Motor swap...
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Motor swap...
How many of you guys here have swapped your k8 motors for the KlZE. or probe gt's?? escort gt's?
I've heard the probe gt is a direct bolt-in, is this correct?? i would like to use my same motor mounts, hose hook-ups, vaum lines, wiring and everything, even the trans. So what would i have to do to swap this out with the porbe gt motor?
Also for the KlZE i have to change out the trans, intake manifold, ecu?, anything else?
which one is the simplest and cheapest to do?
I've heard the probe gt is a direct bolt-in, is this correct?? i would like to use my same motor mounts, hose hook-ups, vaum lines, wiring and everything, even the trans. So what would i have to do to swap this out with the porbe gt motor?
Also for the KlZE i have to change out the trans, intake manifold, ecu?, anything else?
which one is the simplest and cheapest to do?
Last edited by wvurubberducky on April 1st, 2007, 7:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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yes i know about the search, and i have read up on the KLZE, i am more towards the probe gt but was hoping i could get some info from some ppl.
I know the curved neck klze is the best option and you have watch for the klde look alikes.
i will use search again but i can't find ewhat i'm looking for word for word, and it's simplier to understand for me by ppl just saying what they had to do when they swapped out their motors.
price ranges help also and if anyone has a motor for sale.
I know the curved neck klze is the best option and you have watch for the klde look alikes.
i will use search again but i can't find ewhat i'm looking for word for word, and it's simplier to understand for me by ppl just saying what they had to do when they swapped out their motors.
price ranges help also and if anyone has a motor for sale.
- solo_ryder
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Swapping the ZE into a PGT and a MX3 is not really any different... Only the fact that you can use the straight neck in the PGT/MX6 is the only real difference I see here. There are a few things that you may need to change when swapping them into either car.
Stiff like the coolant temp sensor, knock sensor, PS sensor etc. (in most cases) and proly the disty/alternator (although they can be made to work). You would also want to use a ZE ecu or a chipped k8 ecu and look into running the proper KL manifold.
Stiff like the coolant temp sensor, knock sensor, PS sensor etc. (in most cases) and proly the disty/alternator (although they can be made to work). You would also want to use a ZE ecu or a chipped k8 ecu and look into running the proper KL manifold.
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You will love your car even more to death if u go ze! trust me.
-hec
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
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- Nd4SpdSe
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There's no need to change any of that. Sensors are all the same, the only diff is if you don't have the 3rd coolant sensor, than the ECU keeps the ran fan runing all the time, but for all sensors and external components, everything bolts in like stock and are the same for all motors.solo_ryder wrote:Stiff like the coolant temp sensor, knock sensor, PS sensor etc. (in most cases) and proly the disty/alternator (although they can be made to work). You would also want to use a ZE ecu or a chipped k8 ecu and look into running the proper KL manifold.
Curved neck is the easiest route. You can even use your stock intake system. You can get a straight neck, but that requires modification to fit, but you could ask well use your K8 IM until you source a curved neck IM. As for alternator, your 90amp will work no problem. Earlier millenia's had a 110amp. You can wire that one up (required a 3rd wire wired to an ignition sourse), but no problem using your stock on, bolt on like stock.So if i go with the ze i am going to have to find a curved neck, millinea alternator/ distributor/wires?? different ecu, temp and knock sensor than on my k8 now?
Disty and wires, use the disty from your K8. ZE's can some with one that requires an external coil, but it doesn't come with the coil, unless you get a coil (or keep it until you do an external coil mod). But regardless, you can use your K8 disty, I did. Wires, You can use your K8 wires, use the wires onthe new ZE, or get new set for either, they both work, but the KL wires are longer I believe. ECU, yes, you need a new ECU and/or VAF for it to run efficiently. You can keep your VAF, but run a KLZE KL31 or KL36 ECU, if you want to run a KLDE ECU, ideally you want a KLDE VAF as well, or just get an/your ECU reprogrammed with a Probinator to match whatever components you decide on using. Temp and knock sensor, I belive they are the same, just use the ones that come with the motor unless you have issues. Couldn't hurt to do some prevantative maintenance, but odds are the ones in the motor will be working, but you can switch them over, since you know the ones in the K8 are good. I think my knock sensor is from my K8, been too long (over 3 years now), but i know my temp sensor is from my K8.
