I have seen various posts with regards to problems that some fellows had starting their mx3 in cold weather. I just had it running yesterday and ever since winter came may be mid october (especially i am in thunder bay nothern ontario) my car had similar symptoms. For example when it's warming up it would kangroo for a bit reving. Then the themo meter indicates proper warm temperature but cold air still comes out then may be 5 min of driving everything is fine no Kangarooing and warm air comes out and proper engine temperature.
Last nite was pretty cold the car started fine yesterday afternoon, then this morning after a cold nite it will not start. I smell gas when pressing too much on the accelarator, the starter kicks in, i hear the engine crancking it's about to turn, it barely turns and it just gets stuck there. I see exhaust fumes come out from my muffler. But it still won't completely start. Battery is fine, i changed the spark plugs, wires, dist. cap, rotor just this august. I don't know if it could be my disty. Any suggestions would help... thax in advacne pals.
Cold Weather Start
Cold Weather Start
Suspension Technique coils, with Tokico Blues
2.5L
Ceramic Pads and SS Break Lines
Straight Pipe
2.5L
Ceramic Pads and SS Break Lines
Straight Pipe
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Raven95150
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mitmaks
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run thinner oil also like 5w-30 instead of 10w-30
Magnum s/s lines, strut bars, carbon fiber bezel, indiglow gauge, Sony Xplod, inverted c/f hood, SRD lower tie bar '93 GS SE '95 Cobra SVT #2722 '68 Charger R/T 440
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http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks
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94mx3precidia
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- Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario
I would personally start cleaning off the grounds. your battery may be fully charge but the starter or your battery many not be able to dicipate the charge quick enough. Start with the battery ground and follow it down to the starter and clean them off really well. Put some dielect(sp?) grease on them as well to stop them from corroding in the future.
While your in there you might as well fix other grounds as well. like your washer pump and others.
While your in there you might as well fix other grounds as well. like your washer pump and others.
1994 MX-3 GS KLZE, Probinator, Bully stage 1 (probe GT), B&M Short Shifter, 2 1/4" Custom headders back.
Cold weather start
Thax so much for the replies... seems most of u believe it's related to current level... to be honest i never really tried boosting the battery with jumper cables, on top of that i have few sources that drain major power, projectors, amp/sub system, and piaa fog lights that draw 115/90W dual bulbs.. so i'll try boosting and see what happens ... may be also add some 5w30 and some fresh gas so that it's not so cold and it vaporises easier.
Suspension Technique coils, with Tokico Blues
2.5L
Ceramic Pads and SS Break Lines
Straight Pipe
2.5L
Ceramic Pads and SS Break Lines
Straight Pipe
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mx3autozam
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2950
- Joined: September 24th, 2005, 9:09 pm
- Location: Kitchener
Still no GO
Well I just discovered that i had 20W50 oil in there by mistake, because there was a sale on oil so I grabbed 4 jugs without paying any attention to the kind of oil.... i was so stupid.
So now I changed the oil to a castrol 5W30 ....disconnected the sub system and the fog lights..... put some anti-freeze the nite before into my gas tank and I boosted using my room-mate's car ... it almost starts but still same thing... motor won't turn but this time i heard it back-fire ... i think that's the proper term for it... it sounded like a single gunshot.... there was few but not consistent and not multiple .... sounds that one or 2 spark plugs actually fired up and may be one or 2 pistons fired up but the car still won't start.... Now I did change distributor cap,rotor, plugs and wires at the end of Aug. but not the starter or the distributor or alternator.... I also did reset the ECU unplugged the Pos(+)ve terminal and held down the break for 30 secs. in case some readings of air fuel mixture was causing it... but nothing ........ can't think of anything else that could be causing it......
Btw... i usually do put my car away in the winter ... it's only that this winter came a bit late so i kept driving... i am afraid if i go ahead and roll it in ...the problem would cause another and things might get worst... I think parking your car causes more problems for the long run anyways... that's what i noticed personally... lose so much power....
