MX-3.com

As of right now I don't even know what is recommend in my mx-3... My new mazda 3 skyactive take 0w-20 with moly! I buy it straight from mazda for a great deal and OEM filters as well! Not that I have had my car long enough to even come close to a oil change.

I guess I am say what do you guys put in your mx-3's? I am not even sure what is OEM for our cars? Really is putting in OEM a good idea anyway with how far oil has come in over 15 years?

It's really up to you.

The weight you should be using is 10w30, or 5w30 if you're in the cold.
After that, you could use a good conventional oil, like Castrol gtx, and call it a day, or, if you really want to go the extra mile (or if your car asks for it, in the sense that it has a lot of miles, for example), you can go for synthetic, like Mobil 1.
Then, if you REALLY want to go big, I'd recommend a good additive, like ProLong or Z-Max (ProLong is only for the oil, Z-Max comes in 2 bottles: one for the oil, and an injector cleaaner).

So that's about it. Holler if you have any doubts.

Not that the post above wasn't good, but I was hopeing for more of a collection of what everyone was using here and what is OEM for our cars...

There is no OEM brand. I use royal purple myself. On my K8 i had no HLA tick after using it. On my KL i wouldnt know becuase i have the WORST cam gear tick. As far as weight what endoro said is optimal.

On my b6 I used 5w30 conventional, usually Castrol GTX. I've messed around with a few other brands, regular castrol and a few other ones and I noticed that when I did my 5k oil change the oil would be cleaner(minus the first time I used it, where I ran some of that oil cleaner stuff) and that my highway cruising mileage was a bit better(550km to a tank to about 575km to a tank).

I use 5w30 Castrol GTX conventional too in my KLZE V6 and always use purulator filter...

I use castrol full synthetic in my ZE. I have about 65,000km on it and it doesn't burn a drop.

I wouldn't recommend changing over to synthetic if you've been running
conventional oil for the last how ever many 100k's it's been running it.

here's some video's that don't go into scientific details but makes really good points. (watch both)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lshd7WR-a6I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zEBI1QndPo


Oh and I've been running full synthetic mobil 1 5w-30 in my BP, the previous owner also used it since he rebuilt the engine as well.

I typically go with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic, 5w30 in the cold months, and 10w30 in the warm.
5w30 is less likely to tap on cold starts, but both should be tap free after a good warmup.
I'm a huge fan of the "15,000 mile guarantee" stuff, which I usually change at 5-7,000 with good results. At 5,000 it usually comes out looking just as it went in...

If I am tight on money, I sometimes use Castrol full synthetic, as I can pick it up for WAAAY less than the Mobil 1 at a place downtown.

Castrol GTX is just fine and would recommend over Mobil 1 full syn (I used to run this).

I run Amsoil.

Evo_Spec wrote: here's some video's that don't go into scientific details but makes really good points. (watch both)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lshd7WR-a6I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zEBI1QndPo

Yeah.
I'm just gonna make a little bitty comment about the information on those videos:

It's BU11SH!T.

1. It's true that viscosity and flow rate are not the same. KINEMATIC viscosity (which is the kind of viscosity we're talking about here) is the FLOW RATE of a liquid (in this case) through a given opening, under specific circumstances. So, no, if two different oils have the same viscosities, and are operating under the same conditions, one will NOT flow through a crack the other one wouldn't.

2. It's true if you switch to synthetic your engine may get noisy. But that has NOTHING to do with the flow characteristics of either oil. That's because your engine is worn out, and some surfaces were caked over with burnt conventional oil. When you switched to synthetic, which has a much higher detergency than conventional oil, those deposits are washed away, and the engine starts making noise. What you should do is FIX THE ENGINE, instead of covering up the noise with bad oil, and keep living in a dream world, Neo.

3. It's also true that upon switching to synthetic your engine might spring a leaak it didn't show before. But the reason is the same as before: because of the much higher detergent content and quaality in synthetic oils, the leak that WAS THERE BEFORE, but was plugged by crap, now is clean and open. Again, the solution is to fix the problem, not to ignore it.

So that's MY opinion. Same as this guy, I'm not an expert. I'm also talking from personal experience.

I use the slippery kind

I used QuakerState synthetic pretty much for the life of my ZE (102k kms)

I use to use Bear Oil but the car felt very sluggish in the winter months I used amsoil and found I was getting over 50kms more per tank. Now I buy what ever synthetic is on sale. Got Pennzoil synthetic 10w 30 for $19 bucks for 4.8 liters at Wally world.

Hey, old man! I see the nurses at the geezer home finally let you use a computer...

Daninski wrote:I use to use Bear Oil but the car felt very sluggish in the winter months

We're not talking about your Model "T" here...