Fuse question

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Also anything dealing with the elctrical system.
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blaze93gs
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Fuse question

Post by blaze93gs »

Under the hood of our cars there's a fuse box that says (AD FAN) 40A and ABS 60A. What does the AD FAN do and is it normal for the fuse to be blown from age?
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wednesdayslatest
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Re: Fuse question

Post by wednesdayslatest »

any fuse will blow from age

and the AD FAN is probably the addition fan or the high temp fan that goes on second when the engine is really hot, usually it doesnt need that i got my first fan on a switch and i dont ever need the 2nd one
03 Dodge Neon (rental i had for a month but i ran that into the ground for sure)
95 Chrysler Concorde (Junked my first car [still ran])
90 Nissan Stanza (Junked [wouldnt start one day])
89 Saab 9000 CD (sedan/turbo very fun but electrical problems[city towed away for no plates on private property])
94 Toyota Camry (mothers old car fixed it then broke it[dont ask] Junked)
93 MX-3 RS (My project for 3 years so far)
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Daninski
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Re: Fuse question

Post by Daninski »

wednesdayslatest wrote:any fuse will blow from age

and the AD FAN is probably the addition fan or the high temp fan that goes on second when the engine is really hot, usually it doesnt need that i got my first fan on a switch and i dont ever need the 2nd one
Your totally fu@ked dude. What the hell are you saying here. Stop responding if you have no idea what your talking about. Seriously
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Re: Fuse question

Post by mitmaks »

Daninski wrote:
wednesdayslatest wrote:any fuse will blow from age

and the AD FAN is probably the addition fan or the high temp fan that goes on second when the engine is really hot, usually it doesnt need that i got my first fan on a switch and i dont ever need the 2nd one
Your totally fu@ked dude. What the hell are you saying here. Stop responding if you have no idea what your talking about. Seriously
I sent him a warning. If he keeps on posting I think I'll just have to ban him. I think this might be some underage kid posting.
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wednesdayslatest
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Re: Fuse question

Post by wednesdayslatest »

mitmaks wrote:
Daninski wrote:
wednesdayslatest wrote:any fuse will blow from age

and the AD FAN is probably the addition fan or the high temp fan that goes on second when the engine is really hot, usually it doesnt need that i got my first fan on a switch and i dont ever need the 2nd one
Your totally fu@ked dude. What the hell are you saying here. Stop responding if you have no idea what your talking about. Seriously
I sent him a warning. If he keeps on posting I think I'll just have to ban him. I think this might be some underage kid posting.

WTF im 25 and still neither one of you answered the question. how about this ID like to know the answer too, seeing as im so wrong about it. why dont you INFORM me
03 Dodge Neon (rental i had for a month but i ran that into the ground for sure)
95 Chrysler Concorde (Junked my first car [still ran])
90 Nissan Stanza (Junked [wouldnt start one day])
89 Saab 9000 CD (sedan/turbo very fun but electrical problems[city towed away for no plates on private property])
94 Toyota Camry (mothers old car fixed it then broke it[dont ask] Junked)
93 MX-3 RS (My project for 3 years so far)
97 Honda Civshit (Beater/Stereotypical POS Honda im fixing)
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Re: Fuse question

Post by Nd4SpdSe »

Don't MISINFORM people if you, yourself, aren't IMFORMED.

"AD FAN" stands for "Additional Fan", referencing to the cooling fan for the Air Conditioning, so obviously you must have A/C.

Like anything, a fuse can die from age/use, but really, it's a non-issue, don't worry about that. What I would look more into is the actually A/C Fan. As electric motors start to wear, they have a hard time and start to draw more and more current (amps), where eventually it would draw more than the fuse protecting that circuit, and pop it. It can also fail siezed and a very high resistance, create a short, or just fail open, but the latter wouldn't cause a blown fuse.

There are 2 versions of the main cooling fan, one is a single speed, another is a dual speed. If I remember right, the dual-speed was for the automatics, while the single speed is for the manuals.
1992 Mazda Mx-3 GSR - 2.5L KLZE : Award Winning Show Car & Race Car ['02-'09] (Retired)
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
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wednesdayslatest
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Re: Fuse question

Post by wednesdayslatest »

Nd4SpdSe wrote:Don't MISINFORM people if you, yourself, aren't IMFORMED.

"AD FAN" stands for "Additional Fan", referencing to the cooling fan for the Air Conditioning, so obviously you must have A/C.

Like anything, a fuse can die from age/use, but really, it's a non-issue, don't worry about that. What I would look more into is the actually A/C Fan. As electric motors start to wear, they have a hard time and start to draw more and more current (amps), where eventually it would draw more than the fuse protecting that circuit, and pop it. It can also fail siezed and a very high resistance, create a short, or just fail open, but the latter wouldn't cause a blown fuse.

