oil pump issue

96mx-3 · Post by **96mx-3** » June 10th, 2009, 6:27 pm

alright well i have a problem here and hopeing i dont have to do what i think i have to do...

i swapd over the oil pump from my other motor... and when threading in the bolts..they just kept going.. would snug a bit ..then loosen again..then snug and then loosen...so i back one out and there is aluminum on it from the block threads.. so.. i figured im going to have to put in a fatter bolt ? ...and make it re thread its self.. now is there any one who has had this happen who knows that i can do.. or any one who has ideas.. i hope i dont have to pull out the f---in motor and tap it ..

this is driving me nuts cause its all for a stupid gauge..

thanks

mazdags94 · Post by **mazdags94** » June 10th, 2009, 8:19 pm

I've had this happen a few times and I would personally suggest re-tapping. Even if you ise a larger bolt, it wont have any thread to grip to in order to torque itself in the hole. You would probably end up stripping it even further inside if you did the bigger bolt as well, just making it more difficult and messy.

Actually, what you could try is some JB weld in the bolt, then thread it in and let it cure. Doing this wouldn't torque down the bolt a lot though so it may not work. I would just take the time to tap the hole if you plan on keeping th car for a while.

How many miles on the engine and what kind (V6, DE, K8, ZE)? Maybe do a complete gasket job while it's out???

Some things to consider.... Good luck man as I know how frustrating a cross-threaded bolt can be.

96mx-3 · Post by **96mx-3** » June 10th, 2009, 11:23 pm

its a kl-de i put maybe 15000 on it so far..so al gaskets are fresh... can i get a tap in with out pulling the motor?

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » June 11th, 2009, 1:03 am

If you pull the passenger wheel and the splash sheild around it, you should easily be able to get a tap in there. I've seen plenty of drill taps, as in they are drill bits.... Easy peasy to use.

No biggie.

wytbishop · Post by **wytbishop** » June 11th, 2009, 1:20 am

It's aluminum and I think that's an M10x1.25 bolt. You should be able to tap the hole for a 7/16" NF bolt without drilling. 8mm goes up to a 3/8"NF bolt. Use cutting fluid and try to make it as straight as you can. Aluminum is soft...you can do it.

96mx-3 · Post by **96mx-3** » June 11th, 2009, 6:24 pm

alright well i went and bought a tap kit... went to profasco.. talked to a lady there and she said i would have to go 2 sizes up for it to work and i didnt think i had enough material...so she recomended this paste...that is goof upto 300* f ...and it is good up to 120ft lbs of torque..i only need 19 so i tried it out..its good for aluminum and fine with engine fluids so will see how it works ... and now i have a torque set and nothing to play with it

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » June 12th, 2009, 1:01 am

Make sure you read up on how to properly tap something.... Its not just like a drill bit.

Google will be your friend there.

kiwimx3 · Post by **kiwimx3** » June 12th, 2009, 2:07 am

I love how most places these days try shoving goo under your nose and make claims.

Personally a "heli coil" kit is your better option, We use these in the aircraft industry
all the time.

They can be tricky for those not in the engineering game, however most engine rebuilding
shops should have experince in using them.

96mx-3 · Post by **96mx-3** » June 12th, 2009, 12:46 pm

well i have now made my problem worse..not only did that stuff not work AT ALL... but now i have a snapped bolt in one of the wholes...so now do i have to pull the motor? i have no idea how i should go about fixing this now ..

wytbishop · Post by **wytbishop** » June 12th, 2009, 1:23 pm

Oh no...

OK, you will absolutely need a drill to get that broken bolt out.

So now you have 2 broken bolts on your oil pump. You’re at the point now where you have to be serious. There is no quick fix for this. If you halfass this repair you’ll pay for it with the life of your engine. Pull the engine and do it right.

When you drill, make sure you know the depth of that bolt and use a guide to prevent from drilling too deeply. Behind the oil pump are oil and coolant passages. If you drill through into one of those you will have a dual overhead cam boat anchor on your hands. Take your time and do it right or get some experienced help.

96mx-3 · Post by **96mx-3** » June 12th, 2009, 2:13 pm

there is just one broken in the hole..but thanks alot for your help i called a shop that builds engines they worked on mine b4 when i needed the pistons installed .. i sent them pictures and there going to see if its doable inplace cause i call pull the rad and bumper and there is alot more room...but thank you .. ill post after i hear from them and see what happens

MX-3.com

oil pump issue

oil pump issue

Re: oil pump issue

Re: oil pump issue

Re: oil pump issue

Re: oil pump issue

Re: oil pump issue

Re: oil pump issue

Re: oil pump issue

Re: oil pump issue

Re: oil pump issue

Re: oil pump issue