cv joint clunking
cv joint clunking
is that cv joint/ axle expensive to repair
Re: cv joint clunking
with some basic tools, (breaker bar, ?32mil? socket, and some basic 14 mil socket and racthet, and some pry bars) most of the time it is getting the damn out of the transmission is the hard part. once it is pulled, just put the new one in and put back together.
for cost, i think it is like $175 for a rebuilt from partsource and take the old one back for the core of $75. also they give a lifetime warranty, so just kee[p your receipt.
I would rate this job as easy, but sometimes it takes longer if it is hard to get out.
for cost, i think it is like $175 for a rebuilt from partsource and take the old one back for the core of $75. also they give a lifetime warranty, so just kee[p your receipt.
I would rate this job as easy, but sometimes it takes longer if it is hard to get out.
Jesse<BR>red 92 gs
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Re: cv joint clunking
its pretty easy, the hard part will be if you have really old stubborn ball joints or tie rods. with all new steering components and using the hoist at work it took me 20 minutes to do replace it. if you do this at home make sure you have some 20w50 gear oil as you might loose some when you take the axle out. you really have to yank on it in the same way you yank on your knob (dont deny it) it will pop and come right out. same thing for when it goes back into the transmisson. when its all said and done and you put it all back together, make sure you get a flat head and a hammer and smack in lip of that big axle bolt bolt to prevent it from coming loose.
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Re: cv joint clunking
There is no need to remove the tie rod end or ball joint! This can be removed with just turning the spindle to the side! I replaced my Passenger one 3 times in the past 3 months ahaha I can do it in 15 min including jacking the car up!
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Re: cv joint clunking
Colins right, just push everything to the side and pull the axle out. Its really easy. Also if you got a small crowbar it'll make things alot easier.
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Re: cv joint clunking
I wouldn't recommend yanking on it. The correct way to remove it is to use a crowbar/prybar or something similar with a wedge end. Hammer it in between the axle and transmission to separate them, and the axle will pop out. If the c-clip on the end of the axle that holds it inside the transmission is bad and has expanded, then you could have some difficulty getting it out, but that's not very common. Don't need to remove ball joints or tie-rod ends. Just unbolt the strut from the spindle, unclip the brake line from the strut, and pull the assembly away as you push the axle end out of it. Helps if you have a rubber mullet, in case it's a bit stuck.
Best of luck getting those axle nuts off. They're torqued like a mofo.
Best of luck getting those axle nuts off. They're torqued like a mofo.
Last edited by Whisper on September 17th, 2008, 12:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: cv joint clunking
I don't know about you guys.... but I definitely wouldn't want to "yank my knob" in such a way that could pull a stubborn CV joint out of a transmission.projectzemx3 wrote:its pretty easy, the hard part will be if you have really old stubborn ball joints or tie rods. with all new steering components and using the hoist at work it took me 20 minutes to do replace it. if you do this at home make sure you have some 20w50 gear oil as you might loose some when you take the axle out. you really have to yank on it in the same way you yank on your knob (dont deny it) it will pop and come right out. same thing for when it goes back into the transmisson. when its all said and done and you put it all back together, make sure you get a flat head and a hammer and smack in lip of that big axle bolt bolt to prevent it from coming loose.
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