Mooneggs 92 MX-3 Race Car IP - 2013 in Review

[Mooneggs]

My winter project begins... soon.

[Mooneggs]

So I finally started putting some effort into getting this car running. I have made an inventory of the things I need to do and buy to get it into hopefully driveable shape. I have a feeling that the excessive crankcase pressure and overheating problems I was having will be completely resolved once I get everything put back in. The reason I think this way is because I had both of those issues in the DD the last 2 years and was able to resolve them by having proper ventilation and using the correct radiator.

Parts to install:
New radiator, new hoses, new caps, new thermostat/gasket
Fuel rails with OEM FPR, new fuel filter, new fuel pump (walbro 255)
New battery
Rebuilt CAI with PRM filter (mirror DD)
New Accel igntion module for HEI (I also have a new MSD blaster coil if necessary)
New PCV valve/grommet and mirror all PCV hoses from DD
OEM check valve to brake booster
New spark plugs and wires
110 amp Alternator
KLZE Distributor
New belts
Any other random parts I had loaned to the DD...

[wertys]

It's funny reading winter project as my kind of winter stops me for doing anything

[Mooneggs]

So I put in about 20 hours this weekend and finished up all the stuff that had to be done. The fantastic part was that it fired up immediately - note this engine hasn't been cranked in probably 2 years or so... The original reason I stopped driving this car was for 2 reasons: Excessive Crankcase Pressure and Overheating issues.

Root Cause:
Excessive Crankcase Pressure: Vacuum lines were not run correctly (missing a pcv line to the air intake tube) and one of the main IM vacuum nipples was COMPLETELY clogged and took me about 20 minutes to dig out with some dental tools and a shop vac.

Overheating issues: The radiator in this car was not OEM and was missing one of the recirculation ports for the hose by the fan.

Anyways so far I haven't driven it too much but I am fairly confident that after running it for about half an hour neither of these issues showed up. I am going to go for DEQ testing Friday and if it passes I will re-register and it will be ready for Autocross this weekend Hopefully no issues pop up!

[wytbishop]

Nice work buddy!

Still offering cold hard cash for the TSW's if you ever want it. Just saying.

[Mooneggs]

lol Charlie, I will never sell them

Anyways, more progress this weekend. I found another dead colony of mice under the the front middle console... Sigh... that makes about 30 total dead mice I have found in this car. I guess I never mentioned the whole community that was dead in the trunk... Needless to say it does not smell great inside...

I completed the following tasks as well as a general clean up and vacuum:
Re-wire front turn signals and parking lights
Wire up front foglights + switch
Install all new light bulbs - chrome for front, LED for rear markers and license lights, long LEDs for interior overhead console
Install new license plate lenses and overhead console lense
Install SE stitched shift knob
Install new OEM shift boot
Install MS Wheel and quick release hub

And best of all I was able to pass DEQ so I can get it registered this week so I can legally drive it places

Soon I will get to the rest of the super awesome parts that I have waiting to install!!

[bogaut]

drive it this way sometime soon. i still gotta see this car

[marcdh]

wow I can't believe all those mice were in it! That's great news it's finally progressing again. Will this actually become the racecar?

[Surgeonasst222]

wow I can't believe all those mice were in it! That's great news it's finally progressing again. Will this actually become the racecar?

ROFL 30 of them!!!

I am glad Michigan doesn't have these emission test they sound like a pain.

[Mooneggs]

wow I can't believe all those mice were in it! That's great news it's finally progressing again. Will this actually become the racecar?

Yes... this klze only has around 10k miles on it. Upcoming installation items include (but are not limited to):

Traction bars (2 versions)
90 Durometer Wytbushings for the rear
SS bushings for the front LCA
5 point harnesses

Later projects:
K-Sport coilovers (potentially custom with remote resevoirs)
LSD (Researching KAAZ vs. Quaife vs. MFactory)

Even later projects:
Adjustable cam gears
Stratified MS PnP
70mm bored TB (with no IAC)

[Custommx3]

Glad to see you got it figured out Mark!!

[crazycanadian]

LSD (Researching KAAZ vs. Quaife vs. MFactory)

I can narrow that research a bit for you...

Quaife and Mfactory are both torque sensing helical style diffs.. They use worm gears instead of clutches.. Both are great diffs and have lots of good reviews. When you up grade to one you are more likely to break other things in your transmissions before you break the diff.. Both diffs have no adjustments and are very easy to maintain.. There isn't much to wear out on them either..