Absolute minimum: Just the engine
Minimum: KLDE ECU & VAF, KLZE ECU & K8 VAF or rechipped Probinator ECU (otherwise the car will run rich, loose fuel economy and not run as efficient, ie, power)
Recommended mininum:ECU/VAF and upgraded clutch (stock clutch *may* hold up, but it's not designed for 165tq. I know it slips on a ZE, but either way it still works)
Highly Recommended: ECU/VAF and Upgraded Clutch. Replaced the waterpump, belts & pullies, and any other preventative maintenance while the motor is out.
1992 Mazda Mx-3 GSR - 2.5L KLZE : Award Winning Show Car & Race Car ['02-'09] (Retired)
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
2001 Nissan Frontier SE - The Frontrailer : Expedition/Off-Road Trailer Project
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
2001 Nissan Frontier SE - The Frontrailer : Expedition/Off-Road Trailer Project
- solo_ryder
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I had to do this on both ze's I had, the PS plugs were opposite so they did not match, I had to add the 3rd coolant sensor (of course) On my latest ZE I had to mod the knock sensor because that was not the same. I also had to add crank shaft sensors to both motors as there was a block off plate there.Nd4SpdSe wrote:There's no need to change any of that. Sensors are all the same, the only diff is if you don't have the 3rd coolant sensor, than the ECU keeps the ran fan runing all the time, but for all sensors and external components, everything bolts in like stock and are the same for all motors.solo_ryder wrote:Stiff like the coolant temp sensor, knock sensor, PS sensor etc. (in most cases) and proly the disty/alternator (although they can be made to work). You would also want to use a ZE ecu or a chipped k8 ecu and look into running the proper KL manifold.
- Nd4SpdSe
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News to me...solo_ryder wrote:I had to do this on both ze's I had, the PS plugs were opposite so they did not match. On my latest ZE I had to mod the knock sensor because that was not the same. I also had to add crank shaft sensors to both motors as there was a block off plate there.
1992 Mazda Mx-3 GSR - 2.5L KLZE : Award Winning Show Car & Race Car ['02-'09] (Retired)
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
2001 Nissan Frontier SE - The Frontrailer : Expedition/Off-Road Trailer Project
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
2001 Nissan Frontier SE - The Frontrailer : Expedition/Off-Road Trailer Project
- PATDIESEL
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Swapping the coolant neck from the K8 is the easiest way to get the 3rd coolant temp sensor. The k8 disty will needto be used unless you want to rewire for a ZE disty (which would need an external coil). The crank sensor should be on the ZE already. (sounds like solo must have gotten a OBDII ZE and that is why he had different plugs and was missing a few sensors). However, most ZEs are OBDI and should be really easy. The knock sensor on the ZE hooks up on the drivers side of the motor, but the MX-3 engine harness has the plug on the passanger side. So you will need to take the manifold off (most likely have to do this to swap on the new manifold anyway) and move the knock sensor plug over to the passanger side. The knock sensor is in the middle of the head so the wire will reach either side. As for the intake mannifold, yes, you have to have a curved neck ZE or a Millinea intake. However, if you are in a money pinch the K8 intake will work, it will just restrict the air coming into the motor and you will get a few less HP. You can use the MX-3 manual trans on a ZE.
Please do not anyone contradict me. I know all of this to be 100% accurate. Especially the HP part (using a K8 intake on a ZE). A MOCA member used one on his ZE and dynoed it. The difference in power between his and my dyno was about 5 whp. He changed the striaght neck intake ZE with the K8 intake for a curved neck ZE and gained about 4 whp.
You will need to use a remapped ECU or ZE ECU for the ZE. Different ECUs will work, but the motor will run like crap, eat gas, and probably not pass emisions.
Other than the above mentioned it is a bolt in process.
Please do not anyone contradict me. I know all of this to be 100% accurate. Especially the HP part (using a K8 intake on a ZE). A MOCA member used one on his ZE and dynoed it. The difference in power between his and my dyno was about 5 whp. He changed the striaght neck intake ZE with the K8 intake for a curved neck ZE and gained about 4 whp.
You will need to use a remapped ECU or ZE ECU for the ZE. Different ECUs will work, but the motor will run like crap, eat gas, and probably not pass emisions.
Other than the above mentioned it is a bolt in process.
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
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probe gt switch....
What all must be done to put in the probe gt motor? There is one of these locally and i would prob go with it.
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Found a motor!?!??!
So a local towing company that i know has a 1993 mazda 626 with a v6 in it. It has 140,xxx miles on it and a auto tranny in it. they told me $350 for the motor and they would take it out. This will fit in my 1992 mx-3 gs correct?? what all am i going to have to tell them to keep on the motor? they should keep the alternator and all of the belts also? anything else?
Last edited by wvurubberducky on April 4th, 2007, 3:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
- solo_ryder
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