Engine Seized now NO SPARK?!

[Gods Father]

ok well a few months back i finished my first KLZE swap and im embarassed to say the engine seized because the oil drain plug was apparently not tightened enough...please dont make fun of me ive heard it enough from plenty of people...anyways when it seized i tried some things to see if i could possibly get it back because i didnt know how bad the problem was...so in my things i was doing i checked for spark and there was none...but that wasnt the main problem obviously the engine was seized so before i fixed the no spark problem i swapped in another engine...now my new engine is all ready to go but still no spark...i have the hei mod and the external coil all set up which was working fine before the engine seized...

so the question is...what could cause me to get no spark from my engine seizing?...can the external coils crap out? or the hei's? or my disty? i dont know how any of those would correlate with my engine seizing...maybe my ecu? (i hope not cause i bought the jdm one for like 200...plus i just went out and swapped the jdm one with another ecu i had and still nothing so probably not the ecu) anyways any feedback would be great thanks...

[wytbishop]

The year of the engine and the car may be pertinent. What do you know about the engine?

If you're using the same disty and you're sure that the HEI set up is exactly the same as it was when the other engine was running, I would start with the troubleshooting guide in the manual...http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/showimg.php ... /G-022.gif" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

In step 4 where is says to go to whatever page to test the ignition coil, follow the manufacturers directions for checking the condition of whatever coil you're using. When checking the wires, if you're using stock follow these specs, if not again follow the manufacturer's specs. In step 6 where it says to test for B+ve power at pin A of the 3 pin connector, that's just the wire that goes to the +ve side of the ignition coil. You should have 12V at the harness with the ignition on. If you don't identify the ECU pin (pin G in the 95 manual) that supplies battery power to that wire and check for 12V there.

I found this in 10 seconds on testing the HEI module.

1. Remove the module. (watch out for the dielectric grease on the underside, It's relatively harmless, but goopy:)
2. Connect a test lamp between the B and C module terminals and jumper +12 volts to the B terminal and then ground the module at the (Grd) terminal. If the lamp lights then the module is bad.
3. If the module passes step one, then jumper between the B and G terminals. If the lamp lights, the module is probably OK.

If you do all that and you don't find the problem there must be an error in the way it's connected.