The down fall to these diffs.. Since they use worm gears instead of clutches they rely on both front tires having traction in order to work... If you are really unloading your inner front tire during hard cornering the diff is going to act more like an open diff when you try and put the power down.. When the tire gets enough weight on it for the diff to start working the diff will have more of a harsh engagement... This may or may not be a problem, it really can depend on suspension/chassis set up...

If I had to choose between Quaife and Mfactory, I would go with Mfactory due to price point and availability...

KAAZ is different type of diff... Its still a torque sensing diff but it uses clutch packs... The KAAZ diffs are 1.5 way diffs for the G series transmissions.. The KAAZ diff is also adjustable for how strong it locks up.. When you order them, they come set up at 100%.. You can adjust it down to either 60% or 30% by restacking the clutch plates before you install the diff..

What makes the KAAZ different is not only the ability to adjust how much it locks up but also how it works.. Because its a clutch type diff when you lift/unload an inside tire during heavy cornering the KAAZ still provides some power to the inside tire.... This makes the diff work smoother when you unload a tire and try powering out of a corner and then the tire becomes loaded again..

The down fall to the KAAZ diff is maintenance.. The clutches require gear oil with a special posi additive, you can not use synthetics.. You have to change the fluid more often, also the clutches will wear out over time.. Eventually the diff would need to be rebuilt... Because you have to run gear oil the transmission syncros don't really like cold weather.. The transmission becomes stiff to shift, sometimes a little crunchy while shifting until the fluid is warmed up.. Also if you keep the diff set up at 100% lock you get some noise and clunking in the front end while driving on the street... This happens mainly during low speed cornering when you are trying to take off and make a turn at the same time.. It happens because the diff is locking up and the clutch plates are chattering a bit...

Price wise the KAAZ diff is one of the most expensive options...

Pricing when I was looking around.
Quaife $1200 - 1500
Mfactory was around $700 - 800
My KAAZ was about $1200 by the time it landed on my front door...

I have only really had experience with my KAAZ diff, when it comes to a KL powered car.. I have had experience with a helical style diffs in 4x4's and my buddies FSP focus but non of its really the same... I have lots of great things to say about my diff, and would suggest spending the extra for it... when I come down for an event I'll let you take it for a couple runs and you can see how it works..

[Mooneggs]

Awesome thanks for the info! Yeah we can trade cars and see how different they feel!

[Mooneggs]

10 months without an update!

OK well let's get right to it! As you could see by my last updates in March that I finally got the car running and was all tuned up and really running quite well. I drove it for a few months, did a few things until I got backed into by a massive Dodge Ram pickup that was trying to parallel park Fortunately I came back to the car before he left and we exchanged information... however as you may be aware, it is not very easy to source parts from Europe... I was able to pop out the dent in the bumper but the support needs to be replaced.

Projects completed in 2013:
• Get the car up and running and registered
• Wire up foglights
• Swapped in OEM Leather front seats and AZ-3 Trim
• Swapped hatches from Wraparound / Eunos indiglo for MS Wing / AZ-3 indiglo.
• Re-installed the CD Receiver
• Rolled all 4 fenders for tire clearance
• After wreck, removed front bumper and popped out dent from it, removed support

Projects planned for 2014:
• Change oil and install Magnetic Drain Plug
• Determine issue with car not remaining started... will stall unless continued to be manually revved above 1500rpm. Will rent compression tester to start.
• Source another bumper support from Europe
• Install MS Rear Sway Bar
• Experiment with MS Replica Front bumper (currently being fiberglass supported)
• Install AST Coilovers and Cusco upper camber plates
• Install Wytbushings in rear, replace lateral links/bolts if necessary
• Install front traction bar
• Install front Stainless Steel in LCA
• Install USDM side skirts correctly using instructions
• Install and wire both sides lighted outer door handles with CF overlays
• Modify Driver's Side Power Folding Mirror, wire heated element to defrost button and re-wire to push button switch viewtopic.php?f=17&t=78015
• There's so much more on the lists for this car! I have most of the parts already actually...

Now to the pics!

[Nd4SpdSe]

What's that box under the drivers seat?

For the truck/bumper, he hit you I take it? Get compensated for it?