There are 2 versions of the main cooling fan, one is a single speed, another is a dual speed. If I remember right, the dual-speed was for the automatics, while the single speed is for the manuals.

well i was right about the "additional fan" part, now i understand that the 2nd fan there is to cool the ac because its right infront of it (makes sense) my ac is no longer (if thats the case do i even need the 2nd fan? )

and i was right about the fuse and its fact its not lifetime it WILL blow.

but the thing about the motor when it gets old and draws more power till its too much and pops the fuse i didnt know about. thanks for that ill keep that in mind from now on.
(my civic blower motor seems to have gotten stuck and doesnt blow anymore. the motor was still going i could smell it burning so i turned it off and it DIDNT pop a fuse so i see what you mean there too)

thanks for the info it will come in very useful to me later on
03 Dodge Neon (rental i had for a month but i ran that into the ground for sure)
95 Chrysler Concorde (Junked my first car [still ran])
90 Nissan Stanza (Junked [wouldnt start one day])
89 Saab 9000 CD (sedan/turbo very fun but electrical problems[city towed away for no plates on private property])
94 Toyota Camry (mothers old car fixed it then broke it[dont ask] Junked)
93 MX-3 RS (My project for 3 years so far)
97 Honda Civshit (Beater/Stereotypical POS Honda im fixing)
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Re: Fuse question

Post by Nd4SpdSe »

wednesdayslatest wrote:and i was right about the fuse and its fact its not lifetime it WILL blow.
Maybe, maybe not, you don't know this. You can have fuses in your car for 20 years that will never blow in the life of the car. Last year, I had 2 fuses blow in the truck, one for signals, the other for the brake lights. I replaced the fuses, and it never happened again. Maybe it's a bulb that cause the problem, maybe it's the fuse that decided to let go, maybe I had a surge in draw in the electical system and those are the ones that popped, there's no way to know unless it happens again, AND your monitoring it where you can replate it blowing to a specific scenario or event.

In cars specifically, the fuses get exposes to bumps, vibrations and shocks, and theyre also exposed to the elements, large changes in expose termperature, quick changes in temperature, humidity and changes in humidity levels. This can of course cause the fuse element to become weak, either lessening it's rated current load and blowing prematurely, or just breaking because of the rough conditions/vibrations.

WILL a fuse blow? Ya, of course, but in 1 year, 10 years, 100 years, 1000+ years? You don't know. If one randomly does go, unless you routinely inspect your fuses under a microscope on a regular basis, you don't know why it blew either. A fuse will blow, like your motor will eventually pop, and your car eventually rust, and the rubber eventually crack, and the plastics eventually become brittle...nothing will last forever

Here's an example.

http://www.cooperindustries.com/content ... ailure.pdf
“Does Cooper Bussmann provide, or have, MTBF data for its fuses and holders?”

Cooper Bussmann does not have or provide Mean Time Between Failures (MTBF) data for our
fuses and fuse holders as they are passive devices. As such, they remain passive until an
overcurrent event occurs.

When an overcurrent event occurs, the fuse opens as designed and interrupts the flow of current.
This is not a “fuse failure,” but a proper function of the fuse design.

What are perceived as fuse and/or fuse holder “Failures” are mostly reactions to excess heat
produced by loose or corroded connections, improper component sizing or application outside the
devices’ operating temperature range. These are not device failures, but rather inappropriate
device selection.

Fuses do not require maintenance until an overcurrent event causes them to open – then they
need replacing. Although not always necessary, an infrared inspection every 3 to 5 years is a
good practice. This would reveal any excess heat conditions that are most apt to cause a
nuisance fuse opening and should be addressed.
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Re: Fuse question

Post by wednesdayslatest »

thanks for that info. i dont know too much, fuses just that they pop and they need replacing. the new ones that light up when they pop are nice but cost a lot. the old fuses the glass ones (not the ones for this car) you could wrap with tin foil and theyll never need replacing again, at least thats what this old guy told me but thats for old cars with thos types of fuses
03 Dodge Neon (rental i had for a month but i ran that into the ground for sure)
95 Chrysler Concorde (Junked my first car [still ran])
90 Nissan Stanza (Junked [wouldnt start one day])
89 Saab 9000 CD (sedan/turbo very fun but electrical problems[city towed away for no plates on private property])
94 Toyota Camry (mothers old car fixed it then broke it[dont ask] Junked)
93 MX-3 RS (My project for 3 years so far)
97 Honda Civshit (Beater/Stereotypical POS Honda im fixing)
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Re: Fuse question

Post by Nd4SpdSe »

wednesdayslatest wrote:the old fuses the glass ones (not the ones for this car) you could wrap with tin foil and theyll never need replacing again, at least thats what this old guy told me but thats for old cars with thos types of fuses
That's horrendous advice! All you're doing is bypassing the fuse with a piece of metal. You can do that with any type of fuse, and it's absolutely dangerous where you can cause damage to your electrical system or worse, cause it to catch fire!

