My car still misfire after HEI and Blaster coil mod

buttyao · Post by **buttyao** » April 14th, 2007, 4:20 am

Hi,

I have a 93 Eunos 30x K8-1.8 in Australia, I followed the HEI mod instruction last year and my car worked well for around 6 months. However, it started to misfire this year, so I am so frustrated and replaced the HEI ignitor and done the coil mod as well. After the mods I am even frustrated that the car still misfire randomly and won't start sometimes... I just found no spark from the new coil when the car broke down and the G pin's votage is around 0.5 at that time, the votage is around 0.8 when the car is running normally

The 3-pin connector to the distributor is pulled off and all the wiring are exactly the same to the HEI mod FAQ. The ecu trigger wire to the internal module is cut off as well. And I cut off the long electrode stick on the distributor cap (to the internal coil). Although I did not remove the stock coil, but basically the stock module and coil are disabled properly, isn't it?

Am I missing something or some else is causing the trouble? Could you PLEASE give me some idea or advise what should I do next?

BTW, I don't have a OBD-II code reader, can I still read some codes from the car?

Cheers
Butt

Rick Johnson · Post by **Rick Johnson** » April 15th, 2007, 11:49 am

Your g-signal sensor in the distributer could be failing.

buttyao · Post by **buttyao** » April 16th, 2007, 3:39 am

Your g-signal sensor in the distributer could be failing.

opps, so is there any other way to fix it besides changing the distributor?

hgallegos915 · Post by **hgallegos915** » April 16th, 2007, 3:51 am

did you disable it?? you need to disable the old module.

buttyao · Post by **buttyao** » April 16th, 2007, 6:07 am

did you disable it?? you need to disable the old module.

I cut off the "G" wire to the dissy, so basically, the ECU is triggering the HEI module only. However, I did not remove the internal coil from the dissyI just totally disconnect the 3 pin connector from the dissy, do the wiring to the external coil, cut off the post to the old coil on the dissy cap. In a way... the internal coil is disabled, isn't it?

MX3ak · Post by **MX3ak** » April 16th, 2007, 5:25 pm

Maybe the coil is faulty, or even the disty's cap has something wrong...
How do you get te coil firing the disty, do you made your self the 7th nipple?

By the way, to get the codes, and since your car is 93's, there´s no ODBII, but one kind of ALDL. Anyway all you need to get the codes is: locate the diag connector (top right in engine bay), and... http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=48216

buttyao · Post by **buttyao** » April 16th, 2007, 11:15 pm

Thanks,

The wiring should be no problem. the cap, rotor, module and the coil are all new. I read the code is "03". When the car misfire or won't start the G pin's votage is 0.4 only, and no spark from the coil.

I let the car rest for some time, the car would start again... The car start alright in the morning(when the car is absolutely cold).

ariesdude · Post by **ariesdude** » April 16th, 2007, 11:42 pm

Check your crank angle sensor too.

buttyao · Post by **buttyao** » April 17th, 2007, 9:59 am

Check your crank angle sensor too

You mean the cranshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor in the dissy? If one of the sensors is faulty, I need to replace the whole dissy?

If the sensor is blown, why sometimes the car is alright sometimes not? I found sometimes I can happened to restart the cut off car after I knocked at the dissy, weird. It took me more than one hour to restart the car in the carpark after shopping(only 10 mins drive from home, started from cold)

ariesdude · Post by **ariesdude** » April 17th, 2007, 4:03 pm

buttyao wrote:
Check your crank angle sensor too
You mean the cranshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor in the dissy? If one of the sensors is faulty, I need to replace the whole dissy?

If the sensor is blown, why sometimes the car is alright sometimes not? I found sometimes I can happened to restart the cut off car after I knocked at the dissy, weird. It took me more than one hour to restart the car in the carpark after shopping(only 10 mins drive from home, started from cold)

The crank angle sensor - not the cam angle sensor in the disty. Lots of people have had problems with it too and had the disty code for some reason. Just another option to eliminate....

