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Tunes67
"MacGivered"...I love it. You mean you replaced a KL68 TB throttle lever spring with another one because of similar issues?ratkon wrote:I Magivered a spring on mine,works great.The gas pedal is a bit stiffer,but thats cool.
I think that may have been a contributer before but as mentioned, over a month ago I did a removal and complete cleaning. The idle air screw was pretty knarly looking and the corresponding passageway was also pretty carboned and gunked up. Like I said every thing is as clean as a whistle now. I must mention that when butterfly is moved to WOT, there is a bit of lateral free-play with the butterfly and I'm not sure if this is within tolerances. I've also found that it would not be prudent to try a TPS and throttle lever adjustment based on the specs of the K8 since the K8 TB throttle lever configuration is not at all the same as the KL68. Copies of the applicable shop manual pages of the Millennia TB confirm this. I do however notice that there is a dramatic decrease in the amount of slack in the throttle cable once the engine has reached operating temperature. In my mind though I believe that everything in this scenario is temp/heat related. Differences in the metals within the TB re-acting differently, the location of the CAI filter - in fender well or somewhere else in the (HOT) engine bay. If I travel at a sane speed through the country and come to a stop the problem is less pronounced. However, city driving and no matter how many times I snap the gas pedal, the idle won't come down. Not until I've driven a bit at a sustained 50-60 mph for a few minutes for the engine temp to come down slightly (I believe) and following that drive it's almost guaranteed that when I come to a stop if it doesn't come down to normal idle on itself a quick snap of the gas pedal (only once is needed here) and it returns to 650rpm. So like I said, to me a think it's temp related, but how is a real head scratcher. Ya a real super super strong return spring on the throttle lever might minimize but I don't think it's getting to the heart of the matter. There must be someone who's crossed this obstacle.PATDIESEL wrote:<stands up> Hi my name is Patrick and I also having a sticky throttle... LOL
I also thought it might be a idle air controll problem. Any thoughts on that?
These are just some suggestions - not intentionally critical. I know how frustrating this problem can be and how great it feels once solved. My problem was intermittent and completely resolved by routing to minimize friction. I looked at your work log to see how cable routing on a RHD car might still bind. Your throttle cable makes a sharp left hand turn after coming through the firewall. I know you're looking for a neat engine compartment, but you might allow the cable to run a wider turn around the brake booster / reservoir. The angle on the throttle bracket also may be adding some friction. Is the throttle cable adjusted with some slack? You should be able to gently tug on the bare cable between the throttle bracket and the throttle plate mechanism with no change in rpm. You won't feel it in the gas pedal. The gas pedal is also part of the system. A sticky gas pedal will make the situation worse.RX8SE3P wrote:Bumping this thread, I'm having the same issue. Revs can get stuck at around 1500-2000 because there is too much slop in the cable. I've tried playing with the throttle brackets angle etc but the issue seems to be simply the cable is too long. Looking under my gas pedal I can see at least a half inch or so of cable coming through.
Surely someone has made a fool proof fix for this issue since this thread was made?
*Curve neck IM on a ZE*
*RHD car*