Short shifter installed!!! Oh man it feels good playing with it. But its a little harder to shift than before. But I guess it's because of the laws of leverage. It's really nice but I have to get used to it. It's a liitle hard to tell which gear Im in unless I move it to neutral. But still good overall.
Thanks "2fazed" for selling me this nice Pacesetter Short shifter eventhough you didn't include the bushing. I improvised the mazda busing to fit which I guess would last 2 years atleast.
Thanks for all the help guys especially to "grants" who I wanna crack his head open right now.hehehe! (just kiddin about crakin your head!)
1992 Mazda MX-3 GS 5 speed
Reverse glow gauge, Custom CAI, Cross drilled rotors. Toucan front strut tower bar, Custom circular ground wires, Custom exhaust w/ stainless oval dual tip muffler, Custom blue turn indicator lights on gauge panel and switches, performance steering wheel, Pacesetter short shifter
Haha I really like the feel of the short shifter. And its SO easy to do
Only thing is you get used to the improvement very quickly and think "hmm, maybe I can shorten it a bit more" But I suppose you can - the Pacesetter is the adjustable one right? Do you know how far you went compared to stock?
If you dont feel like answering my question then just shut up. That would be better
I did didn't I?
Use multigrips. They worked perfectly when I had that problem.
“You’ll find, that the only thing you can do easily is be wrong, and that’s hardly worth the effort.”
Yup its adjustable. I belive I shortened mine around 1.5-1.8 inches cant really tell coz i cut my stock shifter before.. It was short but still large gaps between gears.LOL
Its possible to shorten it by 2" but the shifter link is going to hit the cat converter when shifting on second gear...
Shifting is really nice... Its like shifting on a car with eletronic shift (like on some new mazda ATX like mazda6) expect a lot harder.
1992 Mazda MX-3 GS 5 speed
Reverse glow gauge, Custom CAI, Cross drilled rotors. Toucan front strut tower bar, Custom circular ground wires, Custom exhaust w/ stainless oval dual tip muffler, Custom blue turn indicator lights on gauge panel and switches, performance steering wheel, Pacesetter short shifter
I installed my shortshifter (non adjustable) yesterday, and unfortunately it is too long hitting my exhause pipe. Since my car is lowered, I hade to mount my exhaust system higher to prevent it from hitting road bumps.
It felt so nice with it mounted.
den wrote:I got a short shifter and I wanted to install it. So I crawled under the car, Remove the nut on the stock shifter rod's lower end. The nut came off but the damn bolt is stucked. It turns if I turn it with a wrech but it just wont come off. I already sprayed it with some WD40. What's with that stupid bolt? Why does it not want to come off? Any suggestion from those who had the same promblem as this.
Well, I guess I'm going to have a hell of a time getting this off then. I just got a new bolt, nut and bushing kit from SRD to replace this bolt and rivet and I'm thinking I have to go to a mechanic to get this done cause that rivet's gonna have to get chiseled or grinded off. Any other suggestions? Can I remove the whole assembly from that nut to make it easier or is that a bad idea?
Jay72 wrote:Well, I guess I'm going to have a hell of a time getting this off then. I just got a new bolt, nut and bushing kit from SRD to replace this bolt and rivet and I'm thinking I have to go to a mechanic to get this done cause that rivet's gonna have to get chiseled or grinded off. Any other suggestions? Can I remove the whole assembly from that nut to make it easier or is that a bad idea?
i grinded mine off, not that difficult to do. i actually pulled the entire shifter linkage out afterward and sanded it down and resprayed it with rockerguard paint. looks new now (almost).
So, I know it's a week later but, I didn't get that rivet off. I'm working from underneath jack stands and I don't have much freedom in movement under there. Anyway, the only way I can get to freely grind off that rivet is to remove the linkage from the tranny(?) by removing the bolt to the right of the "3rd link" rivet. Actually, according to Luc from SRD, the "front" bushings that I got from him is supposed to be used with that bolt to the right of the circled area. Problem is, I can't get it off. You can't see it in this pic but, one of the edges of the top of the bolt is right up against the link so I can't get the socket to fit over the bolt. Can I tap the bolt out or would that cause damage to the tranny (or whatever that boot part is called)? Suggestions? I know it's possible because Macen had his removed fro that same spot in his website.
Thanks,
Jay
Last edited by Jay72 on April 22nd, 2006, 4:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
the top of that bolt is just flat, so you cant get a socket on there. you have to push it up from the bottom. if that doesn't work, under that rubber boot in the pic there is an easier way to disconnect the linkage from the tranny. can't remember if it's a bolt or what, but it's much easier to do, then you can work on getting the rivet and other bolt out easier once the linkage is out from under the car.
ovendenk wrote:the top of that bolt is just flat, so you cant get a socket on there. you have to push it up from the bottom. if that doesn't work, under that rubber boot in the pic there is an easier way to disconnect the linkage from the tranny. can't remember if it's a bolt or what, but it's much easier to do, then you can work on getting the rivet and other bolt out easier once the linkage is out from under the car.
That's what I was saying. It's that bolt that I'm having a problem with. I already know that rivet has to be grinded off.
Thanks, anyway.
ok jay. you have 2 options of removing the linkage from the tranny. one, the bolt srd makes bushings for which can be seen in that pic (12mm wrench). two, pull back the rubber boot and you'll see another smaller bolt that is usually much easier to remove. if you can't get either one, then i don't know what else to suggest.
after you get the linkage out from under the car, getting that riveted "3rd link" out is a lot easier.
Ah ha! Now we're talking. I never even thought of pulling that boot back. I'm no mechanic so I'm just afraid of touching the tranny linkage diectly. I'll have to try this next week on my off days. Thanks alot.