TB coolant bypass; Has any1 tried

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fowljesse
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TB coolant bypass; Has any1 tried

Post by fowljesse »

I was thinking about how I bypassed the Throttle Body coolant lines, but don't want to change how the car was set up, plus, I'm moving to where it's cold (Maybe not to most of you :wink: ), so I thought, why not hook up a secondary unit (away from the TB), with the sensor plugged in? What do you think?
Next question... Is there an easy to find unit that will work?
'93 GS - P&P DE w/ ZE exh. cams/ pistns, KLG4 IM, 65mm TB, MSnS, Phenos, K&N RAI, UDP, Grnd wires, rear batt, filld MM, torq strt, TWM short shftr, Exedy, Lng tube hdrs 2.5" Side exhaust, H&R sprngs, Poly bushngs, strutbars, Alum. crss mmber&tiebar, 22mm swybar, solid links, Direzzas, leather int, Alpine 9805 stereo & alrm, keyless entry, 10 Boston Accoustics spkrs, Prjectrs, Blaster2, CF hood, FG hatch, Lexan
Rick Johnson
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Post by Rick Johnson »

Don't do the coolant bypass mod, especially if your moving someplace colder.
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RacerX
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Post by RacerX »

from what ive read, the throttle body coolant bypass will confuse your ECU and make your car run poorly despite warm or cool weather conditions due to the fact the TB has a sensor in it which controls idle, timing, fuel/air and some other functions i believe.

bad bad idea to mess with it.
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babyblueMX3
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Post by babyblueMX3 »

I did it, undid it, makes a funky idle
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XxantwawnxX
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Post by XxantwawnxX »

I did it with my balc MX3...in warm weather it ran fine and my TB was alwasy cool to the touch. But as soon As ANY cool weather camr around it got crappy idle...and the colder the weather the longer the crappy idle lasted. Soo its nt really worth it unless you live in a desert. And then its prolly still not worht it : P
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fowljesse
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Post by fowljesse »

I did it a long time ago, because I drive long distances across the desert, and it ran great. But now I'm going north. I was going to mount a second TB maybe where the battery was, and hook the sensor up to it. That way it works & I don't have to run hot water into my IM after the PITA of putting in the pheno spacers.
'93 GS - P&P DE w/ ZE exh. cams/ pistns, KLG4 IM, 65mm TB, MSnS, Phenos, K&N RAI, UDP, Grnd wires, rear batt, filld MM, torq strt, TWM short shftr, Exedy, Lng tube hdrs 2.5" Side exhaust, H&R sprngs, Poly bushngs, strutbars, Alum. crss mmber&tiebar, 22mm swybar, solid links, Direzzas, leather int, Alpine 9805 stereo & alrm, keyless entry, 10 Boston Accoustics spkrs, Prjectrs, Blaster2, CF hood, FG hatch, Lexan
hgallegos915
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Post by hgallegos915 »

i have a bad aic.. which the collant sensor is there foir the tb.. i get horrible gas milleage i cant wait to fix it.
-hec

MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
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Post by fieromx3 »

i did it had absolutely no side effects even when it was -20 outside no funky idle no nothing.. but it didnt gain no power or anything to me wasnt worth the few bucks unless u take ur TB off often like i did then it came convienient :)
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jschrauwen
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Post by jschrauwen »

fowljesse wrote:I did it a long time ago, because I drive long distances across the desert, and it ran great. But now I'm going north. I was going to mount a second TB maybe where the battery was, and hook the sensor up to it. That way it works & I don't have to run hot water into my IM after the PITA of putting in the pheno spacers.
Just a little confused. Your going to have 2 TB in engine bay - one with coolant lines bypassed and the other set aside with the ISC plugged in?????
First it should encounter no side effects from running with the phenolic spacers w? coolant lines attached.
Second, ECU likes to haver that ISC valve info as part of the fuel richness calculations when setting idle and when driving. It's part of the ground zero set-up.
Third, If you want to know the actual difference, just uplug the 2 wire ISC Valve connector before your morning start. Your engine may or may not even achieve a reasonable idle, especially if it's the least bit cold outside. If it does attain an idle, than your basic idle set-up is incorrect to begin with so don't assume that everything is still OK.
Fourth, When it is started with the lines bypassed, engine will not go the prescribed high idle on cold starts as it's supposed to. This is an ECU generated process to richin the mixture which is easier on combustion when it comes to cold metal on metal part friction. Engine efficiency is based on running at an optimum temperature.
Fifth, the coolant lines will do exactly that - COOL the TB during excessive temps - and that's a good thing..
Sixth, why would one want to mess with something that works quite well, funtions to improve operation and performance since there's no performance or advantage to be gained by doing that mod. Mine works quite well with the phenolic spacer.

