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Anybody looking into these? I have seen them on Hondas and Acuras. I am sure we could definitely benefiet from having a set. Anyone try and bolt a set on? I know it will limit suspension travel but probably eliminate wheelhop altogether.

I just built a set and tried them out last night. Had my best time yet early in the afternoon, at 100Degrees. I might have finally broke into 15's if my axle hadn't snapped . They reduced my wheel hop but didn't eliminate it. Next week ill have mazda speed eng. mounts and well see if hop is gone then. But it definately cut my hop in half. I used 5/8 heim joints, worked out pretty sweet. Car drove well but i plan on running them only at the track. I plan on posting pictures as soon as i figure out how.[/img]

Philthy wrote:I just built a set and tried them out last night. Had my best time yet early in the afternoon, at 100Degrees. I might have finally broke into 15's if my axle hadn't snapped . They reduced my wheel hop but didn't eliminate it. Next week ill have mazda speed eng. mounts and well see if hop is gone then. But it definately cut my hop in half. I used 5/8 heim joints, worked out pretty sweet. Car drove well but i plan on running them only at the track. I plan on posting pictures as soon as i figure out how.[/img]

email me pics at jaridp@gmail.com

My buddy gave me some spare torque bars he made for his tbird. And i think they worked great. The rods were 22" long with 5/8" heim joints. I made brackets for the a arms and r.f. at the sub frame. I used the crossmember that holds the engine mounts for the l.f. notched the lip on the a arms for the heim joints and relieved the oil pan a bit to clear the rod. Havn't ran it long to say the results but so far drives well and has reduced wheel hop.
You can get these parts at coleman-racing.com
here is the link to my page showing what I did.
Input + or - is welcome, thanks
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2375603

Ok im tarded, what didn't i do to post the pictures right?

beats me, looks like it should work, but if you copy and paste the links it works.

Bochek

Well, posting the link worked, still i would like to know how to post pics in the forums

I was thinking about them too a few weeks ago, I would like some

timpronk wrote:

Those angles are pretty specific correct? Looking to make a set but my oil pan and downpipe is kinda in the way.

I'd recommend first swaping your motor mounts to atleast the Mazdaspeed motor mounts and/or filling them with urethane, or even welding at least the rear trans mount into a solid mount. Next swap out all the soft rubber OEM a-arm and trans crossmember bushings out for the SRD Performance Nylatron bushings (hard nylon basically). That eliminated all wheel hop in my car at around 400WHP. Thats basically what the traction bars your looking at do but the still have some give. Utilizing them with stiffer mounts and bushings would be the ultimate way to go. You also have to look at your suspension, your springs and struts have a LARGE effect as well. You should be running some really stiff springs in the front and rear of the car and w/ coilovers or airbags you can dip the front end of the car to pre load the suspension. Adjustable struts are optimal for the front and stiff struts for the rear. Also, do not dump your clutch and honestly...you'll have faster 60' times if you'd just let the clutch out smoothly holding around 2000 RPMs while feathering in the gas "slipping" the clutch until fully engaged and then nail the throttle the rest of the way. Doing this with my big GT30R turbo on a 1.6l B6T I can actually hand with a modified 5.0 Mustang past the 60' and then start pulling away at the top of first gear (my front tires are HUGE so my gears are tall, 245/50-R16). A Ninja can pull about two or three cars on me in first gear, second gear I real them back in, 3rd gear....I'd run plum the f*&k over that poor bike! Thats on street tires!

nice post JWM do you think that w/ a k8 that not dumping the clutch would give me a better launch ?
CJ Thor, w/ the car on the rack a turned the wheels lock to lock to check clearance. It wasn't very scientific. The closer to the wheels the mount is on the A-Arm the more leverage it will have. The further outboard yo go with the frame mounts will make the rods stronger. Clearing the tires while turned is the limiting factor.
I pulled out my srd bushings, loud, annoying, and embarrasing. these arms cut down my wheel hop by about half, but i havn't employed JWM's strategy. The nice thing about the bars is that you can drive around town then bolt them on for race day. I guess it just depends on what you want to do with your car.

I think it would help but you still need to let out of it if the tires start to hop. Most people rev their motors WAY to high when launching. The secret is to learn to slip the clutch to control your traction coming out of the hole. By just dumping the clutch like most people you instantly break traction and send the tires up in smoke. Slipping the clutch upon launch gently appling more power is the same principle of using a nitrous controller to gradually bring in a larg nitrous shot. You can pick up a LOT of time just by working on perfecting your 60' times. That is where most races are won or lost.

Makes sense, I'll try it this wednesday. Unfortunately im 2 busy at work to get out there early to get a lot of runs in. Thanks

I spoke with a company called http://www.full-race.com and sent him a few pics of the underside of our cars. There setup is a bit better than just two bars. Check out their site! I miiiight work a group buy if there is enough interest...