Clutch for BPT

nolig2278 · Post by **nolig2278** » October 16th, 2006, 10:10 pm

I have a BPT in my 94 with a tranny from an LX protege.
What is recommended clutch pressure plate and what else would I need. Figure 250 horsepower at the least.

thanks

jaydog5678 · Post by **jaydog5678** » October 17th, 2006, 12:13 pm

A good combo would be to use an ACT extreme MX-6 pressure plate with a Protege LX street disc. That will hold the torque all day long. This is the same setup I have now and I'm putting well over 260 ft lb. + to the flywheel.

JWMotorsports · Post by **JWMotorsports** » October 17th, 2006, 5:28 pm

http://www.clutchnet.com

I smoked the ACT 6-puck

WingleBeast · Post by **WingleBeast** » October 17th, 2006, 6:49 pm

how can you smoke a copper puck?

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » October 17th, 2006, 6:50 pm

how can you smoke a copper puck?

You put a LOT of power to it.

Tunes67

nolig2278 · Post by **nolig2278** » October 17th, 2006, 10:35 pm

Copper puck?

i wouldnt mind something that could handle 300 hp but jaydog did u install your setup urself? what did pay?

what is the dif between solid and spring hubs?

thanks

WingleBeast · Post by **WingleBeast** » October 17th, 2006, 11:39 pm

spring will be smoother since the springs allow the disc to twist a bit and not just instantly grab, if its unsprung you have no force to your wheels, changeing to all force to your wheels in a split second, useually is a pretty rough engage. if your going to drive it around casually and dont like burning a 100 dollar clutch disk, go with sprung. i have a sprung ACT and it has never slipped even at high revs. of course im still only with a B6 DOHC

PS i could imagine you slipping a copper puck but i thought the actual burning part was due to the friction on the celluose material on OEM clutches

jaydog5678 · Post by **jaydog5678** » October 18th, 2006, 3:37 pm

nolig2278 wrote:Copper puck?

i wouldnt mind something that could handle 300 hp but jaydog did u install your setup urself? what did pay?

what is the dif between solid and spring hubs?

thanks

You don't need anything more than what I had mentioned if you are keeping the torque level around 250 ft. lbs. I did install it myself, however I don't remember what I ended up paying for it ($320 just a guess). I get deals on just about everything I buy..... The advantages of being an auto technician.

nolig2278 · Post by **nolig2278** » October 18th, 2006, 7:35 pm

jaydog, both parts are made by ACT?

how many psi create 250 torque to the flywheel in the bpt, roughly

i run 12 psi daily and would like for a 15 psi once i know everything is ready for it.

on your bpt faq you mention adjusting the clutch out. what is the purpose of this?
my first clutch after my bpt swap was an ACt that I installed and it was ruinedin 6 months, but I think mostly cause the fork broke and I think the shop lied a bit to me.

thanks

jaydog5678 · Post by **jaydog5678** » October 18th, 2006, 11:06 pm

nolig2278 wrote:jaydog, both parts are made by ACT?

how many psi create 250 torque to the flywheel in the bpt, roughly

i run 12 psi daily and would like for a 15 psi once i know everything is ready for it.

on your bpt faq you mention adjusting the clutch out. what is the purpose of this?
my first clutch after my bpt swap was an ACt that I installed and it was ruinedin 6 months, but I think mostly cause the fork broke and I think the shop lied a bit to me.

thanks

Yes, they are both made by ACT.

Alot of factors can be thrown in there to create that kind of torque on a BP-T. I won't go into all the details, but with a VJ-20 turbo on a basicly stock engine, you are limited up to 15 psi. Don't try to run anything more. You would just be dumping more and more HOT air through the intake mani.

The ACT clutch kit has to be adjusted out because of the modified pressure plate they sell. If you don't, you will not be able to shift gears while the car is running. On a side note, Mazda recommends you should check it every xxx amount of miles. I don't believe the adjustment has anything to do with the hydraulics of the system.

It's sometimes hard to find the right people to work on your car. I know how that feels when your let down like that.

nolig2278 · Post by **nolig2278** » October 19th, 2006, 7:36 pm

i will mostly likely install it myself as i have so little trust. Shops never do it perfect or leave something out or come up with bs and ALWAYS take days longer than they should.

So far the clutch seems to be holding again. I hit 12 psi today and it grabbed just fine.

So how do I know exactly how to adjust the clutch pedal. Just follow the manual or is there some tip to feel for?

jaydog5678 · Post by **jaydog5678** » October 20th, 2006, 2:31 pm

nolig2278 wrote: So how do I know exactly how to adjust the clutch pedal. Just follow the manual or is there some tip to feel for?

Adjust the pedal the best you can to factory specs (Protege specs on my link), then test the clutch engagement with the car running. You may have to adjust it slightly more further than what the factory calls for. I can't remember how much more, it's been so long. Basically, adjust it so that you can shift gears while the cars running.

nolig2278 · Post by **nolig2278** » October 20th, 2006, 6:17 pm

Hope I am not sounding dumb but by lift it further u mean make the pin that goes into the clutch master cylynder longer/further pedal height so when i push the pedal it start to push the pin in the master cylinder sooner?

thanks

jaydog5678 · Post by **jaydog5678** » October 21st, 2006, 2:32 pm

Yeah, pretty much...

Click on my link again to see the picture of the pedal and floor board. I feel that pedal free play is the most crucial part of the adjustment, because that will determine when the hydraulics start to press fluid through the lines. Pedal height should be checked out as well.