This is no joke, and a serious danger, never, ever, EVER, EVER! replace a fuse with a piece of metal or a larger value fuse, unless it's very temporary and it's to get you out of a hard jam. Remember the fuse blew for a reason, cause 98% chance there's a problem in that circuit, and by bypassing the fuse, your taking the safety out of the circuit
1992 Mazda Mx-3 GSR - 2.5L KLZE : Award Winning Show Car & Race Car ['02-'09] (Retired)
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
2001 Nissan Frontier SE - The Frontrailer : Expedition/Off-Road Trailer Project
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wednesdayslatest
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Re: Fuse question

Post by wednesdayslatest »

Nd4SpdSe wrote:
wednesdayslatest wrote:the old fuses the glass ones (not the ones for this car) you could wrap with tin foil and theyll never need replacing again, at least thats what this old guy told me but thats for old cars with thos types of fuses
That's horrendous advice! All you're doing is bypassing the fuse with a piece of metal. You can do that with any type of fuse, and it's absolutely dangerous where you can cause damage to your electrical system or worse, cause it to catch fire!

This is no joke, and a serious danger, never, ever, EVER, EVER! replace a fuse with a piece of metal or a larger value fuse, unless it's very temporary and it's to get you out of a hard jam. Remember the fuse blew for a reason, cause 98% chance there's a problem in that circuit, and by bypassing the fuse, your taking the safety out of the circuit

well after you told me about how the fuse really works i can see why lol

i doubt id really be able to do it these these types of fuses. but regardless i know that i fuse is a beaker incase of a short to protect the wires id never use metal to replace MY fuses. someone just told me you can only do it with the old glass fuses on like 60s cars and stuff before these types of fuses came out (the old fuse almost looks like a lightbulb)

i personally wouldnt even suggest a bigger fuse. or at least too big i pout a 40 amp fuse in my 15 amp spot (biggest mistake ever) im payin for it now though

only information i got was "its too strong" nothing else no reason why or anything if he told me what you told me on this thread i would of never done it. i guess you live and learn and fix the mistakes lol

from now on i only use the correct fuse and nothing else because im not risking another electrical short and yes ive had wires burn up on me quite a few times but no fires thankfully
03 Dodge Neon (rental i had for a month but i ran that into the ground for sure)
95 Chrysler Concorde (Junked my first car [still ran])
90 Nissan Stanza (Junked [wouldnt start one day])
89 Saab 9000 CD (sedan/turbo very fun but electrical problems[city towed away for no plates on private property])
94 Toyota Camry (mothers old car fixed it then broke it[dont ask] Junked)
93 MX-3 RS (My project for 3 years so far)
97 Honda Civshit (Beater/Stereotypical POS Honda im fixing)
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mitmaks
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Re: Fuse question

Post by mitmaks »

wednesdayslatest wrote:any fuse will blow from age

and the AD FAN is probably the addition fan or the high temp fan that goes on second when the engine is really hot, usually it doesnt need that i got my first fan on a switch and i dont ever need the 2nd one
2nd fan is for A/C system. DON'T give advice if you don't know what you're talking about. Go watch youtube or something, please stay away from posting uneducated guesses.
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Re: Fuse question

Post by wednesdayslatest »

mitmaks wrote:
wednesdayslatest wrote:any fuse will blow from age

and the AD FAN is probably the addition fan or the high temp fan that goes on second when the engine is really hot, usually it doesnt need that i got my first fan on a switch and i dont ever need the 2nd one
2nd fan is for A/C system. DON'T give advice if you don't know what you're talking about. Go watch youtube or something, please stay away from posting uneducated guesses.

so since i dont use my ac system can take out the ad fan for weight? or can i still use it for something?

and fyi youtube usually s-cks and is not too discriptive and doesnt answer questions.
03 Dodge Neon (rental i had for a month but i ran that into the ground for sure)
95 Chrysler Concorde (Junked my first car [still ran])
90 Nissan Stanza (Junked [wouldnt start one day])
89 Saab 9000 CD (sedan/turbo very fun but electrical problems[city towed away for no plates on private property])
94 Toyota Camry (mothers old car fixed it then broke it[dont ask] Junked)
93 MX-3 RS (My project for 3 years so far)
97 Honda Civshit (Beater/Stereotypical POS Honda im fixing)
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Re: Fuse question

Post by Nd4SpdSe »

wednesdayslatest wrote:so since i dont use my ac system can take out the ad fan for weight? or can i still use it for something?
Ideally, I would of said to keep the original rad fan hooked up as originally controlled, and hook up the A/C fan to your switch as a secondary/additional cooler
1992 Mazda Mx-3 GSR - 2.5L KLZE : Award Winning Show Car & Race Car ['02-'09] (Retired)
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
2001 Nissan Frontier SE - The Frontrailer : Expedition/Off-Road Trailer Project
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