Best place in Ontario for K8 rebuild

[Whisper]

So if i get my hands on one i need nothin except mounts? What about tranny?

Well, not tranny, but a lot of other stuff. People say "Just drop in a ZE". In reality it's not as simple as that. If you're putting in a ZE, you don't want to just drop it in - you want it to make optimal power, and you want it to last.

ZE needs more breathing room to be effective, so for breathing out you'll have to hunt down some racing headers, possibly ceramic-coat them, which ain't cheap if you want quality (which you do want, trust me). High flow cat and 2.5" catback with a good muffler will also makes sense. And for breathing in you'll want to make a CAI. CAI will probably be the cheapest mod in the whole thing, if you go the Integra route. Although good air filters aren't cheap.

You'll also want to swap in DE valve retainers and in the process you'll end up getting new valve springs as well (from Interprep most likely). ZE retainers are weak. Maybe it'll drop a valve, maybe it won't, you don't want to take that chance.

You'll also have to hunt down a curved neck intake manifold from a Millenia and a KL47 or KL68 throttle body. You could try the straight neck, it's been done, but it's pain in the a-- and there's not a lot of room for the engine that way.

You'll also want stiffer engine mounts. You can either fill your existing ones or get some from Mazdaspeed.

Then you'll want a better clutch to handle all that power - Stage 2 or above. Possibly a performance flywheel.

You might want to get new axles also.

Add to that miscellaneous parts for doing water pump, timing belt, various sensors that might be in need or replacement, bolts, gasket sets, spark plugs, wires, and such.

Finally you'll want a proper ECU and/or VAF. You can use your K8 ECU with the JE50 VAF you got, but it'll run super rich and won't be that great. There are many options there, but they all still cost money.

This is just off the top of my head, I'm sure there's more.

So no, if you want the swap done right, it's not just a matter of dropping in the engine, and it'll cost you time and money. If you're not gonna do any of that, I'd say just keep your K8. It's a good motor. People say it's slow - it's not. I've driven it around the track, and it packs a decent punch.

[mx3autozam]

So if i get my hands on one i need nothin except mounts? What about tranny?

Well, not tranny, but a lot of other stuff. People say "Just drop in a ZE". In reality it's not as simple as that. If you're putting in a ZE, you don't want to just drop it in - you want it to make optimal power, and you want it to last.

ZE needs more breathing room to be effective, so for breathing out you'll have to hunt down some racing headers, possibly ceramic-coat them, which ain't cheap if you want quality (which you do want, trust me). High flow cat and 2.5" catback with a good muffler will also makes sense. And for breathing in you'll want to make a CAI. CAI will probably be the cheapest mod in the whole thing, if you go the Integra route. Although good air filters aren't cheap.

You'll also want to swap in DE valve retainers and in the process you'll end up getting new valve springs as well (from Interprep most likely). ZE retainers are weak. Maybe it'll drop a valve, maybe it won't, you don't want to take that chance.

You'll also have to hunt down a curved neck intake manifold from a Millenia and a KL47 or KL68 throttle body. You could try the straight neck, it's been done, but it's pain in the a-- and there's not a lot of room for the engine that way.

You'll also want stiffer engine mounts. You can either fill your existing ones or get some from Mazdaspeed.

Then you'll want a better clutch to handle all that power - Stage 2 or above. Possibly a performance flywheel.

You might want to get new axles also.

Add to that miscellaneous parts for doing water pump, timing belt, various sensors that might be in need or replacement, bolts, gasket sets, spark plugs, wires, and such.

Finally you'll want a proper ECU and/or VAF. You can use your K8 ECU with the JE50 VAF you got, but it'll run super rich and won't be that great. There are many options there, but they all still cost money.

This is just off the top of my head, I'm sure there's more.

So no, if you want the swap done right, it's not just a matter of dropping in the engine, and it'll cost you time and money. If you're not gonna do any of that, I'd say just keep your K8. It's a good motor. People say it's slow - it's not. I've driven it around the track, and it packs a decent punch.

You don't need all that s---. Right now you will probibly confuse him. Motor will run perfectly fine on stock exhaust and intake. Just do the swap for now and then mod things later.

[Juans_93_MX3]

u can use many many combos but yes u can leave ur stock k8 ecu in the car and switch out the VAF to a kl-02 from a ford probe,mx6,626 just an in my opinion ive tried all ecu available and im most happy with the K8 ECU and DE VAF the high end power is just nicer i find.. alsso the DE ECU with DE VAF is my 2nd fav even on a ZE

Are you having trouble passing emissions with that combo?

[Whisper]

You don't need all that s---. Right now you will probibly confuse him. Motor will run perfectly fine on stock exhaust and intake. Just do the swap for now and then mod things later.

You're right, it's not mandatory. But then again, a ZE swap isn't mandatory either, but if you're gonna do it, you might as well do it right and get the most of it.

You can mod later on, but a lot of the stuff would be easier to do while the engine is out of the car. And in the very least I'd do the valve retainers and clutch. He'll probably end up doing all that stuff I listed anyway, but it'd be much less trouble to do it all at once.

[fieromx3]

u can use many many combos but yes u can leave ur stock k8 ecu in the car and switch out the VAF to a kl-02 from a ford probe,mx6,626 just an in my opinion ive tried all ecu available and im most happy with the K8 ECU and DE VAF the high end power is just nicer i find.. alsso the DE ECU with DE VAF is my 2nd fav even on a ZE

Are you having trouble passing emissions with that combo?

well i never e tested my ze but my DE i used the K8 ecu and DE vaf with the EGR not functioning and passed with flynf colors EASILY

[Nd4SpdSe]

Well, not tranny, but a lot of other stuff. People say "Just drop in a ZE". In reality it's not as simple as that.

