MX-3.com

Hah, well thank you. At this rate, it'll be 2013 before that even happens...

The problem with most CIA kits is they are "short ram" which pulls warm air from the engine bay. a proper cold air kit will have the filter in the fender well or at the base of the engine compartment. The size of your piping and the makeup of your piping contribute but most of the gains are from the filter and type of filter, and whether or not you are actually getting cold air. PRM was the only company that actually had reported gains from their intake system of like 5%. I know that swapping my piping from 2.5" to 3" + my ECU swap increased 10hp over prior dyno #'s.

If you can get the filter low to the ground and or in the fender away from the heat of the engine it will increase slightly. most notice it in the high end. Aluminum piping is better than some of that cheep chrome plates steel crap on Ebay as aluminum dissipates heat faster than steel. There used to be a ebay kit that came with a metal box to enclose your filter in the fender and relocate the coolant overflow bottle. it was decent. The most you will notice is the sound.

My setup worked great, until I got in a wreck, and destroyed it. Considering all of the factors, I believe it's the best setup that can be done without really being seen. I had to relocate my turn signal, though.

The sound is my least favorite part, honestly... I miss the stock sound, but I'd take performance over sound any day. Maybe with exhaust being an exception... I hate it loud at cruise.

I am still trying to decide how I will insulate mine, but I'm removing my stock bumper today to test fit and start messing with my MazdaSpeed finally, which will include a mock-up of my intake(at this point, attached to my K8).

Insulate?

Are you packing fiberglass insulation around it?

There are two reasons to install a cold air intake.

First is to allow you to use a higer flow air filter that is washable like K&N. Second is to be sure there are no air leaks which are inevitable in the stock intake system.

That's it. You can route air from the front of the car, but it won't be any colder than the stock system. You can increase the diameter of the intake but it won't increase performance at all unless you eliminate the VAF, which will always be the most restrictive part of the intake.

You will notice a slight improvement in throttle response (from the improved flow through the filter), but if you gain even 1hp from it I would be shocked. You can use the length of the intake to manipulate the torque curve to a slight degree, but it's not going to make or break anything performance wise.

Josh,
That is my plan as far as testing it goes, using MegaSquirt and an IAT sensor to gauge the difference. I just need to find a more affordable IAT sensor option. I'm contemplating hacking up a JE50 and pulling it out of there, but I'm not sure that'll even work.

I do want to use something a little less bulky for insulation later on, but home insulation seemed like a simple and readily available test product.

wytbishop - I agree with you for the most part. One of the biggest restrictions of the OE system besides the VAF is the ribbed OE hose. This causes a lot of disturbance in the system, If all one were to do is change out the factory rubber section between the VAF and airbox with an aluminum piece it would increase the flow. increasing the power. Is it enough power to be felt not really but it does.

PRM is the only company that I can recall who had actual data on an increase in power. Also the only legit company to make an intake for the MX3. IMO the biggest problem is that most folks go with a 2.5" pipe vs 3". The 2.5" pipe fits inside the TB and the VAF, the OE pipe is 3" anything smaller is restricting.

what's funny is a couple of days ago I came across this vid on YT

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCi2yo4U ... ture=inbox

"Driving around without a light at night means you can't see the zombies."

Got stuck at that part.

That and the fact that they tested it on a turbocharged car w/ an intercooler...

Side note, Lo'fn'l at you arguing with the kids on there Josh.

This is my cai on my xrunner. and it in fact did increase hp, URD has dyno sheets with a 15hp gain and another 15 with a MAF recal

MrMazda92 wrote:"Driving around without a light at night means you can't see the zombies."

Got stuck at that part.

That and the fact that they tested it on a turbocharged car w/ an intercooler...

Side note, Lo'fn'l at you arguing with the kids on there Josh.

I do what I can..

Yeah, same with my RX8 AEM intake and my 3rd gen 3.0 Mitsu eclipse Injen intake. I would say that a properly designed fully functional actual cold air intake will yield power increases but most throw on these cheep ebay filters and pipe that is not designed for anything but looks and expect to see gains. That is just not going to happen. I paid 225 on clearance for my AEM and 300 for the injen. A good reputable band is not cheep but they sure help when designing your own later on down the road.

The one thing I'll say for sure on this, that all cone filters have in common(from my standpoint) is the increase in noise.

They sound kind of cool under full throttle, but the rushing air sound does bother me on the freeway. I think an enclosed filter pod would make it better, honestly... I hope it does.

Seems there is some half decent under standing of what makes more power...

Air flow is key.. The intake design CAI or WAI isn't going to help much if its not designed to flow better...

The spacers you guys talk about, I would love to see proof that its cooling the intake manifold enough to truly create more power... I believe the power being found from intake spacers is due to a change in runner length and better intake tuning....