Klze Swap problems

[skdrcr]

What's going on fellas.

I have a few questions concerning this swap.

It's going in my buddys 93 mx-3 se.

The motor is swapped in, but we can't get it to start.

I've searched around some of the threads but I'm not clear on a few things.

First of all, do you have to use the KLZE ECU? We're running the 1.8 ecu
right now. If so do any of you guys know where to find one for a decent price.

Second, do you have to have the VAF from the 2.5 626 motor
for the motor to work.

We're throwing 2 codes right now. Code 16 and Code 29.

Is there any way for me to figure out what these codes are?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

Chris

[skdrcr]

Also I have another question.

We had to use the old tranny because the ZE tranny won't mount up.

If I want to swap the ZE tranny in later, can I just use a different
tranny mount to bolt it up?

Where would I find this mount?

THX, Chris

[skdrcr]

I forgot, I have another question.

I thought I heard somewhere that I have to use the 1.8 crank/cam
sensors with the KLZE motor.

We're running the 1.8 distributor and 1.8 wiring harness.

[bmwm3guy]

Ok for the ECU, you can use the K8 ECU fine but you will need to use the K8 intake manifold as well. The only thing is that your motor will burn quite rich with this ECU/IM combo.

The VAF to use would be the one that came with your MX3 originally (Should say JE50 of it)

For the Check engine codes: http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=34787
16 and 29 are the EGR, thats normal because the KLZE doesnt have an EGR so the K8 ECU cant find it.

The Tranny should bolt up just fine. All G series tranny's are interchangable. Can you see what wont go on it? Currently I have had MX3 and MX6 tranny's on my car and I had no problems bolting them on. Since the trannies are the same, the mounts dont need touching either. The stock K8 mounts will bolt up to your ZE with any tranny.

I kept the ZE crank sensor on mine both times I swapped, and the K8 Disty and Wiring harness are the right ones to use.

Hope this helps.

[skdrcr]

Ok for the ECU, you can use the K8 ECU fine but you will need to use the K8 intake manifold as well. The only thing is that your motor will burn quite rich with this ECU/IM combo.

The VAF to use would be the one that came with your MX3 originally (Should say JE50 of it)

For the Check engine codes: http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=34787
16 and 29 are the EGR, thats normal because the KLZE doesnt have an EGR so the K8 ECU cant find it.

The Tranny should bolt up just fine. All G series tranny's are interchangable. Can you see what wont go on it? Currently I have had MX3 and MX6 tranny's on my car and I had no problems bolting them on. Since the trannies are the same, the mounts dont need touching either. The stock K8 mounts will bolt up to your ZE with any tranny.

I kept the ZE crank sensor on mine both times I swapped, and the K8 Disty and Wiring harness are the right ones to use.

Hope this helps.

When you say "K8" I assume you are reffering to the the code
for the mx-3 1.8 v6 motor.

We are currently using the 1.8 (K8) ecu and intake manifold.

We are also using the 1.8 exhaust manifold so we could hook up the
EGR valve to it so I don't see why we are still throwing tose codes.

Where the 3 tranny mount bolts go on the 1.8, all three are flat whereas
one of the klze bolts is elevated higher so it won't bolt up to the
original mount. I can show you a pic if you like.

[bmwm3guy]

When you say "K8" I assume you are reffering to the the code
for the mx-3 1.8 v6 motor.

We are currently using the 1.8 (K8) ecu and intake manifold.

We are also using the 1.8 exhaust manifold so we could hook up the
EGR valve to it so I don't see why we are still throwing tose codes.

Where the 3 tranny mount bolts go on the 1.8, all three are flat whereas
one of the klze bolts is elevated higher so it won't bolt up to the
original mount. I can show you a pic if you like.

Sorry yeah K8 = 1.8L V6 coming from an MX3

I dont know for the EGR

Yea a pic would be helpful for the tranny. Is it a manual?

[Talon_66]

Going price for a KLZE ECU seems to be about $250USD

[jschrauwen]

Going price for a KLZE ECU seems to be about $250USD

One available now;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... gory=33596

[skdrcr]

When you say "K8" I assume you are reffering to the the code
for the mx-3 1.8 v6 motor.

We are currently using the 1.8 (K8) ecu and intake manifold.

We are also using the 1.8 exhaust manifold so we could hook up the
EGR valve to it so I don't see why we are still throwing tose codes.

Where the 3 tranny mount bolts go on the 1.8, all three are flat whereas
one of the klze bolts is elevated higher so it won't bolt up to the
original mount. I can show you a pic if you like.

