Tunes67 - 92 MX-3 GS

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » February 27th, 2006, 8:44 pm

Just preparing my log..

Made ya look LMAO There will be some here in the next week though

But here are some pics of the project as I get started.

Tunes67

nos92mx3 · Post by **nos92mx3** » February 27th, 2006, 9:51 pm

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » March 20th, 2006, 7:32 pm

Ok.. I got the MTX swap kit. And I am starting with the interior projects before ripping everything out from under the hood. During this project I will be replacing the timing belt & waterpump as well as converting my GS to a 5 spd. Pics will be taken at opportune "Clean" moments when I am not so greasy that I can actually use my camera

The next few weeks should be interesting to say the least

Tunes67

mymx.3 · Post by **mymx.3** » March 20th, 2006, 8:14 pm

And make sure Tunes that you are in the pics too!!

DEB

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » March 29th, 2006, 7:06 pm

ATX to MTX swap. Deconstruction nearly complete.
So far parts removed:

Seats
Center Console & Atx Shifter, TCM and shift cable.
Battery & battery tray removed (will not be reinstalled)
Factory Airbox assembly removed (will not be reinstalled)
Axles & Halfshaft (was far easier to remove these than what I was led to believe)
Engine & ATX have been removed
Wiring harness was pulled with the engine and will be replaced.

Parts still to be removed:

Stock ATX Brake Pedal Assembly.

Note worthy observations:

The #6 spark plug wire was not seated into the distributor cap.. this was likely the reason the engine kept throwing a code 17 even after the previous owners replaced the O2 sensors.. nice that I wont need to dink with them. I have a couple of pics of this (was damn funny LOL) Here ya go:

There was a minor amount of oil in the #1 spark plug hole... enough reason to replace the valve cover gaskets before it gets really bad.

The studs in the exaust manifold collector flanges were an extreme PITA to get out and will need to be replaced with a better system to hold the flanges together. I WILL NOT use the same system again.. idiots.

Parts bought so far:

MTX swap kit - including trans, clutch, axles/halfshaft, wiring harness and mounts, etc..
Timing belt kit
Axle seals
Pilot bearing
Shifter Bushings

Parts still to come:

Millenia Alternator
Valve cover gaskets
Intake Manifold Gaskets
Exaust Manifold Gaskets
Exaust Manifold Flange donut gaskets (idiots)
NGK Plug Wires
NGK Spark Plugs
Distributor Cap & Rotor
CAI Kit (likely will design & build my own)
Battery and relocation kit to mount battery in spare tire well.

Possible side project under consideration:

I am seriously considering removing everything from the fender wells and firewal in the engine bay and sand blasting it all down to bare metal and then primering it and painting it before reinstalling everything. Will depend on timing and how soon my back will allow me to start working again.

Tunes67

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » June 26th, 2006, 8:18 pm

Engine work began this past weekend. I removed the timing belt and pully's and the waterpump as well. Bought a bunch more parts.. water pump, intake & valve cover gaskets.. NGK plugs & Plug wires.

I removed the wiring harness from the engine as well. Need to buy a gear puller so I can get the crank pully off so I can install the new timing belt. I also discovered damage to the power steering tensioner bracket.. fortunately a buddy has a spare

I should have all the gaskets and main work done to the engine hopefully before the weekend. I have a 4 day weekend coming up and want to get the battery installed and take care of the interior work. With luck my next update will have pics and will be showing the engine & trans going back in.

Tunes67

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » September 24th, 2006, 9:44 pm

Ok.. a lot has been accomplished now.. so I will bring this back upto current.

Engine work:

Timing Belt, Waterpump, Valve cover & intake gaskets all replaced. Also replaced the seals in the oil cooler and the coolant hoses leading to it (they were dang soft.. a coolant leak waiting to happen). I have a millenia alternator on its way and that will be installed as well. I have bought and installed a set of Hotshot ceramic coated headers. Looks like the rear O2 bung is indeed in the wrong location.. the O2 sensor doesnt hit on the steering rack.. but the wires from the sensor do touch it. I think I will remove that header and see if I can grind down the bung a little ways so the sensor screws in a little further.. if I can get another 1/8 of an inch.. it should be fine. Otherwise that header will need to go into an exaust shop and have another bung added where it should be (oddly enough.. the O2 sensor bung threads are identical to Toyota 4Runner Oil drain plugs.. so plugging the bungs arent a problem.)

The clutch & tranny installed without a hitch, though I did have to buy a new throwout bearing and pilot bearing. I installed new shifter bushings.. and the more important shifting device

Anyway.. things are progressing well and now my GS is officially a 5 spd.

