I've always had problems with my braking system, and it is starting to pi... eumm really make me angry.
My brakes have a bad tendency to seize, and I find that it seems they are always engaged a little bit, which I can only imagine what that is doing to my gas milage. What do you think it may be? Could it be a leaky master cylinder? Or what? I just need some things to check and maybe we can work through this together.
Would inspect both sides of the rotors for a nice smooth ungrooved surface and have em resurfaced if needed, installed along with new pads in that scenario. Re the "always engaged a little bit", inspect the disc pads for presence of brake return springs, little spring steel wires that act to push back the pads from the rotor when not under braking pressure. Had to replace those once as the old ones were still in place but had corroded and broken @their centerpoints. Ck. the online manual,
page P-32 for the front brakes and you'll see pic w/part#1, "M-Spring"
page P-37 for rear brakes and you'll see pic w/part#3, "V-Spring"
Last edited by neutral on March 27th, 2005, 10:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
the discs/ rotors are brand new brembo's, and I think I know what spring you are talking about, but they are not corroded at all. Ill take a pic tonight to confirm if that is what you're talking about.
Ever flush your brake lines? I had similar problem on a different car.. the brake lines had this nasty varnish in them from old or maybe the wrong type of brake fluid used.. was causing all kinds of seizing probs.. different calipers would act up at weird times.. I replaced all the calipers and this took care of it for almost a year.. then it started doing it again.. thats when I noticed how nasty the brake lines were.. I flushed them out with denatured alcohol then let them sit over night so any alcohol left in them would evaporate out.. (I also used the air compressor to blow dry them before hand but figured better safe than sorry) refilled the entire system with DOT 3 brake fluid and the car never had a problem again with that. Dunno if this is your problem.. but another thing to check I suppose.
Thanks Tunes, I will try that. Did you just fill the reservoir? or Take off the rubber brake lines and clean them only?
By the way I have already changed all four calipers in the last year, and recently greased the sliders up nicely to avoid that jschrauwen mentionned, but thanks for the idea!
Ok just to clarify, how does the Master Cylinder work? When I step on the brake, it pumps brake fluid into my brakes which makes the cylinders at the brakes press the pads onto the discs? So if the master cylinder was leaking (or not closing off the pumping action) wouldn't that cause my problem?
Sorry i don't know for certain how it works so I am speculating.. any input is greatly appreciated.
I disconnected the brake lines and removed them from the car altogether (even had to replace one cause I accidentally put a screwdriver through it ) This was a on 89 Toyota Corolla SR-5. My GF's car at the time. As for the Master Cylinder.. I cant really answer that question with certainty
But best of luck in anycase
One other thing.. I am not just talking about the rubber brake lines that attach to the calipers.. I am also talking about the metal brake lines as well.. I cleaned ALL of the brake lines & fittings in the car.. took me 3 days to get the project done. Also.. if you do use the denatured alcohol to clean with, dont let the alcohol stay in the rubber lines for any length of time, get them dry immediately after flushing. The metal lines dont matter (those are the ones I let dry over night) But alcohol can eat rubber if left in contact very long. Just another FYI
Tunes67 wrote:Ever flush your brake lines? I had similar problem on a different car.. the brake lines had this nasty varnish in them from old or maybe the wrong type of brake fluid used.. was causing all kinds of seizing probs.. different calipers would act up at weird times.. I replaced all the calipers and this took care of it for almost a year.. then it started doing it again.. thats when I noticed how nasty the brake lines were.. I flushed them out with denatured alcohol then let them sit over night so any alcohol left in them would evaporate out.. (I also used the air compressor to blow dry them before hand but figured better safe than sorry) refilled the entire system with DOT 3 brake fluid and the car never had a problem again with that. Dunno if this is your problem.. but another thing to check I suppose.
Tunes67
Good stuff Tunes.