Any ways if you guys can pitch in any ideas it would be great... i really don't have money to spare on flat bed towing to a mechanic... thax again
So now I changed the oil to a castrol 5W30 ....disconnected the sub system and the fog lights..... put some anti-freeze the nite before into my gas tank and I boosted using my room-mate's car ... it almost starts but still same thing... motor won't turn but this time i heard it back-fire ... i think that's the proper term for it... it sounded like a single gunshot.... there was few but not consistent and not multiple .... sounds that one or 2 spark plugs actually fired up and may be one or 2 pistons fired up but the car still won't start.... Now I did change distributor cap,rotor, plugs and wires at the end of Aug. but not the starter or the distributor or alternator.... I also did reset the ECU unplugged the Pos(+)ve terminal and held down the break for 30 secs. in case some readings of air fuel mixture was causing it... but nothing ........ can't think of anything else that could be causing it......
Btw... i usually do put my car away in the winter ... it's only that this winter came a bit late so i kept driving... i am afraid if i go ahead and roll it in ...the problem would cause another and things might get worst... I think parking your car causes more problems for the long run anyways... that's what i noticed personally... lose so much power....
Any ways if you guys can pitch in any ideas it would be great... i really don't have money to spare on flat bed towing to a mechanic... thax again
Suspension Technique coils, with Tokico Blues
2.5L
Ceramic Pads and SS Break Lines
Straight Pipe
2.5L
Ceramic Pads and SS Break Lines
Straight Pipe
Ok well you've been cranking it for a few days now, so change out the spark plugs, they are probably bad. Now, test for spark on each plug. If they have spark, then you can eleminate that as a problem.
You should also check your timing, and check out your disty cap and rotor.
Check your compression.
Check if you have a fuel.
Do you plug it in over night? Try and put a hair dryer into the valve cover to heat things up abit before you start it.
You should also check your timing, and check out your disty cap and rotor.
Check your compression.
Check if you have a fuel.
Do you plug it in over night? Try and put a hair dryer into the valve cover to heat things up abit before you start it.
She said VROOoooom
Ok well ... it finally started but after such a long try ... what i did this time is I sprayed throttle body cleaner into the IM... boosted and kept going at it trying and trying... it was a very harsh start like once it turned I had to keep reving it beyond 3 or else it sounded like it was about to stutter and shut off again ... a lot of white smelly fumes came out of the exhaust i think mainly because of the throttle body cleaner (Revive) coz the inside of the IM had a lot of carbon deposits so once it started a lot of white stinky smoke came out...
I actually don't have block heater installed... but i was wondering how would I check most of the things you(Vanished) were speaking off... if you could inform me .. for future reference or in case it would not start in the near future again... greatly appreciate it.... [/i]
I actually don't have block heater installed... but i was wondering how would I check most of the things you(Vanished) were speaking off... if you could inform me .. for future reference or in case it would not start in the near future again... greatly appreciate it.... [/i]
Suspension Technique coils, with Tokico Blues
2.5L
Ceramic Pads and SS Break Lines
Straight Pipe
2.5L
Ceramic Pads and SS Break Lines
Straight Pipe
Timing:
You have to buy a timing light. They are about 20 dollars or so for a cheap one. Simply put the clip on your number 1 cylinder and shine the light at the crank. You'll see some numbers, make sure they are within spec (check on the online shop manual..i think it's +or- 4?)
Compression: Unplug the fuel relay (under the dash, passenger side, behind the Ashtray area) Buy a compression tester (30 bucks or so) and take out one spark plug and plug in the tester. Crank the engine so it goes through 6 cycles, and right down the compression. Repeat for all other cylenders.
Spark: Take the spark plug out and crank the motor, without fuel. If it sparks your good. It should be a bright blue spark if it's good. Try with all other spark plugs, one at a time.
You have to buy a timing light. They are about 20 dollars or so for a cheap one. Simply put the clip on your number 1 cylinder and shine the light at the crank. You'll see some numbers, make sure they are within spec (check on the online shop manual..i think it's +or- 4?)
Compression: Unplug the fuel relay (under the dash, passenger side, behind the Ashtray area) Buy a compression tester (30 bucks or so) and take out one spark plug and plug in the tester. Crank the engine so it goes through 6 cycles, and right down the compression. Repeat for all other cylenders.
Spark: Take the spark plug out and crank the motor, without fuel. If it sparks your good. It should be a bright blue spark if it's good. Try with all other spark plugs, one at a time.