Broken clutch line?

[Bolverk]

So, I haven't driven my car all winter. Today I took it out, got gas, oil changed, and safety/emissions to register it. Went home everything was fine, went to the store and on my way back home I stopped at a stop sign and as I pulled away and shifted from first to second my clutch pedal went all the way in with no resistance. I put it in neutral and pulled over. I was able to look at the pedals but couldn't see anything obviously wrong. It was dark and raining so I couldn't check under the car or for leaking. But if one of the cylinders was leaking wouldn't I notice a gradual change in resistance on the pedal instead of the sudden lack of pressure? Unless it just burst? I'll have to take a look at it after school tomorrow. Any ideas on what it could be?

[SpatialTerror]

haha well first check your brake fluid.
if it is low. pull your battery and tray.
and check all your lines for wetness.
and if all your lines seems good its either your clutch master cylinder
or slave cylnder.
and make sure you check the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder.
if its open theres not a problem.
and if your not low on fluid.
its either your slave or cluch master cylinders.

[Bolverk]

Okay, I looked around and didn't see any fluid around the slave cylinder or bleeder screw so I pulled the battery and found tons of fluid around the master. So I replaced it and I was bleeding the air out of the lines I noticed a leak in the tube between the clutch pipes. Going to replace that now.

[Bolverk]

How long does it take to build up pressure in the line? I can't get the clutch to disengage.

[PATDIESEL]

what exactly did you replace?
If you replaced the Brake Master Cylinder it takes a ton of time and that is why you should Bench Bleed it before you install it. If you repalced the Clutch Master, slave, or line it should build back up fairly quickly (20-30 pumps). You could have also broken something in the clutch or clutch fork. Have someone push the clutch pedal in and watch for the fork to move. Get back with us on the above.
Are you sure you are bleeding it properly? I would think you are, but have to ask the obvious.

[Bolverk]

I replaced the clutch master cylinder. I went to four different places to find the clutch flex hose and couldn't find it so I had to order it from Mazda, I should get it this weekend. I just duct taped the hose for a temporary fix since it was only a small leak.

To bleed the lines I put a hose on the bleeder screw and put the other end in a bottle with a bit of fluid. Then I pumped the clutch several times, used an umbrella to keep the pedal pushed in while I went and loosened the bleeder screw. I did this a few times until I stopped seeing bubbles from the bleeder hose. Still not enough resistance in the lines to disengage the clutch, so I'll just wait until I get the new hose and try again.

[Newfie_dan]

Get someone to pump it about 7 or 8 times hold it then release the bleed screw or if you have to do it solo get a vacuum brake bleeder kit to suck the fluid down to the bleeder, the best method hands down is the reverse brake bleeder kit like pheonix brake systems sells, it is a guaranteed method of a consistent and good bleed every time. I have used them and they are hands down the best tool I have ever used to bleed brakes/clutches.

[SpatialTerror]

corksport sells the line your looking for for i think like 20 bucks

[Bolverk]

Replaced the clutch hose, used a little brake bleeder kit, stiffened up pretty quick and works fine. Seems tighter now for some reason.