If it ain't broke - don't fix it!!
'92 GS-ZE - sold, '95 GS - sold, '02 Protege LX - Daughter, '00 Audi A4 2.8 QTip, Ducati TT2
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Post by bluemx3 »

hgallegos915,
How do you know you have a bad AIC?. I also get very poor gas mileage and my idle when cold is very hi, but it does come down when it warms up. I ran a check for codes and come up with nothing, but I'm trying to figure out why my car gets poor gas mileage, maybe it tis the AIC. How do I check it? Other then the hi idle when cold, the car runs great.
Owner of 7 different cars, 5 being convertibles. 1990 Miata is one of my summer fun cars. I enjoy that car so much, I thought owning a MX3 would be fun also. Drive with your top open or top down. See my car web site at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/816145
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Post by hgallegos915 »

Well i know because mine is melted... i connected it and it works but noit ok, i also had the aic code from the ecu. Idle goes up and downb, sometimes idle is to low and stals, gas milleage is around 22 mpg sometimes 25 mpg in warm days.
-hec

MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
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fowljesse
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Post by fowljesse »

Just a little confused. Your going to have 2 TB in engine bay - one with coolant lines bypassed and the other set aside with the ISC plugged in?????
That's what I was thinking, because I don't have the TB pheno spacer, but now, I think I'll just make that spacer.
'93 GS - P&P DE w/ ZE exh. cams/ pistns, KLG4 IM, 65mm TB, MSnS, Phenos, K&N RAI, UDP, Grnd wires, rear batt, filld MM, torq strt, TWM short shftr, Exedy, Lng tube hdrs 2.5" Side exhaust, H&R sprngs, Poly bushngs, strutbars, Alum. crss mmber&tiebar, 22mm swybar, solid links, Direzzas, leather int, Alpine 9805 stereo & alrm, keyless entry, 10 Boston Accoustics spkrs, Prjectrs, Blaster2, CF hood, FG hatch, Lexan
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jschrauwen
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Post by jschrauwen »

bluemx3 wrote:hgallegos915,
How do you know you have a bad AIC?. I also get very poor gas mileage and my idle when cold is very hi, but it does come down when it warms up. I ran a check for codes and come up with nothing, but I'm trying to figure out why my car gets poor gas mileage, maybe it tis the AIC. How do I check it? Other then the hi idle when cold, the car runs great.
I'd say that there may be a possibility that a missfunctioning ISC coukld contribute to a richer running condition. There is a very easy way to test the operational integrity of the ISC from the online manual. Since I don't have my manual handy with me at work, vague recollection tells me around page 102/103 in the V6 section. Pulling the 2 wire connector from the ISC and checking the resistance values fall within prescibed tolerances based on subjected outside temps that again is found within the online manual. Just gussing here but something in the range between 10.6ohms and 12.3 ohms I believe. Hope this helps.
'92 GS-ZE - sold, '95 GS - sold, '02 Protege LX - Daughter, '00 Audi A4 2.8 QTip, Ducati TT2
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slimmyslim1420
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Post by slimmyslim1420 »

jschrauwen wrote:
fowljesse wrote:I did it a long time ago, because I drive long distances across the desert, and it ran great. But now I'm going north. I was going to mount a second TB maybe where the battery was, and hook the sensor up to it. That way it works & I don't have to run hot water into my IM after the PITA of putting in the pheno spacers.
Just a little confused. Your going to have 2 TB in engine bay - one with coolant lines bypassed and the other set aside with the ISC plugged in?????
First it should encounter no side effects from running with the phenolic spacers w? coolant lines attached.
Second, ECU likes to haver that ISC valve info as part of the fuel richness calculations when setting idle and when driving. It's part of the ground zero set-up.
Third, If you want to know the actual difference, just uplug the 2 wire ISC Valve connector before your morning start. Your engine may or may not even achieve a reasonable idle, especially if it's the least bit cold outside. If it does attain an idle, than your basic idle set-up is incorrect to begin with so don't assume that everything is still OK.
Fourth, When it is started with the lines bypassed, engine will not go the prescribed high idle on cold starts as it's supposed to. This is an ECU generated process to richin the mixture which is easier on combustion when it comes to cold metal on metal part friction. Engine efficiency is based on running at an optimum temperature.
Fifth, the coolant lines will do exactly that - COOL the TB during excessive temps - and that's a good thing..
Sixth, why would one want to mess with something that works quite well, funtions to improve operation and performance since there's no performance or advantage to be gained by doing that mod. Mine works quite well with the phenolic spacer.

If it ain't broke - don't fix it!!

Well said John. I love that quote. when I was 16 with my first car my Dad told me that all the time.
"If it ain't broke don't fix it"
1992 GS ZE swap 94 dash swap drilled and slotted rotors full ceramic pads CS SS clutch and brake lines KL-36 ecu zx-2 tokico struts eibach springs short shifter Tenzo exhaust Hi flow cat 2.5 in piping
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fowljesse
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Post by fowljesse »

So your engine, dash, and tranny were all broken, or did you replace them for better performance? It's funny how people say "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" after spending hundreds, or thousands, on unnecessary upgrades. If everyone adhered to this idea, this site would most likely not exist. I definately appreciate the technical advice that comes along with the inevitable opinions. Everything made by humans can be improved.
'93 GS - P&P DE w/ ZE exh. cams/ pistns, KLG4 IM, 65mm TB, MSnS, Phenos, K&N RAI, UDP, Grnd wires, rear batt, filld MM, torq strt, TWM short shftr, Exedy, Lng tube hdrs 2.5" Side exhaust, H&R sprngs, Poly bushngs, strutbars, Alum. crss mmber&tiebar, 22mm swybar, solid links, Direzzas, leather int, Alpine 9805 stereo & alrm, keyless entry, 10 Boston Accoustics spkrs, Prjectrs, Blaster2, CF hood, FG hatch, Lexan
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