engine swap...started then died, now wont start

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justatwinturbo
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engine swap...started then died, now wont start

Post by justatwinturbo »

im new to this forum, i've been on mx6.com for years since i have one of those......i've tried searching but only had a few ideas that really didnt work. basically its like this, my friend wanted to swap in a 2.5 so we got a 2.5 from the junkyard that was pulled from a 94 626. we did the swap last saturday, after it was all bolted up and everything hooked back up i cranked it and it turned right over. it idled at about 1000 for a few seconds then died. since then i cant get it to turn back over. we just put in a KL02 VAF, and put in a KL01 ECU. we tried it on the stock ECU too, and the stock ECU is the one it started on the first time. we changed the plugs and wires, we bought a new distributor at first but when i hooked up the spark tester i wasnt getting spark. im getting spark from the 1.8's disty. will a 1.8 disty work on the 2.5?? when we crank it, it sounds like it wants to start, but it never turns over. i've tried turning the disty a bit, thinking maybe its just a little off time. correct me if im wrong, but the disty can only go on the cam gear 1 way. can the rotor be turned? i took the rotor off, maybe i put it back on wrong? im really getting frustrated since i was supposed to have the car done last saturday, which the engine was in and cranking that day but its been this long and i still cannot figure it out. should i put the 1.8 intake manifold back on?? please help me out as much as you can, thanks i advance
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PATDIESEL
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Post by PATDIESEL »

The DE engine, VAF, intake and ECU should all work in the MX-3. The K8 disty must be used b/c the KL disty wiring is different. The disty can only be installed one way to keep you from reversing the T that attaches to the cam, so you are good there. The rotor can be put on backward. To make sure you have the rotor on correctly- line up the timing marks on the cam gears and crank (TDC), then put the rotor on facing plug wire number one. If you have a MX-6 or Probe you could try the VAF and ECU on your car to make sure they are working. If they aren't the K8 parts should work, but not run very well.
I suggest doing a spark test, make sure the VAF is facing the right way, try the K8 VAF maybe, make sure you have fuel pressure at the return line, OHM the injectors to make sure they are ok (doesn't mean one or more are not clogged)- post results.
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ho bag
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Post by ho bag »

As patdiesel said, Use you 1.8l dizzy, kl02 vaf and kl01 ecu. That IS a proven known good combination and will work if the parts are good. Check for blown fuses or vacume leaks or missing wires and such. Sounds like something stupid that must have been missed.

Maybe even try another k8 dizzy from a running car to test that theory.
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1996 Mazda MX-3 Gs KL-ZE
1994 Mazda MX-3 Rs (BP-T?)
justatwinturbo
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Post by justatwinturbo »

well we actually bought a disty for a 94 probe and it plugged in but the wiring was very tight since the connections are in a slightly different location. also we didnt get any spark with that disty. with the k8 disty, i only get spark if the wires are hooked up right. i tried putting them on a different way just for kicks and i didnt get any spark. but when properly hooked up i get spark to all 6. i checked fuel pressure from the feed line but never thought to check the return line, thats a good idea i think i'll go do that in a minute. im not 100% if the kl01 ecu works, i'd try it on my mx6 but my mx6 is a 4 cyl. when we first got the engine to start it was on the stock ecu and vaf, i've tried using the kl02 and stock ecu but it wont work at all. im going to pressure test the intake for leaks today if all else fails. also what should resistance be on the injectors?
ho bag
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Post by ho bag »

kl02 vaf requires a matching kl ecu, it will not work correctly on the k8 ecu as i mentioned above.

Use the proper k8 dizzy wired properly with either je50 vaf and k8 ecu OR kl02 vaf and matching kl ecu.
2002 Mazda Protege5 (Turbo kit 75% complete)
1996 Mazda MX-3 Gs KL-ZE
1994 Mazda MX-3 Rs (BP-T?)
justatwinturbo
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Post by justatwinturbo »

im using a kl02 vaf with a kl01 ecu......i just checked the return fuel pressure and its a 70psi. it actually started for a second with my guage hooked up but quickly died due to no flow
justatwinturbo
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Post by justatwinturbo »

i got it, its running now. i come to find out, mx6 disty rotors do not work on the 1.8 disty. i went to make sure everything was in time, set it to TDC, pulled the disty cap only to find bits and pieces of the rotor all over the place. i put the old rotor back in and it runs great. i do have a check engine light though, ive read that its common when doing the 2.5 swap? im not sure how to manually check codes on these cars, i tried cycling the ignition but nothing happens. thanks again for all your help
justatwinturbo
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Post by justatwinturbo »

ok, lemme start off by saying..WOW does this thing pull hard with a 2.5. what does a klde mx3 pull in the 1/4? based on the feeling in my a-- alone i'd say its a low 15 second car as it sits.

but ok, new problem, the radiator fans are not working. almost overheated the damn thing. any thoughts?
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Nd4SpdSe
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Post by Nd4SpdSe »

I know a guy who had one that did 14.6
1992 Mazda Mx-3 GSR - 2.5L KLZE : Award Winning Show Car & Race Car ['02-'09] (Retired)
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
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bdr2k5
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Post by bdr2k5 »

justatwinturbo wrote:ok, lemme start off by saying..WOW does this thing pull hard with a 2.5. what does a klde mx3 pull in the 1/4? based on the feeling in my a-- alone i'd say its a low 15 second car as it sits.

but ok, new problem, the radiator fans are not working. almost overheated the damn thing. any thoughts?
if im not mistaken, klde have radiator fan switch in a different location, i dont remember where, but its not on the intake like the k8. look into that
justatwinturbo
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Post by justatwinturbo »

ok, we pretty much said to hell with it, and wired up the fans to a switch inside the cab. we did that, and changed the thermostat and the guage still shot way up to hot. only thing was, the hoses didnt feel that hot, and the overflow wasnt overflowing so i think the guage is lying to me. so we ended up driving it about 20 miles with the needle pegged over H and it made it fine. i would think that any engine with the needle pegged over H for that long would have overheated but it didnt. has anyone else had this problem where the guage isnt reading correctly?
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