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Not properly working EGR and winter tires will definitely affect mpg

do you think you could tell me why my car is stalling out now?
could anyone show me a vacuum diagram? for a 1996 1.8l

http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/showimg.php ... F2-007.gif


Welcome to the manuals.


Don't replace s--- at random to fix a problem, that's an idiot tactic. You're wasting money and time. There is a troubleshooting section in the manuals if you don't know enough about cars to intelligently speculate. Of course, that section assumes the owner hasn't played with it and messed it up. It only pin points mechanical problems, not human error.

PATDIESEL wrote:Mmm, metric is confusing to us... lol

I couldn't say exactly, but you could easily have several issues effecting mileage.
Poor fuel filter, improperly inflated tires, bad dirty or stock injector/s, dirty air filter, old or aging spark plugs wires disty cap or rotor, old sticky or failing whel bearings. Just to name the most common.

i watched myth busters last night and they did a comparison of tire pressure in regards to gas mileage. running 4 tires at 10psi, of "simulated" city driving only lowered the milage 1.6% over the recommended pressure, however inflating to 40psi raised it 6.4% and 60psi was around an 8% improvement. not that this helps anything... just an interesting fact

thanks, but thats the same diagram im using in the first place, thought maybe there would be a different one for a 1996, cause that ones for a 1994.

i use shopkey5 for all my manuals, and im taking mechanics so i know enough about cars.

How far are you into your 'training'? Is English your first language?

The vac will be the pretty much the same, or intuitively different, if you know how it works. You can see how each solenoid works in the manuals in the F2 section.

Stalling out issues 99% of the time are vac issues. It could also be an ignition issue (misplaced plug wires, poor ignition timing)

I'm half way done my course, and yes english is my first language.

im going out now to try and figure out if i maybe misplaced a vac hose.

so i fixed the vacuum problem, it was the vac hose that goes around the back block, must have got knocked off when i wasputting the mani on.

now just to fix the gas problem and power lost

Horrible ignition timing or lack of ignition could cause both those problems. I'm pretty sure you're not an idiot, but check to make sure your plug wires are correct, and re-set the ignition timing properly with a timing light. A set of new plugs/wires/cap/rotor wouldn't hurt either.

Also it was mentioned that your EGR might be stuck, that would cause havoc too.

i checked my timing at school and it was dead on, and i already replaced plugs and wire, cap and rotor, and fuel filter.

is there anyway to check the egr valve?

to test the actual valve you can suck on the vacuum hose coming off the top of the egr. it should open and close smoothly when you suck/release, and it should also hold a vacuum once its open. if it doesnt hold a vacuum or doesnt open or close smoothly its faulty. if it is sticking or moving unsmoothly you can probably get away with cleaning it. if you want to test the sensor and not remove it off the car you need to measure the voltage readings coming off with the ignition on(car off) while you suck. closed should be around 0v and fully open should be pretty close to 5v with a linear increase related to how open the valve is. its a bit easier (to test) if you remove it as you can clean the valve while your at it, its just a huge pain in the a-- to get it off the motor.

testing the solenoids is a bit trickier, you need to supply voltage to activate the solenoid which should either stop or start airflow (more sucking). the solenoids dont usually fail as far as i know. if you need to know how to route the vacuum lines for them i can find a picture i made with the details.

wow mike thats some wicked detail;s there, ill have to try that when i get back to school im on my christmas break right now. but ya if you wanna send me a vac diagram tha would be great.

also my check engine light just came on tonight so ill have to test that when i get back into school to.

thanks mike

the nipple that says "airbox? vacuum?" goes on the intake. it needs a vacuum to function when the rpms raise, but when your at idle it needs to be at atmospheric pressure so the egr can close properly. the other vacuum line can be tied in to pretty much any vacuum source. its a pretty easy system once you figure it out. when i was trying to get my egr working properly it was such a headache, i just couldnt put all the info together in a way that made sense to me...

so what your saying is that i need to suck on the egr hose and if it keeps suction the egr valve it good? but if it does then i need to replace the egr valve?

man i just want my power and fuel effencency back!

egr wont really affect your milage really. its more of a emission control device. the only way it would cause performance issues would be if the valve is stuck open. its not that important of a part, if your valve isnt stuck open and you dont want to mess around with it just leave it disconnected. you may however get a cel if its not operating properly.