Please help!!!! KL-DE high rpms

[tbondo]

I am in need of desperate help. I have done a swap from the 1.6 to the 2.5 KL-DE and have narrowed down all my issues except one. I started out running a 93 PGT ecu with a KL02 MAS and a 92 1.8 MX-3 egr valve. Everything seemed to run decent except when I drove the rpms rose rapidly causing me to drive at 30 mph in 5th gear. After doing some looking online at part numbers and realizing why I used the MX-3 egr valve I decided to swap in the one that came with the 97 2.5 KLDE. I made a pigtail adapter harness connecting the wires as follows: black to black, red w/ blk stripe to green and violet to red (second color being the MX-3). Now the engine won't even idle below 2 grand. Has anyone run into this problem? Also I am using the TPS from the 97 KLDE. Could that be causing the problem running an OBD1 ecu? Also I am not getting any engine codes when I do a diagnostic jumper wire scan. Thank you in advance.

[mikeinaus]

your egr valve could be stuck open or it might be wired wrong. or your vacuum lines could be routed wrong.

to test the vale:
with the car off unhook the vacuum line you have running into the egr (on the manifold side).
suck on the vacuum line. you should feel the valve open as you suck. stop sucking and plug the hole with your tongue
does it hold a vacuum? if so the bladder in the valve is good
now suck in and out and see if the valve gets stuck. it should move freely up and down.

vacuum routing for egr solenoids:


to test your wiring/sensor you need a voltmeter. what i did was verify the voltage on the power wire (with the engine running and wires spliced and exposed). if i remember right it should be 5v or 12v. now hook up to the signal wire and suck on the vacuum hose going to the egr. with the valve fully open (sucking) it should read 5v (if i remember right). when you let off the suction it should go down to 0V or close to it. the Voltage output should be liner with the amount the valve is open so suck in and out and play with it for a bit and verify its reporting properly. if its working hook the egr vacuum line back into the solenoid.

this is optional but its good to double check its working properly. you can go for a test drive and make sure the valve and everything is functioning by splicing a voltmeter into the egr sensor wire and ground wire. i mounted the voltmeter in my car and just ran some temporary wires out my door and under the hood. drive around and watch the voltage on the voltmeter. as you accelerate with different amounts of throttle the reading should change up and down based on the valves position.

i forgot to mention that the egr sensor should be wired into the harness at the same time you are playing with the voltmeter. you need the power source from the car to get any kind of reading from the sensor.

[Daninski]

Set your TPS again and make sure it's on the money. Check for vacuum leaks and check to make sure your coolant level is topped up squeeze the hose a few times rapidly with the cap on to clear any air pockets.

[Daninski]

Ok correct me if I'm wrong but this post is related to this new post you just opened. http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... 20#p592120
I believe these are one and the same so you should keep them together so others can see whats already been suggested and follow the progress. Cheers, Dan

[tbondo]

I will have to give those suggestions a try later this weekend and report my findings. You mention setting my TPS...did you notice that I am running the one from the 97 probe gt? That was another question if I should be running one from say a 93 probe to mesh with the 93 ecu.

[mikeinaus]

Ok correct me if I'm wrong but this post is related to this new post you just opened. http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... 20#p592120
I believe these are one and the same so you should keep them together so others can see whats already been suggested and follow the progress. Cheers, Dan

my idle seems to have fixed itself. from what i understood from his message his egr was stuck open and not a vacuum leak.

Everything seemed to run decent except when I drove the rpms rose rapidly causing me to drive at 30 mph in 5th gear.

didnt quite understand that part...

[MrMazda92]

Bad IAC or thermostat could cause this too, I know my '92 won't idle below ~2k when I plug the damn thing in.

If you don't know, the IAC plug is on the bottom of your throttle body, it's a white clip that pinches onto a black (I don't know what to call it ), and unplugging it while the car is not running should have no adverse side effects. If you try this, and your idle drops to normal, you've found your culprit. It's the simplest thing to test out of these suggestions so far, so I'd start with it...