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I really wish my 1st gear was taller. I dont mind where the other gears are; i dont want a taller final drive. But 1st is slushy because there is so little load that boost will hardly build.

My car can leap over traffic because there is no spoon

***EDIT: No, this b6 sohc can handle 8psi boost and aggressive timing because there is no spoon

So, yesterday, I removed the stock cat and flex pipe. Why the flex pipe? Because of how much it chokes down at the entrance and exit.

http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr203/wheelhop_photos/MX-3/restrictiveexhaust.jpg

I was able to swap in some straight pipe and a section of generic stainless ...

Well, I have had a few days to log and change and log (with equipment supposedly I do not have ;) ).

One thing I did was get a good run with the car back when it had just the long tube cold air intake, aem filter element, 14 degrees advance (vs. stock 10 degrees), flowthrough muffler. . . OK. . . I ...

-- "This is where things really start sounding miss informed... Especially your comment "When warm, you see the cycling as the ecu is searching for stoich."... This comment in its self is wrong... The O2 sensor does not cycle because the ecu is searching for stoich... The O2 sensor cycles because it ...

Absolutely Killerbee, the narrow band is only for reading if you're richer than 14.7 or leaner. Even if you ran a wide band and saw where the narrow band voltage settled at a particular a/f ratio, when you up the boost, that voltage would no longer mean you're at that a/f ratio because of the change ...

"Narrow band O2 sensors have no clue what stoich is"???? They bounce back and forth (because of the ecu) around stoich, which is 14.7:1 and that corresponds to around 0.45V. The ecu switchs right at the narrowband's stoich a/f ratio reading searching for the "happy" ratio.

Better fuel economy ...

Concerning the nature of the Mazda ecu:

When you start cold, the o2 naturally won't cycle. When warm, you see the cycling as the ecu is searching for stoich. When you stop the engine and restart the ecu goes back into open loop regardless of being warm or cold. And it does it for a period of 2-ish ...

Don't bother upgrading fuel rail and lines. Plenty of flow there. Definately, you need a fuel pump upgrade. I ran it with the stock pump and at 3psi with the FMU turned all the way up, it still was running WAY too lean. I suggest going my rout with the BEGi 2025 FMU and a walbro 255hp fuel pump. You ...

Well, per the compressor map, and assuming the engine VE of the SOHC B6 is around 85%, that puts the airflow at over 16lb/min. For low compression turbo ready motors, that is about 160 crank horsepower at 18 degrees timing at peak. The naturally aspirated B6 runs about 1 to 1.5 higher in compression ...

Yea, those were the original plugs when I bought it. I swapped in some NGK plugs that are a stage colder. Which is the 6's. Factory replacement are 5's.

****EDIT: The number for the NGK plugs in her now are BKR6E-11.

Here's a plot of the B6-ME on the 13g compressor map.

http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr203/wheelhop_photos/B6-MEplottedon13gcompressormap.jpg

The 13g compressor works quite nicely for the B6 with the spool the td04 5cm^2 turbine gives it. This is at 6psi (1.41PR per the map). The VE is the ...

I realized I was running the BTM at 1psi retard per 1 psi boost and starting at 1 psi of boost. I have the base timing set 14 degrees ad vance, 10 is stock. Thus at 5psi = 4 degrees retard from 14 degrees advance at base, which is 10 degees. Thus I was running stock timing at 5 psi :!: No knock and ...

Some more tweeks. It never had any knock, but I really did not like how long it took the ecu to go to open loop.

How the ecu is behaving:
1) Still trying to find stoich below 3750 rpms at part throttle but full boost, no matter what. :mrgreen:
2) Even when warmed up, if I shut her down and restart ...

She REALLY likes driving it now. I have an AWD DSM.