Sorry yeah K8 = 1.8L V6 coming from an MX3

I dont know for the EGR

Yea a pic would be helpful for the tranny. Is it a manual?

Yeah, sorry I didn't state it but it's actually an automatic tranny.
Maybe that's why the bolts are different.

Can anybody confirm wether or not I actually have to use a KLZE ecu?

I got rid of the code 16, but it's still giving me a code 29 even after I
reset the ecu.

The car will turn over and run for a second, but then it will die.

I don't know if it's starving for fuel or what.

jschrauwen, thanks for the link.

[bmwm3guy]

Still the trannies should theoretically bolt up fine.. but Ive never tried auto trannies myself. The reason I say that is if the Manual trannies are interchangable, then that says that the hookups on the motor side are the same, therfore if one tranny hooks up then all of them should.

The ECU should work fine. If you have the K8 Intake Manifold, the K8 ECU WILL run your motor fine. I know people that have done this months without any problems besides lost power.

Check all your vaccums and make sure you have no leaks, have you checked your timing?

[skdrcr]

Check all your vaccums and make sure you have no leaks, have you checked your timing?

Yes, we've double checked the vaccuum lines and played with the
distributor to no avail.

The car will turn over and start but will immediately die.

It's throwing a cel code 29. (EGR Soleniod valve connection i think).
It says to check the wiring from the Fuel Injector
relay to the soleniod valve and that looks good.

We tested the relay and it seems to be working fine.

Would that code keep the car from running?

I'm not sure on this one.

Is there any way to check the timing w/o the car running?

I guess I'll play with the distributor some more and see if I can get
it to run.

Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[bmwm3guy]

Pull off the timing belt covers and make sure the timing dots still line up with the marks on the block.

I know it isnt easy and not probable, but it is possible that the belt jumped a few notches, or you didnt put it on properly while changing it.

To do this turn the cam gears by hand until the 1st piston (back left) is at Top Dead Center (short is TDC and it means the piston is at the highest point or closest to the head) and then look at the cam gears, they should have some paint dots (that may be gone, but the indentations are still there) that line up to some marks on the block. If they're lined up = timing is OK.

Another more acurate but pain in the @ss way to get the motor to TDC would be to remove the crank pulley and line up the crank timingbelt cam with the mark on the block. That means it is at TDC and all the marks on the cam gears should line up if the timing is ok.

[skdrcr]

Pull off the timing belt covers and make sure the timing dots still line up with the marks on the block.

I know it isnt easy and not probable, but it is possible that the belt jumped a few notches, or you didnt put it on properly while changing it.

To do this turn the cam gears by hand until the 1st piston (back left) is at Top Dead Center (short is TDC and it means the piston is at the highest point or closest to the head) and then look at the cam gears, they should have some paint dots (that may be gone, but the indentations are still there) that line up to some marks on the block. If they're lined up = timing is OK.

Another more acurate but pain in the @ss way to get the motor to TDC would be to remove the crank pulley and line up the crank timingbelt cam with the mark on the block. That means it is at TDC and all the marks on the cam gears should line up if the timing is ok.

The timing is dead on.

Were still trying to get this bastard to start.

The only way it will start is if we spray starter fluid directly in the throttle
body, then it dies a few seconds after that.

This leads me to believe the injectors are not functioning properly.

It's still throwing a code 29 (EGR solenoid blah balh balh)

The code says to check the wiring fron the injector relay to the
soleniod. We've tested the relay several times and it works fine.

Another mechanic believes that it has to do with the 1.8 KL08 ECU
we're running. I know you guys are saying that it should still run
with that ecu but we can't get it to run.

The only other thing I can think to do is to just get an actual KLZE ecu
and a 626 2.5L Air flow meter.


Is that the air flow meter I need with the klze ecu and the 1.8 k8 intake
manifold?

We're going to eventually swap the milenna manifold in but we're short
on money right now.

What year Millena's can I get the manifold out of? (v6 2.5L?).

I really need some help from some of you guys who have been down this road and I apppreciate all the input from everybody.

The problem is no one in this town knows anything about this swap.

You guys are me best bet.

Chris

[Custommx3]

You do not need the k8 manifold, you can use any K series IM with the k8 ecu. The only difference is the VRIS points wont match. We've done quite a few swaps where we either used a KL IM or a Millenia/MS8 mani with the k8 ECU/VAF.

[Zoso124]

The KL31 and KL36 will both work fine, I know cause I've had both, and don't use the K8 Intake manifold if you have a ZE - Curved perferrably.