Installed AWR racing polyurethane front engine mount.. wow!

V6 Technical/Performance Discussions
nightfire
Regular Member
Posts: 756
Joined: March 1st, 2007, 11:17 pm
Location: Montreal

Post by nightfire »

Slammed6 wrote:Nope-mx3 -- Well there is no real how to....just remove old ones and install the new ones. If you mean for the Probe mount, its a direct drop in but the holes on your crossmember need to be opened from the original 3/8" to 1/2" and that can be done in 2 secs with a drill motor. You don't even have to remove it.

Whisper -- There is a medium point for comfortability and performance. Engine mounts are a big way to add comfortability, less engine vibration and that means quieter cabin noises. If you notice the more performance cars u buy the more u will notice engine vibration cause stronger mounts will add performance. If your motor is vibrating THAT much to cause things to fall off your car something needs to be checked out, I have had solid mounts in my cars and with a proper running engine the cars is barely vibrating...hardly noticable. Just feels 10x more solid.

Think of it the same as your springs for your car. OEM is soft and has alot of play to make the ride more comfortable. As you upgrade in cars performance you can feel a stiffer ride. Even though this cause more "vibration" through the frame is is not bad...just uncomfortable for the average person, unless your looking for the stiffer performance orientated ride.
Yeah that's it...

My passengers always complain about a harsh ride in my car, but I absolutely love it. The connection with the road inspires so much confidence and control.

Now, it's not good from a marketing perspective because 99% of drivers want a smooth, comfortable, reliable, low maintenance car... they don't care about performance. But it's a sacrifice I'm willing to make.

The solid motor mounts do decrease driveability in one way (louder cabin noise, vibration) but increase it in another (far less bucking, slightly more power and control, less wheel hop). For me it's worth the trade.

Same thing for urethane control arm bushings. Bumps are harsh, and maintenance is a b----, but the suspension geometry doesn't change around corners. It's more predictable. Again less wheel hop.

And for that matter, same for a shortshifter with metal bushings. More maintenance required (tightening every 6 months). Harder to shift (more force required). Engine vibrations in the arm.

But can you ever bang the gears in a hurry.... :)
- Gord
1996 MX-3 GS-ZE 2.5L 5spd
KLZE+LSD / Headers / KL02 VAF / Clutchmasters stage-I / Fidanza 9lb flywheel / Eibach Pro Kit / Tokico HPs / Urethane bushings & mounts / SSR Comp-C 16x7 / General Exclaim UHP 205/45R16 / Wilwood 13" brakes / Whiteline rear swaybar / Carputer / Software Crossover / Infinity components+subs / 41hz Tripath Amp9 / Trunk SLA batt / Keyless entry
User avatar
mx3autozam
Senior Member
Posts: 2950
Joined: September 24th, 2005, 9:09 pm
Location: Kitchener

Post by mx3autozam »

nightfire wrote:But can you ever bang the gears in a hurry.... :)
no need to bang any gears, just learn how to shift!
93 Mazda MX3 KLZE Turbo
nightfire
Regular Member
Posts: 756
Joined: March 1st, 2007, 11:17 pm
Location: Montreal

Post by nightfire »

mx3autozam wrote:
nightfire wrote:But can you ever bang the gears in a hurry.... :)
no need to bang any gears, just learn how to shift!
Aye.... I can shift. 8) I mean shift quickly, not literally bang something.
- Gord
1996 MX-3 GS-ZE 2.5L 5spd
KLZE+LSD / Headers / KL02 VAF / Clutchmasters stage-I / Fidanza 9lb flywheel / Eibach Pro Kit / Tokico HPs / Urethane bushings & mounts / SSR Comp-C 16x7 / General Exclaim UHP 205/45R16 / Wilwood 13" brakes / Whiteline rear swaybar / Carputer / Software Crossover / Infinity components+subs / 41hz Tripath Amp9 / Trunk SLA batt / Keyless entry
Post Reply

Return to “V6 Technical/Performance”