Ok, i did a search and of course the site found no topics for rear calipers.
SO, what i need to know is i am doing a brake job on my car and of course the rears are giving me a headache. I would say the piston is seized cause i can't get it to go back, but when i push the brakes the wheel stops, i let go and the wheel releases, which makes me second guess the seized part, so what i am wondering is, How does the ebrake work?????
when i pul the ebrake, does it push the piston in or something... I am wondering if the ebrake although release, is interfearing with me getting the piston to go back in..
Help would be greatly appreciated as my car is in bits in the driveway and i have to work tonight.
Thanks
Brian
REAR BRAKES (calipers) ??
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cyclonekid78
- Regular Member
- Posts: 287
- Joined: April 19th, 2006, 8:28 pm
- Location: Auburn AL
They screw in, cant use a C-clamp on them.
93 RS BPTurbo
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2628805" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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umcamara
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There are about 320 topics on rear calipers. You may be using the search feature wrong. I did this too when I first began using it.
If you select the bullet "search for all terms" you still need to type the search into the top box. The bottom box applies to "search for author".
When I first began using the search I thought that if you selected the bottom bullet, then you typed in the bottom box. I always got the no topics found message.
It's quite possible that you're doing the same.
Sorry, I don't know much about the rear calipers though. Good luck
If you select the bullet "search for all terms" you still need to type the search into the top box. The bottom box applies to "search for author".
When I first began using the search I thought that if you selected the bottom bullet, then you typed in the bottom box. I always got the no topics found message.
It's quite possible that you're doing the same.
Sorry, I don't know much about the rear calipers though. Good luck
well i'm sure i'm not the first to say we have a very un-user friendly search button.
Anyways, with out the proper tool to turn and push that piston back in, i am stuck with the rusty rears for now.
But can someone tell me how the ebrake works in the back.. this is the first car i have owned with rear rotors. ( I totally prefer drums)
Anyways, with out the proper tool to turn and push that piston back in, i am stuck with the rusty rears for now.
But can someone tell me how the ebrake works in the back.. this is the first car i have owned with rear rotors. ( I totally prefer drums)
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PATDIESEL
- Senior Member
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Drums stink, you want and will learn to love rear calipers. 
To get the rear piston to retract just turn it with a pair of pliers. You don't need any special tools. If they are rusted you should consider replacing them as the rust will cause friction between the caliper and the piston which will cause the piston to stick out or in, either is bad. You do not need to push on the piston while turning it, but I've found that it does help to push on it some. I hope that you found that the bottom caliepr bolt is acutally not a bolt, but a hinge. The top bolt is taken out and then you rotate the caliper away from the rotor using the bottom bolt as a hinge. No need to loosen the bottom bolt as it should be free enough to turn when the top bolt is removed. Sometimes I have to get the rotation started by prying the caliper with a long screw driver, but after that it moves freely. If you want to remove the rear caliper you rotate it down until it is at the end of its range and the push it tword the opposite side of the car. It will slide off the hinge. If you need any other info about the rear brakes feel free to PM me.
To get the rear piston to retract just turn it with a pair of pliers. You don't need any special tools. If they are rusted you should consider replacing them as the rust will cause friction between the caliper and the piston which will cause the piston to stick out or in, either is bad. You do not need to push on the piston while turning it, but I've found that it does help to push on it some. I hope that you found that the bottom caliepr bolt is acutally not a bolt, but a hinge. The top bolt is taken out and then you rotate the caliper away from the rotor using the bottom bolt as a hinge. No need to loosen the bottom bolt as it should be free enough to turn when the top bolt is removed. Sometimes I have to get the rotation started by prying the caliper with a long screw driver, but after that it moves freely. If you want to remove the rear caliper you rotate it down until it is at the end of its range and the push it tword the opposite side of the car. It will slide off the hinge. If you need any other info about the rear brakes feel free to PM me.
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
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tehbrookzorz
- Regular Member
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- Joined: April 29th, 2006, 6:59 pm
- Location: Calgary, Alberta
Stupid question and sorry to thread-jack but how do I adjust the e-brake on rear calipers? One side grabs much sooner than the other. Is this related to the piston's rotational position in the caliper? Does one side have to be screwed out more so that they grab at the same time or is there an alternate adjustment to make?
Cody
ok, so, now.. when you turn the piston, it should go back in?
I was able to turn the piston just to see if i could and it i turned it about 1 and a half turns and it didn't go in, so i do have to push in right?
just making sure its not seized. If i can turn it, i assume its not considered seized?
thanks
Brian
I was able to turn the piston just to see if i could and it i turned it about 1 and a half turns and it didn't go in, so i do have to push in right?
just making sure its not seized. If i can turn it, i assume its not considered seized?
thanks
Brian
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PATDIESEL
- Senior Member
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It takes a good number of rotations for it to sink all the way. Keep turning, it will go in. Like I said before, I don't think you have to push, but I still do b/c it makes me feel better, lol.
As for adjusting the e-brake. There must be something wrong with your pads or your calipers. The e-brake cable attaches in a Y configuration from the calipers to the handle in the car. One cable attaches to the handle inside the car, then connects at a lever just under the car to the two cables that go to the calipers. The only adjustment on the cables is at the handle where you'll find a nut that holds the threaded end of the single cable to the handle. If you are getting one brake engaging sooner than the other then you probably have one brake pad that is more worn than the other. This is usually caused by one of the calipers starting to seize. I would suggest looking at the pads and making sure they are not worn unevenly from one side to the other. If so you should replace them or rebuild them and bleed the brake fluid. Also, make sure your brake lines are not cracking or looking pretty old. If one of the lines is messed up or leaking this couls also cause uneven pad wear.
As for adjusting the e-brake. There must be something wrong with your pads or your calipers. The e-brake cable attaches in a Y configuration from the calipers to the handle in the car. One cable attaches to the handle inside the car, then connects at a lever just under the car to the two cables that go to the calipers. The only adjustment on the cables is at the handle where you'll find a nut that holds the threaded end of the single cable to the handle. If you are getting one brake engaging sooner than the other then you probably have one brake pad that is more worn than the other. This is usually caused by one of the calipers starting to seize. I would suggest looking at the pads and making sure they are not worn unevenly from one side to the other. If so you should replace them or rebuild them and bleed the brake fluid. Also, make sure your brake lines are not cracking or looking pretty old. If one of the lines is messed up or leaking this couls also cause uneven pad wear.
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
another thing to look for in uneven ebraking is the 1 into 2 splitter.. On my mx6, i had it start to really rust up and it locked the drivers side rear wheel a lot more then the passenger side.
And once again, thanks Pat for the info.. So it looks like i don't need no tool then which sucks, cause i had it all apart, and was able to turn it but wasn't sure about it... all well..
will be done today hopefully.
Brian
And once again, thanks Pat for the info.. So it looks like i don't need no tool then which sucks, cause i had it all apart, and was able to turn it but wasn't sure about it... all well..
will be done today hopefully.
Brian
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tehbrookzorz
- Regular Member
- Posts: 1561
- Joined: April 29th, 2006, 6:59 pm
- Location: Calgary, Alberta
well, seeing that you replaced everything there, the cable would be my next step.. Cables to stretch.tehbrookzorz wrote:Ah. I had installed brand new calipers with brand new pads and brand new rotors, so it must be something to do with the cables, cause adjusting the bolt at the ebrake had only caused the left side to lock up sooner.
BTW, my brakes are all completely done and everything is working great. Thanks for everyones help. After doing the brakes, i went to certify it and it needed absolutely nothing.
FYI, it takes me about 6 clicks to have my ebrake fully engaged both sides.