Just Bought My 1st MX-3

[umcamara]

Online Manual

[Inodoro Pereyra]

Hey man. Welcome to the forum.
Just in case you didn't know, there's an online factory shop manual link on the main-page. There's more info in there than you could ever care to know.

i cant seem to find it, could anyone point me in the right direction?

also, i've flush the coolant, what are the factory specs for refilling (ie. how much? what mixture, etc)

Well, I don't know squat about OBD, either I or II, so I can't help you there. Sorry.

But the coolant ratio you should use is 50% water, 50% coolant. I'm not sure about the coolant capacity of the system, but I think 1 gallon of straight antifreeze (makes 2 gallons), should be enough.

[Redline322]

If you look under the hood, there's a diagnostic port, grab a small piece of wire and jump it to where it says ten and ground. Turn the ignition to on and the CEL light will start to flash your codes and just count the flashes, long flash is first digit, short is 2nd. Here's the codes:
02 Distributor Ne-signal
03 Distributor G-signal
08 Airflow Sensor
09 Coolant temp. sensor
10 Intake air temp. sensor
12 Throttle position sensor
14 Barometric pressure sensor
15 O2 sensor
17 O2 sensor has detected a rich or lean condition
25 Solenoid valve (fuel pressure regulator)
26 Solenoid valve (purge control)
34 IAC valve
41 Solenoid valve (VICS)
To delete the codes, just disconnect your battery for about a min or so and you should be good. If it seems to be running rough like alot of cam, make sure there's no leaks in your intake tube and you can advance or retard the idle with the distributor, clockwise is advance, counter clockwise to retard I believe. There is an idle adjust screw on top of the throttlebody, possibly under a small rubber plug to fine tune the idle and 750-1000rpm is a good idle for the B6. Just test the throttle response, there should be a slight bog at first, but it should be good after that, too retarded will bog like crazy and probably misfire. Oh, the cooling system holds roughly a gallon and a half I believe and a 50-50 mix should be good.

[beefmobile]

If you look under the hood, there's a diagnostic port, grab a small piece of wire and jump it to where it says ten and ground. Turn the ignition to on and the CEL light will start to flash your codes and just count the flashes, long flash is first digit, short is 2nd. Here's the codes:
02 Distributor Ne-signal
03 Distributor G-signal
08 Airflow Sensor
09 Coolant temp. sensor
10 Intake air temp. sensor
12 Throttle position sensor
14 Barometric pressure sensor
15 O2 sensor
17 O2 sensor has detected a rich or lean condition
25 Solenoid valve (fuel pressure regulator)
26 Solenoid valve (purge control)
34 IAC valve
41 Solenoid valve (VICS)
To delete the codes, just disconnect your battery for about a min or so and you should be good. If it seems to be running rough like alot of cam, make sure there's no leaks in your intake tube and you can advance or retard the idle with the distributor, clockwise is advance, counter clockwise to retard I believe. There is an idle adjust screw on top of the throttlebody, possibly under a small rubber plug to fine tune the idle and 750-1000rpm is a good idle for the B6. Just test the throttle response, there should be a slight bog at first, but it should be good after that, too retarded will bog like crazy and probably misfire. Oh, the cooling system holds roughly a gallon and a half I believe and a 50-50 mix should be good.

wow thx a lot of good info. i'll try and sort it out when i get off work.

i was thinking that the 'Cam' sounding problem was a fouled injector; the only other thing i thought it could be was the plug wires, which i changed. the 'intake' on this this seems like the downfall.....first, i dont think it's at the right angle. right off the throttle body, there's an intake pipe that connects to what i assume is the MAF (this big blocky thing that looks like a waffle on the bottom), then directly to a cone. there is only one vaccum hose but there's another opening on the intake pipe that is not connecting to anything. but that's just the thing; after i tore it all down, i dont know if the problem's in the manifold, in the intake, or in the valve cover areas.....kinda pisses me off now that i've torn it all down and put it back together that i have a CEL....dammit!

[umcamara]

If there's an opening on the intake hose that's not connected to anything that would be a vacuum leak.

[Redline322]

The extra opening in the intake piping could very well be causing the problem. There is supposed to be 2 hoses coming from off the intake, one for the valve cover and one to the idle air control (iac). The iac is just under the throttlebody and uses something like 3/8" hose I believe. The maf is actually a vaf, if you took the cone off the front, you'd see a small door that moves with vacuum through the intake as there is demand for air from the engine, if there's no vacuum, it wont move and the car will stall out. This should sit relatively level so that there is no additional forces for the door to fight against like gravity. The first thing I'd do is hook up the iac unless it is bypassed, then just plug the hole on the intake. If it is still running rough, play with the distributor a bit to adjust the ignition timing, it's just like on an old v8, but sideways. If the CEL still throws a code after that, find out what it is and let us know and we can help you from there.

[beefmobile]

The extra opening in the intake piping could very well be causing the problem. There is supposed to be 2 hoses coming from off the intake, one for the valve cover and one to the idle air control (iac). The iac is just under the throttlebody and uses something like 3/8" hose I believe. The maf is actually a vaf, if you took the cone off the front, you'd see a small door that moves with vacuum through the intake as there is demand for air from the engine, if there's no vacuum, it wont move and the car will stall out. This should sit relatively level so that there is no additional forces for the door to fight against like gravity. The first thing I'd do is hook up the iac unless it is bypassed, then just plug the hole on the intake. If it is still running rough, play with the distributor a bit to adjust the ignition timing, it's just like on an old v8, but sideways. If the CEL still throws a code after that, find out what it is and let us know and we can help you from there.

there is a breather atop the valve cover, which is where i assume the other line from the intake is supposed to go.

is there somewhere i can get a new intake setup? very very cheap if i may add lol.....this thing is horribly rigged up...

[beefmobile]

also, the motor is knocking when it has the rought idle, which also led me to believe that there is an injector issue.

[Redline322]

There must be a junkyard nearby where you live, any intake tube off of a 90-94 protege or 323 will work and they'll usually only cost like $5-10. Just run some fuel injection cleaner through and see if it gets any better, chances are if it was sitting for very long, the injectors are gummed up and gas might have gone bad. Are you sure that the plug wires are on the right order and that ignition timing is right? The knock could be your lifters as well.

[beefmobile]

There must be a junkyard nearby where you live, any intake tube off of a 90-94 protege or 323 will work and they'll usually only cost like $5-10. Just run some fuel injection cleaner through and see if it gets any better, chances are if it was sitting for very long, the injectors are gummed up and gas might have gone bad. Are you sure that the plug wires are on the right order and that ignition timing is right? The knock could be your lifters as well.

how do i find out?

[umcamara]

ONLINE MANUAL...

SEARCH BUTTON...

[beefmobile]

^^damn son

all that link gave me was a collision replacement parts manual and an electrical layout......?

[umcamara]

Son? Okay... It's a lot more than that if you'd take the time to look.

[beefmobile]

ONLINE MANUAL...

SEARCH BUTTON...

if everyone had that mindset, the forums would die.

and i wasnt literally calling you my son, man, it is a slang saying........at least where im from

[Redline322]

Starting from the top, firing order should be 1342, I think no.1 is marked on the distributor. If you look at your distributor, there is 2 mounting bolts on adjustable brackets, it should be sitting roughly midway in the brackets. Back off the bolts slightly and turn the distributor a bit and see if the idle gets any better or worse. To find out if it is a lifter or isolate the knock in general, take a small piece of hose, hold it to your ear and go along the valve cover and injectors.