Idle Problem

[Oke]

Anyone?

[Oke]

Hy again,
I tried to tune the idle with the TPS but the measurments are ok. I put the car in DIAG mode but nothing changed, only the colling fan started to work, i removed the plug, and then i tried again with the idle screw, but nothing. The car is stil arround 1300-1500rpm, the fuel consumption big.
The car before this problem was pulling hard after 4000rpm now i dont feal that kick, the exhaust goes boom when i change at high rpms, and at idle it's noth smoth alsow, and there is a smel of fuel.
Can the removal of the catalitic can have something to do with all of this.
Thanks all.

[davmac]

The catalytic converter is not a problem.

The TPS is not ok. You proved the TPS is not set by telling us the fans turned on. You can get a rough setting of the TPS by using the fans. I recommend you follow the service manual procedure and use a multimeter and feeler gauge to set the position of the TPS. But you can get the TPS close using the fan method of setting the position of the TPS.
The Fan Method of setting the TPS (copied from probetalk archive with minor edits):

Goal: Adjust your throttle position sensor (TPS). Set the TPS at the point where the fans just turn off (in diagnostic mode and ignition key in on position).

If you have a 7mm socket use that to loosen the TPS screws. Use a Phillips screwdriver to tighten them up. Using a Phillips screwdriver may strip the screws if you have never loosened them before.

1) Find the diagnostics box:
http://home.comcast.net/~mmunoz70/z/diagbox.jpg

2) Use a small paperclip to jump the TEN and GND (pic follows):
http://home.comcast.net/~mmunoz70/z/paperclip.jpg
Jumped diag box:
http://home.comcast.net/~mmunoz70/z/pinout.jpg

3) Turn the ignition key to the "on" position. The car doesn't have to be running.

4) Then rotate the TPS (keep the screws slightly “draggy” to hold the TPS):
http://home.comcast.net/~mmunoz70/z/tps01.jpg

5) The fan will turn on or off as you turn the TPS. Your TPS is correctly set at the point when the fans turn off. Snap the throttle body linkage open a couple times to make sure the fans stay off when the throttle closes.

[Oke]

Thank you very much for the info, i will try this. I will post the results. Thanks again.

[Redline322]

If adjusting the TPS does not work, try adjusting your ignition timing by loosening the bolts on your distributor with the ten and gnd jumpered and slowly move it back and forth, see if there is any improvement. Tighten the bolts back down, go for a quick drive and see if it gets better or worse. You might have to do this a few times to get it where you want.

[davmac]

Follow this order:

1. Set TPS
2. Set idle speed
3. Set timing

You cannot set timing until the idle speed is set at 650 - 700.
This is what it means to set base timing = timing when engine is warm and at idle speed
Both idle speed and timing is set in diagnostic mode (jumper TEN and GND terminal in diagnostic connector).

Use a timing light and tachometer to set timing.
After idle is set it will be easy to set timing.
You cannot set timing by ear or trial and error. You can make timing better or worse, but you must have a timing light and tachometer to set your timing.

[Oke]

Hy, i will print every info from here, and i will giv it to a mechanic, maybe then he will make the car work in order. It's imposible to fiind a mechanic here that has some idea about japan cars, only the MAZDA showroom will know something but about this model i think they dont know much, and the cost for a repair there it will be the value of the car maybe. Can the sparks or maybe something like this can make this problems, because the smoke smeals gass big time and after i drive the car hard when i realse the pedal blue smoke comes out of the exhaust, and when i change in high rpm the exhauste explodes, or only the idle is the reason for this?
Thanks, thank you a milliont times for the help, and sorry but my mechanical knowledge is limited.