I've touched on this issue before. If were thinkin' brake line as the culpret, well the flush method is IMO, just a quick fix. Were talkin' up to 13 year old vehicles here with rubber brake lines the same age (if original) that in the majority of cases have seen anywhere from 150k to over 300k km's on them. Assumably, a portion thereof would be under some severe conditions (don't have to explain that one..he he he). That colour that Tunes has eluded to is the systematic process that happens when petroleum based products meet (rubber brake line/caliper internals/MS internals and brake fluid. That yellowy/brownish colour is the resultant change to the brake fluid as it interacts with the rubber parts as previously mentioned and is intensified with age and heat transferance. My car at 270,000km is long overdue for hydraulic line replacement. My biggest indicator was last winter when the clutch line finally fatigued and sprung a leak. These things wear out, from the inside with brake fluid and from the outside from the weather and external elements. The logical choice would be to replace the lines, presumably with oem replacements. For the same price or possibly even cheaper, is the the teflon braided lines, AKA - SS lines. These lines have a teflon line inside that will not interact with brake fluid. These lines will not expand under heat, pressure or age like rubber lines. And when rubber lines expand under braking, that's lost pressure not reaching the calipers or clutch slave cylinder. The big plus is that since the braided lines are on, the need for occasional bleeding or potential line pressure loss is virtually non-existant. I've always had braided lines on my motorcycles (clutch and brake) and the fluid in my current bike is as clear and viable as when I put it in 15 years ago. Another big plus will be the brake/clutch pedal feel. A lot less effort will be required for the same previous results because there is no rubber line expansion. Don't know why this isn't oem equipment by now. And for those who like to BLING, braided lines come in various protective coloured coatings over the SS. Something tells me I should have this put in an archive...Tunes...what do you think??
Hope this helps.
I agree that its better to replace the brake lines.. at least rubber ones. And having a FAQ & a "How to" when it comes to the brake system, repair/replace, would only be a good thing to have available. I have yet to delve into my cars brakes simply cause when I bought the car I inspected the pads/rotors/drums and found them to be in excellent condition.. in fact.. the wear that was present was the most even brake wear I had ever seen. One of the reasons I bought the car As for my GF's Corolla.. well.. that car had been badly abused and while I am not discounting the varnish build up from fluid interaction from heat & different material composits.. I have a sneaking suspicion on that car that someone put ATX fluid in the master cylinder.. I got some weird looking purple fluid out of those brake lines when I cleaned them. I worked on that car for almost the entire time I dated that lady and in that 9 month period of time.. I had to overhaul almost every system on the car.. thank god we broke up before the trans went LOL
Alright! Thanks a lot guys, I just ordered some SS lines from CorkSport hopefully this and a brake line overhaul will help. I will keep you all posted, and hopefully grab some pics for a possible how-to. Thanks for all the quick info guys!
bmwm3guy wrote:Alright! Thanks a lot guys, I just ordered some SS lines from CorkSport hopefully this and a brake line overhaul will help. I will keep you all posted, and hopefully grab some pics for a possible how-to. Thanks for all the quick info guys!
Have a quick peek at "Macen's" thread WRT bleeding SS lines. Good luck beemer.
while your doing the brake lines, pull the bolts off that hold on the caliper and go to canadian tire and get what they call "synthetic brake lube", then lube the bolt shafts up and put the caliper back on, that should fix the sticking/squeaking if that is the problem.
You know the world is going crazy when the best rapper is a White guy, the best golfer is a black guy, The Swiss hold the America's Cup, France is accusing the US of arrogance, and Germany doesn't want to go to war
Tune's mate this is why i DON'T have a G/f to much bloody hassle
Its the car's broken or something else...
Or you spending to much time on the race cars or out on the bikes
bla bla bla bla bla.............shezzzz.................
Kiwi - Native Bird Of New Zealand, semi-nocturnal, secretive bird
Flightless, though can be found flying firstclass
Poor eyesight, though can spot a good pub at 100yards.
-Jim
) This was a on 89 Toyota Corolla SR-5. My GF's car at the time. As for the Master Cylinder.. I cant really answer that question with certainty 
As for my GF's Corolla.. well.. that car had been badly abused and while I am not discounting the varnish build up from fluid interaction from heat & different material composits.. I have a sneaking suspicion on that car that someone put ATX fluid in the master cylinder.. I got some weird looking purple fluid out of those brake lines when I cleaned them. I worked on that car for almost the entire time I dated that lady and in that 9 month period of time.. I had to overhaul almost every system on the car.. thank god we broke up before the trans went LOL