Parts left to buy:

NGK plug wires (aka High Tension Leads)
Disty cap & rotor
Power distribution blocks for + & - Battery terminals.
CAI Kit parts
Universal Catalytic Converter

Projects still to do:

Replace Drivers Door
Install drivers fender & hood
Install wiring harness
Install VGA cable & USB cable
Finish Battery Relocation
Install Axles & Wheels
Install gauge pod & gauges. (I would use my gauge panel from the RS, but I have need to keep both dins available for a furture project

)
Make custom frame rail(s) for my drivers seat so I can have some freaking leg room.
Reinstall seats and rest of interior pieces.
New Konig Heliums
And some kind of paint job. (This topic annoys me at the moment LOL)

That should hold this over for a bit. Another update when something exciting happens.

Tunes67

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » October 2nd, 2006, 6:30 pm

Well we got some more stuff done.. some will end up in a write up so I am not going to double post it here. We got more of the wiring harness handled.. and I finally got around to getting the positive battery cable run for my battery relocation project. I also found a pretty nifty place to mount my little dry cell battery.. we are fabricating a bracket for this location.. but the battery fits in here like the place was made for it.

Originally I was going to mount the battery back in the spare tire well.. but that cross brace is perfect to support the battery.. just need a decent strap mount and the battery will go no where. You can also see that I ran the battery cable up underneath where the battery will now sit. Works out very nicely and its opposit of where the driver sits so it will still help distribute the battery's weight a bit. Not that the battery I am using weighs that much (only 13 lbs or so) but this will allow for a nice clean install. We will install remote battery terminals in the engine bay in case I ever need a jump start.

I'll be running the audio cable, VGA cable and USB cable from the hatch to the dash on the 14th then the interior can start going back together.

Coming up saturday the 7th.. we will finish the exaust and replace the drivers door. Check in next week... same bat time.. same bat channel..

Tunes67

mr1in6billion · Post by **mr1in6billion** » October 6th, 2006, 3:31 am

wow... um... it took me forever to figure out what that was a picture of. And I've stripped 2 mx's. What is that thing already in the wall? How much are you stripping?

I thought about mounting a small battery where the rear window water resevoir (sp?) is. It's a fairly small space, but it's recessed and I wouldn't be taking up any room thats not already taken up.. Maybe you should look into it and get back to me on if it would really work

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » October 7th, 2006, 2:05 pm

See then I wouldnt have my rear window washer fluid

This place is open and available and my battery fits perfectly.. just need to finish fabbing the bracket that will hold it in place. The other thing you are referring to is the power seatbelt motor. As for how much I am stripping.. right now the interior is pretty much gutted. But.. it will all eventually go back in, with the exception of the joke spare tire anyway.. gonna use that well for my carPC location. I will put more details up about that project when I get there

I still havent decided on what to do about the seats. Need to run my PC cables under the carpet.. my fuel pump kill switch wiring (that will likely go right off the relay though)

Tunes67

mr1in6billion · Post by **mr1in6billion** » October 7th, 2006, 5:52 pm

If the interiors going back in will the battery be completely hidden? Won't that be inconvienent? Or are you going to make some cool custom side panel to display it

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » October 7th, 2006, 11:05 pm

The battery will indeed be completely hidden. I will need to remove the lower rear seats and pull that panel to access it. But thats not a big deal. I will have remote battery terminals in the engine bay to jump start the car if I do drain the battery.. worst case I can always compression start the car if I have any real problems. Its a bit of a hassle to do this.. but the space savings and weight reduction (over a normal battery) are definately worth it. Here are a few pics of where I routed the battery cable. I routed the cable though the door sill cavity. Not too easy to do.. but easier for the guys with auto seatbelts.. you can remove the lap belt and get easier access to the cavity to feed the cable through. Here you can see the entry & exit points of the cable from that cavity.. also where the cable goes through the firewall.

I got a lot more done today... I finished rewiring the front wiring harness. I found a lot of corrosion in the 2 original wires going to the alternator. So I split open the wiring harness... traced them to the fuse block.. removed them and replaced them with wiring that even matches the colors of the new alternator harness plug. I also added the 3rd wire for the alternator to the harness. I couldnt figure out where I wanted to attach it to the fuse block so I just ran it in and added it to the + of the cigarette lighter. It needs to be a switched +12v source.. so that one should fill the bill. Then I rewrapped and reran the harness. I added a second main power cable from the alternators positive output post and routed it directly to where it will connect to the power distribution block I bought one.. but its not going to work.. wont fit the bigger wires/cables... so I will have to get something else.

wagZE · Post by **wagZE** » October 9th, 2006, 1:52 am

Nice work I think putting the battery there is a great idea i just may copy it

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » October 9th, 2006, 5:00 pm

Here are some pics of the battery test fit.. keep in mind I am NOT using a standard sized battery. I am using a 1/2 sized sealed dry cell battery. 680 amps.. 420 CCA. It should be plenty for around here. I dont think I would trying it in the colder climates though.

This was just a test fit with a zip tie so we could measure how long we need to make the metal strap. But now you can see how well the battery fits in here.

Tunes67

MechaManZero · Post by **MechaManZero** » October 18th, 2006, 12:24 am

Man that is an awsome idea i might have to copy you on that one

.