lowered mx-3 strong shudder on hard turns

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Mooneggs
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Post by Mooneggs »

I've gotten a shorter axle by accident before for the drivers side and it lasted 24 days :cry: the giveaway was the size of the axel nut - it was 1 1/8 inch instead of 1 1/4 inch. I'm not sure what car it was for but it didn't last long in the mx-3!!
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Philthy
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Post by Philthy »

How is your shudder?
92 MX-3 GS, KL-ZE, OBX headers, 2-1/2" exhaust, XL Performance muffler, AASCO Aluminum flywheel,Pheno spacers,APEXi Airflow computer,Eibach springs,Tockico struts, Toyo RA1 205/50ZR15s, B&M short shifter. MS control arm Bushings, SS clutch line, SS brake hoses
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Mooneggs
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Post by Mooneggs »

I think it's gone now since I replaced the wheel bearing and tie rod end... I have a new ball joint I need to put in but I didn't have the ball joint remover tool... I'm just lazy :roll:

I need to have the alignment done since the toe and steering wheel are a little off after replacing all that stuff but the shudder is gone - pretty sure it was the wheel bearing
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Philthy
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Post by Philthy »

14 MM, 17MM sockets and a prybar is all you need to change out the ball joint, actually a extra long 17MM wrench works well for the topside nut on tha a-arm.
92 MX-3 GS, KL-ZE, OBX headers, 2-1/2" exhaust, XL Performance muffler, AASCO Aluminum flywheel,Pheno spacers,APEXi Airflow computer,Eibach springs,Tockico struts, Toyo RA1 205/50ZR15s, B&M short shifter. MS control arm Bushings, SS clutch line, SS brake hoses
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Mooneggs
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Post by Mooneggs »

It was frozen... I tried everything... liquid wrench, pb blaster, all the torque I could muster... I just looked it up and I can rent the tool...
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Philthy
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Post by Philthy »

Did you spread the clamp at the knuckle? A fat chisel works well. also use a hammer and strike the base of the ball joint or the knuckle. Sometimes light raps will free it. You can use that tool, but if you have to go rent it thats a hassle. Iv'e been wrenching a long time and have never seen a mechanic use one. We always free them up with raps from a hammer. Ask a couple front end guys. If you strike the knuckle try light raps, you don't want to flatten the cast. Also you should be loading the a arm downward with a long pry bar 3-4'. If you can't get a good bite w/ the pry bar wrap a chain in a circle ( secured together with a bolt) around it hanging down about 2 inches then put the prybar through and pull down.
92 MX-3 GS, KL-ZE, OBX headers, 2-1/2" exhaust, XL Performance muffler, AASCO Aluminum flywheel,Pheno spacers,APEXi Airflow computer,Eibach springs,Tockico struts, Toyo RA1 205/50ZR15s, B&M short shifter. MS control arm Bushings, SS clutch line, SS brake hoses
bdr2k5
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Post by bdr2k5 »

i kinda got the same prob, only that after i lowered my car it makes a a knocking sound when driving on bumpy roads or if i hit a pothole, ive check everything and still cant figure out, kinda feels like its coming from the upper spring seat and strut mount
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Mooneggs
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Post by Mooneggs »

the main problem is the bolt at the clamp... i'm sure I could get the ball joint out but I can't get that bolt out - it's stuck... :cry:
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