KYB installation help

[mazdags94]

After installing the rear struts (kyb's w/ intrax springs) I notice that when i push down on the rear I hear a slight knock. The bolt on the top of the strut is tightened but I was wondering if I tightened it more, if it would fix the knock. It almost sounds like theres a gap somewhere so thats why im suspicious of the nut on the top. The circular plate moves when I try to tighten it and it is a b**** to get it to stop moving and tighten the nut. Any ideas?

[Mooneggs]

I used a big pair of pliers/vicegrips to hold that piece... also did you replace the bumpstops, etc?

[mazdags94]

I replaced the upper strut mounts as they were so rusty, they flaked apart like overbaked cookies. The boots I didnt bc there werent any weak spots or significant wear on them. Plus, they are 17 each at my nearest auto shop!

[94mx3precidia]

use an impact to tighten them down. i had clunking in the front going over quick bumps and i tigghtened the strut bolts some more and i worked. the clunking could also be that the strut is expanding more than your spring and when the rear end comes down the top of the strut hits the spring. is ur back end lowered?

[mazdags94]

It was noted specifically NOT to use an impact wrench so I did not. The back is lowered (KYB's and Intrax springs) but I do have more room to tighten the bolt, which is what I think it is at this point. Also, is it really necessary to get an alignment after doing all this? I am assuming yes but if I can get around not doing it, it would save money. Whatever is best for the car

[94mx3precidia]

wow i didnt know u couldnt use an impact on them. not that i did, i managed to tighten them down to spects with a 1/2 in torque wrench. but ya i dont think its really nessasary to get an allignment done. all i did was measure the old struts mounts to the new ones. i would mark where the spring sat exactly and put the strut assembly together in the exact same manner. of corse it is impossible to get it to the same exact position as befre but i did a good damn job at it. i did all 4 of mine and my car drives perfectly straight, given the road condition.

[mazdags94]

wouldnt you need to tighten the struts down a bit more if you're installing lowering springs? I dont want the spring to seperate from the seat and hear a clunk as you mentioned when the strut compresses

[wytbishop]

The spring is what holds the weight of the car not the strut. The strut merely controls the action of the spring. If the springs are short the car will sit lower and the strut will not expand fully. That's how the car is lowered. You would notice it though when you lift the car. The wheels will fall down and the springs will no longer be in contact with the upper mounts.

As far as alignment goes...if your tire was flat on the ground with the stock suspension...and you shorten the suspension by 2 inches...the camber will become slightly negative and there will be more contact on the inner portion of the tread and less on the outside portion of the tread. If it's minor, it can be adjusted, but if you lower alot, camber bolts or camber plates will be required to revent uneven tire wear.

Wikipedia-
"In cars with double wishbone suspensions, camber angle was usually adjustable, but in newer with McPherson strut suspensions, it is normally fixed. While this may reduce maintenance requirements, if the car is lowered by use of shortened springs, this changes the camber angle (as described in McPherson strut) and can lead to increased tire wear and impaired handling. For this reason, individuals who are serious about modifying their car for better handling will not only lower the body, but also modify the mounting point of the top of the struts to the body to allow some fore/aft movement for camber adjustment. Aftermarket plates with slots for strut mounts instead of just holes are available for most of the commonly modified models of cars."

[mazdags94]

got it, thanks