Mnemonic · Post by **Mnemonic** » April 17th, 2007, 5:50 pm

if your spark plugs have been fowled (caused by running rich) it would cause your car to backfire and possibly not start. Also check your timing, it might be off from when you removed the disty. (my timing on my klze was off when i 1st installed the motor, it caused me to run alot richer, and caused me to backfire and have problems with the car cranking due to the fact the sparkplugs needed to be replaced).

I have ran a disty with a bad sensor in it, the car will not run as well, but it will still run, though to be honest i didnt see any problems with it backfiring or anything like that with the sensor being bad, just noticed a serious lack of gas miledge. You can also try to run your car in limp mode, limp mode is the basic "default" settings in your ecu for the engine to run. I did that while i was using the bad disty.

buttyao · Post by **buttyao** » April 18th, 2007, 5:10 am

The crank angle sensor - not the cam angle sensor in the disty. Lots of people have had problems with it too and had the disty code for some reason. Just another option to eliminate....

Is it hard to reach? If it is bad, is there any equivelant I can use to replace it, since it might be hard to find the exact part in Australia.

buttyao · Post by **buttyao** » April 18th, 2007, 5:15 am

Hi Mnemonic,

My timing does need some adjustment, it should be off since the car pings when it is hot.

But when my car is down, I actually found not spark from my new ignition coil. It seems the signal from the ECU was not correctly triggering the module to ignite. Once I got the spark from the coil after the car rest for a while, it started right up. Do you still think timing is the problem to cause my car the misfire?

BTW, how to run in the limp mod? thanks.

Mnemonic · Post by **Mnemonic** » April 18th, 2007, 1:43 pm

Your timing should always be set correctly according to mazda guidelines this will insure your motor is running properly, unless you are doing some type of n2o or boost, your timing should be set 10 degrees from top dead center. You should try fixing this 1st.

Personally I have had mine set to 14 degrees and the car ran great, but Patdiesel who is using corksport programmed k8 ecu has also changed his timing to 14 degrees and said his car seemed to run alot worse (difference in ECU probably i use a kl36 he uses a k8 modded)

Ok i'm not 100% sure how to put an OBDII into Diagnostic mode (limp mode) but you open the diagnostic box, (located behind the battery on the firewall). Then with wire or a paper clip (Patdiesel showed me to use Coaxial Cable which works really well), and jump Pins Ten and Ground. From there your car is in Diagnostic mode "limp mode" the difference really between the two Diagnostic and Limp is basically when your just checking the CEL codes, your in Diagnostic mode. If you leave the pin in and actually run the car, it will be in Limp mode, which means its just using the default settings that the motor needs in order to run.

Hope that helps, i would deffinetly go ahead and adjust the timing, a timing gun runs about US$20-50 depending on how nice of one you get.

To adjust timing, its simple, with the car off remove the bolts that attach the Disty to the head. Put the car into Diagnostic mode, and crank the car. From there go ahead and hook up the timing gun according to the instructions setup (different guns read from different cyl/plug wires). Usually easier with 2 people but take the gun and aim it at the crank pulley, on the pulley is a little white mark (it may have dissapeared with time the mark is still there, if you dont see it turn the car off take some model paint once you locate the mark and just paint it white). you will see a range of numbers, the gun will flash a light while you have it aimed at the crank pulley the white line will flash showing where the timing is set. Based off where it is, you want to either slowly adjust the disty either back towards the firewall, or forward towards the front of the car. this adjust the timing and is reason you need 2 people (one monitors the timing while the other adjusts it). Once you have it set to 10 degrees from top dead center, bolt the disty back up, remeber to keep watching the timing because it could be off from when you bolt the disty back up. Once you have the disty bolted up and the timing is still showing 10 degrees from top dead center, go ahead and turn the car off, remove the car from diagnostic "limp" mode by removing the wire. From then go ahead and crank the car up and check the timing again, to just confirm its properly set. And thats it, now others have told me your soposed to reset your ecu after doing it, but the numerous times i've done my timing i have never reset the ecu and never had a problem.

hgallegos915 · Post by **hgallegos915** » April 18th, 2007, 4:32 pm

I meant the inner strap for the original hei, even if you remove the G wire.. it still interferes. Disable the ignitor from the inside of your disty.