (refundable upon return of tool). You will also need a macpherson strut compressor (also rentable from autozone) I use a c-clamp, but this is dangerous and not recommended unless you know what you are doing and understand you could lose some fingers in the process. Jack the car up and pull the wheel off. Use the strut compressor to compress the spring. Remove the spindle nut with the rented socket. Remove the two bolts attaching the spindle to the strut. Remove the brake caliper and suspend it with a coat hanger or something similar. Remove the rotor. Pull the spindle away from the car (it will lean out and toward the rear). You will probably need to tap (TAP) the axle through the spindle. Once it is clear, move it to the side and let the spindle relax where it wants to. Now comes the difficult part. There are three bolts holding the yoke(probably not the name... the bearing that hold the axle to the engine block). You need to remove all three in order to free the axle. Now jerk on the axle until it comes free. To install the new axle, reverse the procedure... be careful not to damage the rubber seal around the opening in the tranny when inserting the new axle or removing the old one. You will spill some tranny fluid in the process. You'll need to replace it before driving the car for any distance. make sure you put a divot in the spindle nut over the slit in the ende of the axel, or you'll have a rude surprise within the next 100 miles. <P>If you don't know enough about cars to know what a bad CV joint sounds like (no offense intended, I'm a computer superfreak too...) I would make sure and have a automotive savvy buddy around. They can usually be enticed with the promise of free cerveza...<P>There is a service manual scanned into this site...make use of it! It walks you through the whole process quite clearly. Good luck!<P>Jason