Spark Plug wires Help Me!!!
Spark Plug wires Help Me!!!
I want to get a good set of performance wires for my ze swap. I went to "Automotive Wearhouse" and all they had was "reactive" and "taylor" wires. Anyone use these? or can lead me in the right direction. I Tried to find Accel cause I heard they were good but no one can get them for me.
HELP GUYS!!!
HELP GUYS!!!
did you try asking for accel's for a probe gt, 626, mx6 or millenia. They will all work.
These are good wires
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... ename=WD1V
These are good wires
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... ename=WD1V
- mitmaks
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i think gro harlem has them and theyre too long, too long of wire=looks funny and you losing hp, spark has to travel through longer wires
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- mitmaks
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but are they same lenght as for k8, anyone know, if so I might get some, my stock NGK's been good but I think i should be replacing them soon
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Unless the igniter and coil performance is really marginal, the extra length will make no discernable difference - after all, it works fine in a Probe. You could double it and not notice, as long as the wires were in good condition.mitmaks wrote:i think gro harlem has them and theyre too long, too long of wire=looks funny and you losing hp, spark has to travel through longer wires
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Fraid not dood. The wires I got are fine
I measured the ohm's between EVERY wire when I first bought them just so I'd know
The short wires were 250-300 ohms and the longer ones were 700-800 ohms.
The peice of s--- NGK's I had on the car before were 2000-3500 ohms.
I'd say thats a good difference right there.
BTW: with a curved neck manifold I would suggest you NEED the long wires.
IF you get the stock MX3's with the KLZE curved neck the wires will be squished between the top of the manifold & the hood. That is how I had my accels routed before & parts of the red silicone jackets are all smudged up and crappy now & parts of the silicone were almost rubbed down to the fiberglass inside the wire![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
And don't buy NGK's. Their quality is really lacking these days. They used to be great, but now they seem to fall apart pretty fast. The crimpers they use to keep the plug boots on don't hold up well.
I measured the ohm's between EVERY wire when I first bought them just so I'd know
The short wires were 250-300 ohms and the longer ones were 700-800 ohms.
The peice of s--- NGK's I had on the car before were 2000-3500 ohms.
I'd say thats a good difference right there.
BTW: with a curved neck manifold I would suggest you NEED the long wires.
IF you get the stock MX3's with the KLZE curved neck the wires will be squished between the top of the manifold & the hood. That is how I had my accels routed before & parts of the red silicone jackets are all smudged up and crappy now & parts of the silicone were almost rubbed down to the fiberglass inside the wire
![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
And don't buy NGK's. Their quality is really lacking these days. They used to be great, but now they seem to fall apart pretty fast. The crimpers they use to keep the plug boots on don't hold up well.
Noble Green Metallic 93' GS Hybrid, 91' 1.8 323
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I still say the effect on performance between 300 Ohm and 800 Ohm will not be noticeable. How many Ohm is the plug gap - probably over 1 MOhm!Gro Harlem wrote:Fraid not dood. The wires I got are fine
I measured the ohm's between EVERY wire when I first bought them just so I'd know
The short wires were 250-300 ohms and the longer ones were 700-800 ohms.
The peice of s--- NGK's I had on the car before were 2000-3500 ohms.
I'd say thats a good difference right there.
Btw, measure the new wires after say 1 year - I expect they will be about the same resistance as the NGKs. The wires are resistive to reduce RFI (radio interference), and it increases with age. If you live out in the sticks, try solid copper wires and see if there's a difference to the engine - unless you have a problem with the igniter or coil, there won't be.
Re-shaped and re-sized gearshift lever. Best driveability mod you can do!
Extra thick soundproofing in the boot (trunk) to quieten my stainless steel exhaust system![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Extra thick soundproofing in the boot (trunk) to quieten my stainless steel exhaust system
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
- XxantwawnxX
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Ive never bought wires for an mx3...i only buy probe wires. So much cheaper : P
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I'll try to pop one off and measure the resistance now. The wires are over a year old right now.IanL wrote:I still say the effect on performance between 300 Ohm and 800 Ohm will not be noticeable. How many Ohm is the plug gap - probably over 1 MOhm!Gro Harlem wrote:Fraid not dood. The wires I got are fine
I measured the ohm's between EVERY wire when I first bought them just so I'd know
The short wires were 250-300 ohms and the longer ones were 700-800 ohms.
The peice of s--- NGK's I had on the car before were 2000-3500 ohms.
I'd say thats a good difference right there.
Btw, measure the new wires after say 1 year - I expect they will be about the same resistance as the NGKs. The wires are resistive to reduce RFI (radio interference), and it increases with age. If you live out in the sticks, try solid copper wires and see if there's a difference to the engine - unless you have a problem with the igniter or coil, there won't be.
I got an ohmeter w/me in my car so it won't be a prob. I might do it tommorrow if i remember.
Noble Green Metallic 93' GS Hybrid, 91' 1.8 323
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