It is as simple as that...doing anthing more is optional no matter on how you look at it

ZE needs more breathing room to be effective, so for breathing out you'll have to hunt down some racing headers, possibly ceramic-coat them, which ain't cheap if you want quality (which you do want, trust me). High flow cat and 2.5" catback with a good muffler will also makes sense. And for breathing in you'll want to make a CAI. CAI will probably be the cheapest mod in the whole thing, if you go the Integra route. Although good air filters aren't cheap.

Headers are a bolt-on mod, there's no need to do this while doing the engine swap, it's not any extra work. I did a 2.5" exhaust after a few months of my ZE swap, mostly because my stock system rusted out after the cat. I did the headers the following year. CAI, lol, like that's hard, I did mine over a year after my swap. You get a curved neck DE or ZE and you can use the stock system. Sure, you'll get more power with any of those mods, but even with just a ZE swap, it's night-and-day compared to a K8, the rest can wait if you have to.

You'll also want to swap in DE valve retainers and in the process you'll end up getting new valve springs as well (from Interprep most likely). ZE retainers are weak. Maybe it'll drop a valve, maybe it won't, you don't want to take that chance.

Dude, how often do you hear about people breaking retainers? Almost never. Your talking like it happens almost all the time. Sure, the odds are better for it to happen on a ZE than a DE, but if you get a healthy engine and dont be stupid and overrev the motor (constantly), it something that shouldn't happen on either if you take care of your motor.

You'll also have to hunt down a curved neck intake manifold from a Millenia and a KL47 or KL68 throttle body. You could try the straight neck, it's been done, but it's pain in the a-- and there's not a lot of room for the engine that way.

You'll also want stiffer engine mounts. You can either fill your existing ones or get some from Mazdaspeed.

Then you'll want a better clutch to handle all that power - Stage 2 or above. Possibly a performance flywheel.

You might want to get new axles also.

I agree with the curved neck, not worth the pain of a straight neck. They said the curved neck flows better, but the problem is that you can't get an ECU for proper VRIS points unless you get one that's chipped for it.

You don't need stiffer mounts, most people don't. MS mounts are pricey, but you can fill stock mounts for $30 with 80A if you want to. I just polyfilled a new set of MS mounts, can't wait to see how those are.

Clutch, ya. The OEM one wont handle the power, even if it's new. Stage 2 isn't needed. A stage 1 from a reputable manufacturer is more than sufficient, but also depends on how you drive or want to drive it.

Axles, not needed really. I have 2 remans, was was done before my ZE swap, the one at cause the CV joint was clicking. I just replaced the pre-ze axle this spring, so over 3 years of use and abuse. Axles would be easier with the motor and trans out, but honestly, no one does

Add to that miscellaneous parts for doing water pump, timing belt, various sensors that might be in need or replacement, bolts, gasket sets, spark plugs, wires, and such.

Agreed. Those are hard to do parts that's well worth to do while the motor's out.

So no, if you want the swap done right, it's not just a matter of dropping in the engine, and it'll cost you time and money. If you're not gonna do any of that, I'd say just keep your K8.

Most people aren't made of money, doing ALL of that and your swap cost will be tripple of average, and most aren't neccessary...it's easy to spend other people's money tho. Some aren't necessary, other's can definitely wait until later

You don't need all that s---. Right now you will probibly confuse him. Motor will run perfectly fine on stock exhaust and intake. Just do the swap for now and then mod things later.

QTF. Swap in the motor, enjoy the major increase, worry about bolt-ons later. She'll kick you back in your seat and put a smile on your face anyway without them.

Dont they come from like late 80's mx'6's? Ha, thats probably way off right?

Ya, those are the F2 and F2T. These motors started out in 92-93

You don't need all that s---. Right now you will probibly confuse him. Motor will run perfectly fine on stock exhaust and intake. Just do the swap for now and then mod things later.

You're right, it's not mandatory. But then again, a ZE swap isn't mandatory either, but if you're gonna do it, you might as well do it right and get the most of it.

You can mod later on, but a lot of the stuff would be easier to do while the engine is out of the car. And in the very least I'd do the valve retainers and clutch. He'll probably end up doing all that stuff I listed anyway, but it'd be much less trouble to do it all at once.

Why not port and polish the heads then? Balance the crank, put in better cams, performance valve springs, how about overbored valves. Then why not put in forged rods and overbored pistons, intake spacers, get the TB bored out....the list goes on and on. There's what's needed, suggested and overkill, your list is overkill.

and for electronics just use the k8 ecu and DE vaf AND DO NOT TELL ME U LOSE ALOT OF POWER FROM THAT ive tried 31, 36, DE and probinator and they all sucked balls my fav is k8 ecu and DE VAF the high end power is just so nice

Not every combo works well for everyone. Although that combo works well for you, just to note that your experience contradicts most.

[fieromx3]

im not the only one who agrees with that combo

[mx3autozam]

im not the only one who agrees with that combo

i'll second that. Before My first ZE blew up. i was running this setup and it HAULED a--...Top end was wicked

[hgallegos915]

My ze was justdrop in at first.

[Repo]

It definatly helps to have more than 1 opinion. Im gonna start counting the dollars and go for a straight swap with curved neck which i hope is not hard to find. Maybe replace the head gasket because that s--- will always make me nervous. I quess if its straight up i can get any shop to drop it in. I simply dont have the space to do it. And would probably be lost anyway right? My father in law is a toyota mechanic who's helped me alot with tune up. Think he could pull it off?